StrangerDanger

It will wear in as seasam said. You'll see the receiver extension showing some brunishing as the finish wears down. Hold the button in while moving the stock, it seems to help some.

The thorntail would be a big improvement over the LaRue or factory thumb screw mount. Another issue I had was mainly due to my truckasaurus hands was how the rail would crowd my hand placement. I'm told that the gen2 and gen3 weigh even more than the gen1.

I hear ya. I've had to back peddle on a bunch of purchases over the years. The T1 is a good choice for an optic. I just got mine back from painting this week. The X300 Ultra is the one you want. They're cheap and 500 lumens. Careful when using the momentary activation when you're actually shooting. The switch can jam your thumb. The same occurs with the Scout series. One thing I didn't like with the SideArmor was how far the weapon light hangs away from the rail. What I would recommend trying is take the M4 out stripped down near stock and compare how it handles and shoots between the two different weight profiles.

Did you look at he Velcro 3gunner side saddle? They weigh nothing when shells are removed. A true spec top rail is a good choice if you're going to mount something. I like the lightweight carriercomp of the FFT copy. Mounting a light is tricky. I've struggled with it on the m4 for 9 years. I've thought about building some of the mounts I made to sell, but I wasn't really sure if anyone was interested. I sent the set I made off this morning to be professionally Cerakoted so they will look better! Pay close attention to how much weight you are slapping on the M4. It's easy to turn it into an overweight pig.

A strap wrench might give you more leverage without risking damage to your stock.

Another option would be to put a small bead of black silicon in the hole. If the holes are desired at some point, you could easily dig it out.

Use locktite on the five receiver threads, and the two Allen head screws that clamp to the barrel. You shouldn't put locktite on the knob screw. The knob screw is what you loosen to remove the barrel from the receiver/top rail. When you reinstall, you tighten that knob back down to support the front of the SideArmor rail. Check the knob periodically when shooting, my old SideArmor rail had a tendency to shoot loose.

The barrel is probably fine. At worst, there is a small mark where the screw made contact. The mark would be concealed when installed anyway. You should be torquing the rail screws to 16-18 inch pounds. You want to tighten them like you do the lug nuts on a car. Don't just crank one down and move on. Put each one in loose, the. Start snugging them up. Blue locktite is recommended. I would also wire brush the fasteners clean, then prep them and the receiver with locktite primer. Guessing at the torque needed is dangerous. Either it will be too loose and shoot loose, or you risk stripping the fine aluminum threads. You won't be happy if you strip the threads. You'll have to find a gunsmith to install helicoils. Those SideArmor rails put a lot of weight and strain on those five finely threaded holes. They get shocked each time you fire the weapon since it is bound to the barrel. If you could watch the weapon fire in slow motion, you'd see the entire top rail flex. What did you add the SideArmor rail for anyway?

No filing of screws. Check your factory rail. It probably has the washers stuck in it.

Your warranty is fine. Why the barrel won't pull free is odd. I assume you have take. Off the magazine cap and loosened the knob on the front of the SideArmor rail. I'm wondering if the fasteners holding the rail to the receiver are installed correctly? If the screws are too long, and entering the barrel, they could be binding the barrel. Try backing the screws out several turns each, and try to pull the barrel. Look at the Sidearmor instructions and see if you're supposed to use the washers from the factory rail.

Hopefully they stick to a standard upper specs. Not a big fan of the proprietary trigger/hammer pins on their lower. I packed up another shipment for Controlled Chaos tonight. I didn't take a picture of how the handguards looked prior to boxing them up, but they look significantly better than the last offering. They should look good in Graphite Black with Burnt Bronze inlay in the recessed areas of the handguards.

Correct. Assuming you're looking at the stock from the butt pad.

Sucks. I keep forgetting to place an order with them for those damn cups. i spent about an hour and a half last night tweaking my handguards. I stripped the rubberized paint off and worked on sanding the mount area with various grits of sand paper and a sanding block. It really smoothed out the edges and profiled the hump quite nicely. I touched bases with Controlled Chaos, and planned to send the handguards in for Cerakoting. The handguards will be painted Graphite Black inside and out to mask my work area. Then, they are going to paint the recessed vertical grooves Burnt Bronze. I figured that would break up the black some. I'm sending the plastic pistol grip core to be painted Burnt bronze. The magazine cap and the cheek rest of the collapsible stock are being sent as well. I am having them painted graphite black so they match the handguards. For cosmetics, I opted to send the rear handguard hanger to be painted in burnt Bronze. Theyre painting two more Aimpoints for me like the others. I am also sending the small plastic plates that go on the very back of the Surefire X300 Ultra between the rocker switch to be painted in burnt Bronze. I disassembled four Troy Industries flip up iron sights and sent the bases along with the mounting nut to be painted burnt Bronze. I left the flip up portion black to go with the two toned look. Plus you canno disassemble the rear sights aperture, so that would be a nightmare to tape. The sights come apart a lot easier than I expected. I was surprised to find that the front and rear sight housing is identical. Only the flipping portion is different. I'm sending my 9mm AR15's PWS pistol receiver extension to have it painted in Burnt Bronze. I finally found a way to peal the foam cheek rest off without damaging the foam. I thought it was glued on.

I hadn't heard about the rail. I'll be surprise if it is lighter than a NSR. I guess it depends on if they go with a quad rail or a tube design. I was thinking about building a super light 22lr rifle. Something I can actually afford to shoot. Drop in one of those Taccom3g 14 ounce barrels. I'm avoiding it since I'm supposed to be saving cash for a house.

I looked around on McMaster-Carr and Fastenal, but didn't see much that would work for the .75mm thread pitch. It's kind of an odd ball size. The closest I found was 6mm in length, which is kind of long for your needs. They'd need to be ground to the length you need. Since there is no lip on a set screw to bottom against, you'd have to lock them in place with a threadlocker. http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=m32hxp

Threadlocker isn't likely since the pistol grip stock attaches via the stock retention screw at the bottom of the receiver extension. Someone just likely hulked it on. Be careful using the vice. I would assemble the weapon so that the bolt carrier and the barrel are installed. This will add rigidity to the receiver. Just pull the trigger group. I would clamp the receiver in the vice upside down below the rear sight. You don't want to squeeze the receiver very hard in the vice. The aluminum will deform under pressure. You want it tight enough so it doesn't move and damage your finish. Set it so you can push on the pistol grip counter clockwise to loosen the stock. The ability to lean against the grip will help apply enough torque to loosen it. You can also try using a rubber mallet. Whack the pistol grip. Put a rag or a towel over the grip to prevent the rubber from the mallet from transferring to your weapon.

Leverage is your friend. With the trigger group removed, it will unscrew with enough leverage. A padded vice can be used or maybe solicit a friend to assist. Try twisting from the bottom of the pistol grip to maximize your leverage.

There are quite a few out there actually. They're easier to strip than steel if you're using a barrel nut with teeth on it. The NSR nut wouldn't suffer such a fate due to its design. Making one would not be fun. Tapping all those threaded holes would be a superbitch. The stock nut weighs 3.1 ounces. An aluminum would be roughly 1.6 - 1.9 ounces. Not a huge benefit, but when you're chasing ounces, they add up to pounds. I've been looking at buying a few Magnesium billet lowers lately. They have a lot of potential to scalp off 3 - 5 ounces depending on your current lower.

I've been trying to think of a plan to make an aluminum barrel nut for the NSR. The swap would probably cut 1.5 - 2.0 ounces off of an already super lightweight rail system.

Going through the main website worked. Thanks!

Anyone else having trouble displaying the forum on their mobile device? The forum no longer works on my eyephone5 or my eyepad4. The site redirects to a mobile display version and goes to a page that cannot be found. This occurs in the Safari browser. I haven't tried to download another browser yet. This is a recent change.

Thought these were interesting. The FDE Scout Light from Surefire is pretty similar to the Burnt Bronze. I prefer the Burnt Bronze since it covers over all the markings and has a dull matte finish. The NSR is my favorite rail system out there. It's incredibly comfortable to hold. It should nice painted in Burnt Bronze with black plastic handguards.

All of the receiver markings will be done in black lacquer.

Thanks! It's lighter than I had anticipated. It is nearly identical to my FDE color Surefire M600C Scout Light. It matches my FDE VCAS sling pretty close too. It's closer to FDE than I had expected. This should work out well, since my LMT MRP is being done, but it has FDE furniture on it. This is being done in the same finish. Along with Nickel Boron internals:

I'm liking the contrast and the subdued markings. Some standard black models were added for contrast.