Rezarf
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Posts
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Posts posted by Rezarf
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Got my CDM BMC-3 slot rail, I will post up a review once I can run it a bit on Saturday.
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I'd take the sling plate depending on what kind it is... can you send a pic to my email address (in your PM box).
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My M4's primary purpose is for home defense. And as far as that goes, i'm not a fan of slings. Seems too easy for it to get hung up on all the stuff one usually has in a home. YMMV.
Peace
Just another thought, you will most likely need one extra hand if not to in nearly any HD role at some point. I view a sling like a holster for the SG.
Dial 911, grab your kiddo, open a door, lock a door...
I agree that a sling could hang up on something, but I'd rather the option to sling the gun... not to mention weapon retention.
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I'd buy the Arredondo Bolt Release before I'd buy the Nordic Components one. The Arredondo has a lot more surface area to contact.
Thanks, I hadn't seen that one. I may make a slab of Carbon Fiber to mimick the GG$G one
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Not trying to rain on your parade, but Nordic Components does the same thing for $12 bucks. Its a drill and tap though... not hard, but not for a novice either.
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Search "hotwire" and "pelican" on google... you will have your answer.
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If you have an extra M1 S90 forend laying around and are willing to sell it, I'd love to hear from you.
Perhaps you installed a Surefire forend?
Any condition as long as it is functional.
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Rezarf,
You running an 8 MOA dot on the RMR Dual Illum? How to you like it? Thinking about replacing my Burris FFII. Have one (8 MOA) on an FN FNP 45 tactical and like it. I guess I could try it myself, but as the FFII is set-up and I have an RMR on back order (battery 4 MOA) I was planning to use I thought I'd just wait. Your picture has me rethinking it though. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Sorry bud, not my gun... just where I am heading for a light. I prefer irons, but if the budget allowed I would try a red dot on a scatter gun.
I painted my front sight blade orange if that counts?
I ordered a CDM because of your thread thanks, looks like a great piece of kit.I should get mine this week, I hope it lives up to my expectations. I will write up a review when it gets here.
Where is the best place to get a CDM mount and tape switch? I usually go to brownells because I get a nice discount. I have a couple of surefires a E2 Executive Elite with the LED and the G2. Ill have to check out the P60 series, thanks.Search Cree Q5 or R5 on ebay. Most of the LEDs come from there reguardless of what product they end up in. Just watch for the correct voltage rating (your G2 is 6v for instance) and then you can choose mulit-functions from there.
MOD-C, BMT clamp or MT clamp? Did you get the one with the 3 rail slots and the sling swivel?I bought the BMT 3 rail. No swivel... but I can add one later as the system is modular.
BMT clamp 3 slot no swivel, for me, mounting a x300, get swivel if you want to mont a sling there, the slot size is up to what your going to mount, both sides can have a rail, you could use the other clamps as well depending on what light your using, and position you want it, I like the structural mating of the barrel and tube, that the BMT doesPost up some pics of your setup! Sounds great.
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Chuck thats a nice group. What ammo and choke combo is that?
I have found that Federal Flight Control on a Improved Cylinder runs like a dream in my shotgun (M1).
Big Hat-
I think the same thing, loading the round from underneath seems much smoother and more natural for me. Not to mention the bolt slaming home on my hand if I can't get it out of the way fast enough. I need to get in some live fire to add to my dry training. Check out the Nordic round button as it is only $12 but will need a steady hand and drill press for installation.
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I got the DVD series for Christmas, and after watching the handgun and carbine series, I was jazzed to see what the Shotgun video was like.
Here is my simple/humble/non-gunfighter review.
First off, I did learn a lot. Since this is the Benelli forum I was stoked to see the instructors run a M1, M4 for most of the drills. Other guns covered were the Rem 870 and 1100. Mossys were touched on but not covered nearly as detailed.
The instruction is simple, clear and well documented for reference in the drills section.
I learned a lot. Now, I had NO previous shotgun training, but I feel like I know what to train for at the range and dry training at home with dummy rounds. Mainly slug change overs, combat reloads and speed reloads.
The video was fair to the warrior, competitor, and average joe HD user equally. They corrected enough of the students to get a good understanding of what to look for in your own technique to see if you are on track.
They covered patterning and zeroing very well and their importance to a combat shotgun.
It had a great section on gear, accessories, ammo, and their pro's and cons.
I was hoping they would show a few more skills in operating the shotgun such as short-sticking, or leading targets but there wasn't any.
Overall, it is worth the $35 bucks and was an entertaining, well filmed, informative video series.
Just thought some others would like to know.
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I was thinking about the dedicated Surefire forend but the LED version is really expensive. Some say its like holding onto a pringles can. I really like the stock forend on the M2 Tactical and its rock solid too.
I just sold a Surefire 617lf for my M1 with only handleing it in the house. It wiggled in every direction and made an otherwise fast gun feel bulky.
You can get a high powered LED bulb for the P60 series of surefires for nearly nothing these days and get close to 300 lumens...for about $15.
That said, I am going to run this M600c Scout with a tape switch and I just ordered a CDM mount for it as well as the Nordic ones are a little bigger and I don't think the finish matches as well. YMMV.
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When did Mossberg "jump the shark"? I can't take them seriously any more after the Roadblocker release, and now this chainsaw attachment they've just confirmed my sentiment.
I agree, they are putting out so many gimmicks... on a good gun or not, that I will not be buying from them in the future. They are getting comical in their marketing.
I know a lot of Mossbergs are on the battlefield but these tactics in marketing leave me with more of a "toy" sense than a hardened battle weapon.
Now, if you put a chainsaw handle on a Benelli... that I might go for.
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Also' date=' mentioned was a speedy wrench, can you give a little more detail to that.[/quote']
Here is what one looks like. It is basically an insert that expands to create pressure on the inside of the tube. Then you can twist it out.
I recommended the heat gun to avoid getting the barrel so hot (as with a torch) to affect the heat temper of the steel. However, another trick is to stick the barrel in the freezer and let it get nice and cold, then yank it out and hit it with the heat gun right at the choke, the thermal difference can pop the rusty bond freeing the choke (or bolt).
PB blaster... give it a shot. I have an old 76 Landcruiser that had a ton of rusted bolts on it, I have fought with more rusty bolts than I care to mention. Tap it with a chisel as well... it WILL come out.
Taking it to a good machine shop... they can get it out quick as well I bet, but at a cost.
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Sweet! Glad you gave it a good home. I went witha Mesa Tactical side saddle instead.
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visual is how I identify if I am going to use lethal force, maybe you can shoot stuff you can't see, but like I said I have not yet made it to Master Po status, unless say someone is kicking my door down and has not identified themselves as a LEO, after verbal request even then could be a fake LEO, yes maybe then in a few scenarios, but I think lights are a good thing, as well as visual identification, many hunter has been killed by someone shooting moving bushes and such
I couldn't agree more.
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Get a new gunsmith, where are you located?
I would get some good PB Blaster or other penetrating oil, and start to spray it down a few times for a week or so. I would tap and heat it up to (not too hot, a heat gun would be fine). Smack it with a nylon hammer.
Have you tried a speedy wrench, they are a fantastic design. If you have, carefully imploying a cold chisel and hammer should be able to knock it clear. Worst case scenario... you booger it up and have to chop it anyhow.
Heat, tap, drench with PB, try to knock it out with the chisel... repeat.
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well they can argue all they want, but its dark at night and I can't shoot at stuff I can't see, noise can give away your position as well they must all be ninjasThe reality isyou can shootstuff you can't see, the trouble iswhen youshoot something youdidn't properlyidentify!
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Get a high powered rifle/handgun or stay inside. I'd get the .460 S&W and carry it strapped across my chest if I were going into big bear country...
... that is- if I wasn't going to bring a .375 H&H rifle with me
I think in a life or death encounter with a big critter, it is best to bring enough gun.
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The CDM clamp looks like a good piece and should do the job nicely.
Yes, the tape switch is both constant and momentary (the round button is constant, and the longer tape switch is momentary). Allot of people argue about having a light on a gun (i.e. gives away your position) but to me it's just another tool that you don't have to use if the situation doesn't require (much like my concealed carry gun). I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it)
I have the same setup (light and switch) on my M-16 w/11” bbl, with the light mounted at 1:00 off the gas block, and it works just as well (no shadow and doesn’t illuminate the front sight).
Yeah, I was goofing off with the light mounted for the last few days with my high-tech low drag mount. I like the configuration enough to dive in head first now.
Personally, I like a light on every weapon I have. I think that having a light is always an advantage. Did I mention I really like lights too?
Here was my dry run test mount to see if I'd like the configuration...
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I have the Nordic Components clamp/mount on my M2 for my SureFire, and love it. I don't notice any weight at the bbl end, and putting it there it doesn't light up my bbl/front sight and there's no bbl shadow. 'Course my bbl is 14" so it was going to be at the bbl end no matter what. So if you have an 18"+ bbl, you don't have to put it all the way to the end. I also mounted the switch where my thumb naturally rests.
Yeah, I have decided to run the scout light setup. I love the ergo's of the factory forarm and I found this new mount I am going to try for it. I was able to sell my SF forend to fund my new light.
CDM Gear: http://www.cdmgear.com/bmt.html
I am going to try the 3 slot version. Shouldn't add much weight. I will be putting the pressure switch on my thumb as well.
Super Dak, the SF tape switch your using does both constant on and momentary correct?
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I'm doubtful he still has it for sale 17 months later. At last you're using the search function, though.
This made me chuckle
Best of luck finding the part you need.
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I have a BNIB, Surefire 617LF for a Benelli M1/M2 Super 90. This is the older P60 style head, but you can get a LED drop in for any P60 to upgrade. The new Cree Q5 bulbs will get this light up to 300 lumens for around $15.
I installed this onto my M1, and decided it wasn't for me. It hasn't left the house, been shot, it is absolutely as new with everything that came from Surefire, even the box, papers and auxillary items.
I will get picks up tomorrow. It has the constant on and off switch, as well as the pressure switch with the block out plate.
Here is a link to Surefire, however it is for the LED version, but it looks the same.
http://www.surefire.com/LED-Momentary-Constant-On-Switching-617LF
$210 shipped to your door. Paypal is fine as a gift (or +3%) or USPS Money Order.
****SPF on another board****
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Its a done deal thanks.
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Let me say I am a HUGE fan of lights on weapons. I recently bought a Surefire Forend for my M1 S90 tactical. It is a great light but the old incandesant light style. I know I can upgrade to a LED head or bulb for about $60 bucks.
However, I like the SF forend as far as ergo's go, but I don't like the fit of the forearm. It wobbles around and wiggles in nearly every direction. Nothing more than what a pump does, but after the nice Benelli stock with NO movement, I have gotten spoiled. Here is how it sits now...
Thus my decision. I just recently picked up a heavily used SF Scout light, and I am thinking of running it on a Nordic Components clamp/rail system up near the muzzle like this...
It is a lightweight light... and has good spill for a shotgun light. I don't love the idea of getting the weight way out on the end but I can drop the light on and off quickly with the mount.
I'd run a pressure switch to my thumb side of the forearm and be adding just a few oz and I'd get my tight forearm back on the gun.
What says the Benelli crowd?
Light help on my benelli
in Benelli
Posted
Had them, played with it in a lot of different combinations and still couldn't shake the wobble. I am happy with my choice to go with the scout.