jed1894

Well, I think I'm giving up on this problem and will send the gun to Benelli after Christmas. While trying to change out the carrier latch, I bent/opened the pin trying to punch it out (it actually got stuck and would not move any further). I also scratched my gun around the pin hole trying to pull this off. The pin is hollow and I guess my punch went inside the hollow part and widen it out a bit. I don't think I can go any further without damaging the gun. The problem is either the carrier latch or the receiver is a tad out of tolerance. Thanks for all the help.....anyone having a similar problem (shell stuck on carrier), take a look and see if it's wedged like mine. You'll be able to see the wear/indention on the inside of the receiver. jed

I'm not sure how to post like you did. Can you give me quick instructions.....better yet, why don't I just email them to you. PM email address. Another thing, I may have mucked something up trying to the carrier latch pin out. I didn't have the best punch in the world, but it is stuck coming out of the bottom. My punch wasn't long enough I guess. So, I'll have to wait until I get a better punch to get the pin out. I stopped before I really screwed it up. Is there a trick? jed

I forgot to add: I have very detailed photographs of the jam if any one is interested. jed

Well, after polishing, oiling, examining every compenent, following instructions from agm65ccip, I DID NOT fix the problem. The action on the gun is smooth. HOWEVER, I now know what it wrong with the gun: On one of the jams today I took about 15 minutes to examine and photograph the jam. I have always wondered why it on jammed on the 3rd round. Now I know. Here's what I discovered: 1. The jammed round only occurs on the 3rd round. Unlike what I had been told by someone else on another board, the carrier latch is in a different position when a round is still in the magazine. When the magazine is empty (as with my jam), the carrier latch has more pressure in the rear section (toward the butt of the gun). When a round is still in the magazine, the pressure is equal because the carrier latch is holding a shell in the tube. 2. When my jam occurs, I have discovered that the shell base (brass end) is wedged between the wall of the receiver and the carrier latch. The shell will not move unless I reach and unwedge it. However, it will release and load if I push up on the carrier latch or hit the bolt release button (which moves the carrier away from the shell). The front end also appears to be wedged with the front section of the carrier latch but I don't think that part is wedged so much that it would not release. The back part is where the wedge is occurring. agm65ccip first brought this to my attention as a possible cause, but I had never really noticed the wedge. 3. It depends on the shell if I get the wedge. Some of my shells tolerences are wedgeable. Some are a tad smaller and will not wedge. 4. A cure for this (I tested this), is to oil the exact area where the wedge is occurring. I oiled the carrier wall and carrier latch in the exact place of the wedge and my problem seemed to go away (no more jams---only shot a few after that). 5. So, I either have a gun out of tolerance, carrier latch is defective or out of tolerance, need more break-in time with the gun, or a weak recoil spring. Note: I have not replaced the carrier latch. I wanted to test the polishing and oiling first. I would think putting a new carrier latch spring in would put more pressure on the carrier latch. Who knows? 6. I have wear marks on the receiver wall (where wedge occurs). So, it is tight in the this area. To recap, the cause of my problem is when the shell wedges between the carrier latch and the receiver wall. Heavy oil in the this area seems to help (I haven't tested this extensively yet). The bolt is back and locked. I can press the bolt release button and/or the push up on the carrier and it will chamber. So, next step is to change out the carrier latch, I guess, or keep that area oiled. Or maybe a stronger recoil spring is the cure. Should I try to weaken the carrier latch spring (since I have an extra one) to put less pressure on the carrier latch? Thanks in advance. jed

Another member also sent some great information about polishing the areas discussed by above. Very good idea. I'm in the process of that now.....a good polishing will also probably get any burr that may otherwise be hidden. jed

Thanks again. Yes, I've cleaned the recoil tube and spring. It won't hurt to do it again though. I think I'll oil some more as you suggested and give it a good test run through X-mas holidays. It may be, in my situation as least, that I need to add more oil to certain places. On another note, the new trigger assy has helped matters. When I shot it the other day, it did not jam as much. I'll give you an update after I shoot it.....thanks again for your help. jed

One other question regarding the carrier latch. Wouldn't the new one have more spring pressure? The only thing that puts the carrier latch in contact with the trigger assy would be that spring pushing it......???? jed

Outstanding! agm65ccip, you are the man! Great photos and directions. I did what you suggested and I understand perfectly. Everything looks like it should, but here's couple questions that could solve the problem: 1. If I'm getting resistance (bolt hesitates), does this mean my recoil spring may be too weak? The gun is only 3 years old. 2. Or could it be that more lubrication is needed on the parts you pointed out? 3. Could it be that the tolerances on my gun are tighter than normal? I can't say that I've ever oiled those areas with much attention. I generally spray, clean, blow off and lightly coat the entire trigger assy. I generally clean the bolt and wipe with oily rag afterwards. After following your instructions, I went ahead and oiled the areas you mentioned. I also oiled the bottom side of the bolt and every place that the bolt would contact the trigger assy. I put it back together. It felt better. It seemed to slide easier. I could not recreate the problem as before. I guess the true test will be in an actual shooting situation, which will be on Dec 23. What do you think? Thanks again for your pictures and information. jed

Outstanding! agm65ccip, you are the man! Great photos and directions. I did what you suggested and I understand perfectly. Everything looks like it should, but here's couple questions that could solve the problem: 1. If I'm getting resistance (bolt hesitates), does this mean my recoil spring may be too weak? The gun is only 3 years old. 2. Or could it be that more lubrication is needed on the parts you pointed out? 3. Could it be that the tolerances on my gun are tighter than normal? I can't say that I've ever oiled those areas with much attention. I generally spray, clean, blow off and lightly coat the entire trigger assy. I generally clean the bolt and wipe with oily rag afterwards. After following your instructions, I went ahead and oiled the areas you mentioned. I also oiled the bottom side of the bolt and every place that the bolt would contact the trigger assy. I put it back together. It felt better. It seemed to slide easier. I could not recreate the problem as before. I guess the true test will be in an actual shooting situation, which will be on Dec 23. What do you think? Thanks again for your pictures and information. jed

Funny you should mention that. I got the carrier latch and was about to attempt to change it out and noticed something: I can recreate this problem while cycling it dry. It took me about 50 times of back and forth both action, but it finally hung up with the bolt back. I tapped the carrier and it slammed shut. I did it again and in about 40 or 50 times it locked back again. I can feel it catching on something (what ever releases the carrier). The carrier and whatever it's catching is tied together somehow. While doing this, I could not tell how the carrier latch would cause this at all. I looked closely inside the gun and the clearance between the carrier and carrier latch was fine--close but fine. It was not causing the problem. So, there's my problem. This is the 2nd trigger assy, so the problem is somewhere else. Tight tolerances, maybe? Punching out the carrier latch does not appear to be an easy task so I want to make sure before I jump on that. jed

No pistol grip stock. I usually shoot 3 1/4 dram. Been doing that since new. jed

Well, the new trigger assy didn't do the trick. It's still jamming on the 3rd shot as I described above. The carrier latch arrived and it's the next thing to go in. There is something keeping the carrier/elevator from lifting the last round into the chamber. The bolt is locked back and the only way I can get it to chamber is tapping the carrier/elevator from underneath. Is it possible that the carrier latch spring is too stiff? Maybe a break-in issue still? Seems a strange since the gun is 3 years old now and I've shot it a bunch. Another thing I noticed (if I'm repeating myself, I apoligize): When pulling the bolt back and letting go while empty, I noticed that when the bolt is all the way back, it almost wants to stop. There is a slight hesitation that I can feel in the bolt handle. Something is catching it just a tad, unless this is normal. thanks, jed

Yes, that's right. Neither worked. Gun still doing the same thing. I plan on changing out the carrier latch and spring next. Just making sure I didn't miss some information. jed

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I see you said "get stuck on the carrier" as one your choices. You wouldn't happen to have a cue for that would you? jed

This is normal......or I should say mine does the same thing as you described. jed

Thanks guys.......I really appreciate the quick replies. jed

Just noticed that my bolt release button leans to the side when the bolt is locked back (like when empty). It is straight and square when forward, but cocked to the side (toward butt of gun) when the bolt is locked back. Can you guys with M2s check yours to see if looks the same or not? Thanks in advance,,,,,jed

Thanks.....

Hello guys, just getting an idea how everyone lubes the recoil spring and plunger rod on Benellis. Also, what technique are used to lube the spring? jed

Have you seen the camo M2 American that Academy Sports carries? I saw one in their flyer for around $900. However, the receiver is not camo.

I saw one at shotgunworld.com for sale. May want to check there. jed

You have no idea. Persistent is not the word. Obsessed! I just got off the phone with Benelli. I'm sure they're tired of hearing my name up there. Got a new trigger assemby coming (the whole thing intact) in case the other stuff does not work. I had to give them a credit card number until I sent the old one back. Before it's over I'll rebuild this gun. Got to give Benelli credit....they have sent everything I've asked for at no cost (gun still under warranty). jed

One other thing: If the recoil spring is not lubed and/or strong, will this keep the 3rd round from loading? Could a non-lubed or bad spring/plunger have an effect on a round loading from on top of the carrier? Reason I ask: I do not lube the recoil spring very much. I usually just wipe the plunger with an oily rag. Someone else told me to shoot some oil down the recoil tube and try that. jed

Here's something to ponder: My problem only occurs on the 3rd round. It has NEVER jammed on the 2nd shot with another round still in the tube. So, what part of the gun (carrier latch) works differently when a round is still in the mag? Since the carrier latch is still holding a round in the mag, does this stop the 2nd shot from jamming? Or is there no difference in the carrier latch position from the 2nd to 3rd shot? jed

I've tried several kinds with different amounts. I've try to run it dry; I've sprayed CLP in it like was spraying a wasp nest; I've used the oil that came with it; etc. Oiling the rails is not an issue for me. Now, oiling a particular spring/part near the carrier may be something else. I usually oil the trigger group and wipe off the excess. jed