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About etale

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  • Birthday 11/12/1980
  1. tactical1 has a good point about the grease. I would definitely *NOT* use grease in the hammer plunger/ spring area, as it is incompressible and too viscous to rapidly expunge out the vent hole. In fact, it's a common automotive technique to pull clutch bearings by packing the recess with grease and hammering in a plunger (e.g. solid steel rod) with interference fit to the inner bearing: the force of the plunger is transmitted through the grease to the bearing outer race, thus driving it out of its recess. Point being: if there is captive grease below the plunger when the hammer
  2. Definitely not right. I would call Benelli on this, as it looks like a defective part. I have about 450 rounds through mine and my hammer spring cap is virtually pristine.
  3. etale

    New FFT Stuff

    I have not spoken to FFT about the hammer deformations I observed. FFT is an upstanding company, and I am sure that they will stand behind their products. That said, I feel bad about asking for a refund on the Hammer, and would be happier exchanging it. If it is a heat treat issue (quenching too slowly/ at too low a temerature or tempering too long) it should be easy to resolve quickly. Hardness issues can be caused by more serious problems, such as defects in the steel itself (carbon content too low, impurities, etc.) I'd be interested in what type of steel they are using (S series?)
  4. Mine is in exactly the same position as Crofton's. My m4 is 2010 production, I think (bought in early 2011).
  5. etale

    New FFT Stuff

    Hookster--You are very welcome. StrangerDanger--Thanks. The marks on the hammer are definitely dings/ deformations, and not just surface abrasion. Where the hammer strikes the firing pin there should be a nick visible in one of the pictures. This area has been deformed from an initial thickness of 0.1470 in (measured across the body of the hammer right below the nick) to 0.1530 in (measured right at the nick), for a change of 0.006 in. It seems as if repeated contact with the firing pin has "pancaked out" this portion of the hammer a little, if that makes sense as a description
  6. etale

    New FFT Stuff

    I put 100+ rounds of target loads through my m4 yesterday with the new FFT trigger package and I wanted to share some observations: First let me say that the FFT components installed easily, and functioned without any flaws through all 100+ rounds. Trigger pull is lighter and crisper. I am very excited to have acquired 3 US parts for 922r compliance, and agree with the assessments here that the FFT components seem to be well-made and finished. During routing cleaning of my m4 after range time, I noticed that the FFT hammer suffered some dents/ deformations from striking the firing
  7. etale

    New FFT Stuff

    Thanks, Stranger; I always enjoy your reviews/ comments. I just got my FFT trigger pack today and am looking forward to the install (currently has the Geissele/ CC hammer).... no doubt it will be much easier with the detailed guide you provided.
  8. etale

    Geissele Hammer

    Thanks BigHat for the thoughts and sonny27 for the suggestion to call Geissele. I spoke with an engineer at Geissele who confirmed that the lack of uniformity in the oxide coating is a byproduct of the manufacturing process, and not a defect. Specifically, the sear lips as well as the hammer pivot hole are wire EDM cut, which leaves a different surface texture than the rest of the manufacturing process. After hardening, this texture takes the black oxide (blueing) differently from the rest of the hammer, resulting in a reddish-brown hue, rather than the slick jet-black on the r
  9. etale

    Geissele Hammer

    I just installed the Geissele US-made hammer (acquired through Carriercomp) on my m4, and it functions flawlessly so far. Upon close inspection, the Geissele unit I received differs slightly from the Benelli OEM in several respects. One such difference is that the surface finish on the Geissele does not coat the entire hammer: there is a small patch directly behind the rear sear (the one that engages the disconnector) which seems to be bare tool steel. It may be that the corresponding region by the front sear (trigger engagement) is similarly un-coated, though I did not note this. Di
  10. It's called complying with the law. The fines and penalties associated with taking game with an illegal device greatly outweigh whatever benefit you seem to imply would be associated with not plugging the magazine. I use my m4 for a lot of different things, so it it's important to me that it be as versatile as my interests. So what is it you wanted to say, exactly?
  11. As stated in the post (part 2 of 2), I wanted a plug that can be removed and installed *without* any tools (e.g. c-clip pliers to remove/ install the mag spring retainer). Neither Benelli nor anyone else sells anything like that. As for m4 specific limiters on the market, it isn't so clear to me that there is one, though apparently this would work: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6463/Product/PLUG__3_SHOT__STANDARD_MAGAZINE See post 2 or 2 for another option. Again, nothing on the market that doesn't require removing the mag spring retainer. Also: cost to make my plug:
  12. Thanks much for the reference pic! It looks like installation of the factory limiter requires removal of the mag spring retainer clip. Is that the case? I had specifically wanted a limiter that would require no tools (e.g. c-clip pliers) to remove or install...
  13. Here are the promised installation pictures (See M4 Magazine Plug (post 1 of 2) ). [ATTACH=CONFIG]916[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]917[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]918[/ATTACH] I don't know how much the plug weighs (no scale), but it's pretty damn light. Could be lightened with an aluminum (or titanium or CF...) plug, naturally. Length is perfect for a 2-round (2.75 or 3" shells) limit. Of course, *technically* the law is that while hunting migratory birds, your shotgun must be capable of holding at most 3 rounds. With the m4, strict adherence to this law would require plugging t
  14. I found myself in need of a magazine plug for my m4 with Kip's FL mag (hunting migratory birds, mag must be limited to 2 rounds). I searched the internet, and even ordered one of those Butler Creek plugs, but it seems nothing out there is long enough (12 inches). In the end, I made my own, and thought I'd share the process in case there are others who are interested. Parts: 1) Brass tube, 13/32" (10.32mm) OD with 3/8" (9.53mm) ID by 12in. 2) Tree nut, metric thread, 9.60mm OD with 22.2mm diameter cap. 3) Wood dowel (screw type), 3/8" OD. [ATTACH=CONFIG]911[/ATTACH]
  15. Thanks all for your feedback. I am leaning towards the LaRue, as I want to mount as low as possible. dprichard-I might be interested in one of your stock aimpoint mounts... will send PM.
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