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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/02/1976

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  • Biography
    Born and raised in Oklahoma. Hunting and fishing are a way of life.
  • Location
    Broken Arrow Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, and family.
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  1. A great Kimber 1911 right out of the case for concealed carry is the model called the Kimber CDP. It comes from their Custom Shop which have a little tighter tilerances than their standard production models. It is 100% designed for conceal carry. It has an aluminum frame which makes the weapon lighter, tritium night sights, and all of the edges have been smooth and rounded to reduce snag when drawing the weapon. They also have the Kimber Covert which have all the same features as the CDP but also incorporate Crimson Trace laser grips. All 3 can be had in 5", 4" Pro, and 3" Ultra lengths. The C
  2. It's hard to beat a 1911 .45 especially for concealed carry. They are thinner than most auto's and have placing bad guys underground for many years. Kimbers are great. Look at the Ultra sized models are especially good for concealed carry. 1911's only hold 9 rounds at most but the .45 is like hitting someone with an 18 wheeler. If capacity is something you crave the Springfield XD's are 14+1 of .45. If you can't tell I'm a little partial to .45's. It all boils down to two things. Price and what fits you best. A lot like deciding on which Benelli to purchase.
  3. The quick explanation as to why the mag tube does not feed when you manually cycle the bolt is a feature integrated in the shotgun. This allows you to replace the shell in the chamber quickly in case you need to. Say you want to switch to a 3 1/2 Black Cloud to shoot a Canadian goose you whould not have to empty the entire gun. You will just have to get used to the "safer" way of unloading the gun by pressing the shell detent on the inside of the loading ramp and catching the shells as they come out of the bottom. Safer because you will only have the origional round in the chamber and not the
  4. Thanks creeper! After reading further it appears that it also has an auto brightness adjustment built in. That will be a nice addition. The main reason I want to be able to remove it easily is in case of rain and just in case it doesn't fit in the hard case. I guess I could take a Dremel Tool to the gun case to help it fit. I'm thinking about taking the plunge next week. I'm a big fan of holographic optics.
  5. I'm thinking about buying a Burris Speedbead for mt SBE II. Do any of you have one? Is it worth the price?Just wondering what the rest of you have experienced. I see that the mount replaces the stock shim but I am curious if the optic is removeable in case of rain or whatever reason I would want to remove it without removing the stock and shim. Any info and experiences you have would be appreciated.
  6. If you really want to get rid of carbon try Corrosion X. I have the Slip 2000 carbon cutter and Slip 2000 CLP. I like them both. The Slip 2000 carbon cutter I got came in a jar with a tray you can lower the parts into. Works great on AR-15 bolts when you soak it for a couple of hours. I just posted what folks would suggest I use on a camo SBE II because I am afraid that any of these 3 products would strip the finish. All 3 seemed ok on the phosfate finish of an AR-15.
  7. Hey folks I could use a little advice before I mess something up. I recently purchased a SBE II in Realtree apg. I was just curious if I should be worried when it comes time to clean the exterior of the shotgun. I would hate to use a cleaner that would cause the camo to lighten or even start to peel off. What are your suggestions for exterior clean up? I am a big time AR-15 and Kimber owner and use Corrosion X for carbon build up and receiver clean up. The other is Slip 2000 for all other cleaning. I'm pretty sure the Corrosion X would strip the camo finish on my newest baby. Thanks in a
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