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T Reed

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About T Reed

  • Birthday 09/22/1948

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  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Occupation
    Small Biz owner
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    treed
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    treed

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  1. Matt D, No. Only depressing the shell feed allows the bolt to come forward. I have played with it a bit to determine exactly when it happens. Pulling the bolt rearward just short of it's maximum travel, then releasing it forward about a quarter inch causes the shell feed to pop up. If I pull the bolt all the way rearward, it functions normally.
  2. I use Duck Commander calls. A long range hailer, old raspy and a standard. Awsome to watch the ducks turn around and head into my spread after I use the hail call. I also use a very old motion decoy, not a spinner, to get their attention.
  3. NJgunner, I use breakfree because that is what Binelli CS told me to use. Just thoroughly cleaned it before a duck hunt this last weekend. I called them about this issue and they want me to send the gun in. Thanks for the assistance. I will send it in in January, after the seasons close here.
  4. The shell feed is all the way UP. I have to reach into the chamber and push it down to get the bolt to come forward. I'm in La Crosse. Functions perfectly once loaded and fired.
  5. Ocassionally, when I pull the bolt rearward to the locked position as when inserting a shell, it remains locked. Pushing in the release button does nothing, no matter the force used. I need to play with the shell feed mechanism to get it to release. Is there a defect with my gun or is it some form of operator error? Once it releases, it functions normally untill the next jam. Happens quite often when I break it down for cleaning and reassemble. Sticks like this at the first cycle of the bolt then operates normally after I free it up.
  6. Maybe your comment is tongue in cheek but who said anything about poor customer service except you mudhen? I was able to reach them proptly and they answered my questions accurately and in great detail. I am satisfied with their information. This isn't about questioning your knowledge, it's about getting information out to new owners when it is not covered in the owners manual. There have been numerous posts in the Benelli forums and other forums on cycling issues and cleaning of the recoil assembly is often suggested as a remedy. We should know how to do it when required.
  7. Just got off the phone with Benelli cust service. They are telling me that BOTH ends of the recoil spring tube are secured with loctite. They do not recommend disassembly of the tube unless cycling issues are encountered. If cycling issues are encountered AND the "retaining nut bolt" does not come off readily, then it is appropriate to use heat "SPARINGLY" untill the loctite is softened enough for the retaining nut bolt to be removed. She cautioned me that too much heat can damage the nylon or plastic insert depicted above. I used a heat gun so I could control the temperature applied. Both cust service reps I talked to recommended using loctite to re-install the retaining nut bolt. I recommended useing blue loctite in my earlier post because it is designed for applications where disassembly of the parts will be required at some future date. As we are reminded in the header upon entering this forum, it is not a conduit to customer service, so do your own research, as your mileage may vary. I am just relaying the information I got from them. Thank you.
  8. Benelli cust service told me it was held on by loctite and to use heat to free it. My gunsmith told me to use heat to free it. The gunsmith also told me that on some of the Benelli's he worked on the tube itself will detach before the retaining nut screw frees up if heat is not used. I cranked on the retaining nut screw with a great deal of pressure without success before I called Benelli cust service. You guys may be right though. Heat would also cause the retaining lock ring to soften enough to allow the locking nut screw to loosen. I do not know how long this gun sat on the shelf so it is difficult with our limited sample to determine Benelli's method of securing all of the retaing nut screws out there. I believe I have a 2006 model, but don't know for sure. What is needed is for Benelli to publish definitive information on the issue. Maybe they have and I just don't know where to find it. Like: serial numbers a through c use this defined method and serial numbers d through e use this alternative defined method. I would like to know for sure so I know how to deal with the issue in the future. Other owners new to Benelli autos probably would also. I will once again call cust service and ask for this information as it applies to the entire run of this model and post the results here. Thanks.
  9. Got a new SBE II comfortech a couple of weeks ago. Sold a Nova and some other stuff to get it - absolutely the best shotgun I have ever had in my hands. Exceptionally simple engineering, functioned perfectly out of the box. Just finished break in with heavy 3" #1's and #3's; brutal recoil after two boxes. Shot a couple of boxes of 2 3/4" 1-1/8 oz cheapies also and the recoil was minimal. After shooting the heavy stuff it felt like shooting a small caliber rifle. Cleaning notes: had trouble getting the recoil sping free. Researched on here and there is a little mis-information. It is not covered in the owners manual. The stock is held on with a nyloc nut. The bolt that holds the recoil spring in it's tube is held on with loctite. Probably red loctight which is more for permanent bonds. (I read a post that claimed the recoil spring was held in by a nyloc type bolt/nut combo, just like the nut that installs the stock itself.) Per cust serv and my dealer who is also a gunsmith, this is not true. Heat is required to loosen it. That info has been posted here before, I just wanted to clarify it again for other newbies. If you use just force without heat, the recoil tube may come loose from the receiver. I used blue loctite to re-install it, so it will be easier to get off the next time I need to clean the spring mechanism. Cleaning products: Benelli cust serv recommended using Breakfree CLP to clean. For lube they recommended (in this order) Benelli oil, Militec oil or Breakfree CLP. I think something stronger may be needed to get the carbon residue out of places like the outside of the choke tube. My choke tube worked free shooting the heavy stuff so it got a lot of fouling. On to the pattern board from here.
  10. Sorry to drag up an old post, but I am now confused. I called cust. service today on this issue because I cannot get the bolt off from the bottom of the recoil tube to clean the spring and plunger. (SBE II). Cust. serv. said to apply a little heat. If it is indeed a nyloc type threaded bolt that goes into the bottom of the recoil spring tube, this could cause damage to it. Do all SBE II's have a nyloc bolt, and is it standard thread? (CCW to loosen)
  11. T Reed

    Used SBE pricing

    Mudhen, I have been looking for an SBE II-26" for a couple of months. Best price I find is $1235 on gunbroker (Max4). Can't find any matt under 1200.00. Please tell me where you are finding $1099????? Thanks.
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