NHnewbie
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Posts posted by NHnewbie
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Locktite isn't required for the installation of the magazine tube. The magazine cap will prevent the magazine tube from ever loosening on you.
I'll try it this way first. Thanks.
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There have been some threads here lately re installing these mag tubes, most using Locktite when installing the new tube. I am about to install one of the mag tubes and would like to make it somewhat easy to remove (vs the factory tube) but want it to be reasonably secure as well. Been reading a bit about Vibra Tite VC-3 and it seems that it might be a bit easier to remove than Locktite 242. Also considering the option on not using any threadlocker. Any wisdom on this topic appreciated.
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Was wondering if it could be accomplished with a torch. I decided to get a heat gun, there have been a few times where I have needed or wanted one. Picked up a DeWalt model for right at $60
Harbor Freight Tools has heat guns for under $15. Not DeWalt quality but more than adequate for occasional use. I have also found cheapies at some major auto parts chains, Lowes, HD etc.
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Rather than a wild guess such as yours.
The setup above as configured weighs 11 lbs 8 oz.
My guess was intended to be a humorous SWAG. The 11lb. 8oz is certainly counterintuitive. Is that with a full mag in each firearm? I can appreciate the utility of this setup especially for LEO applications.
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For those that want it both ways, long & short arms......
Noveske N4 10.5" 5.56 with Safariland QLS - rail clamp attachment system for Level 2-3 holsters provide security and lightning fast transition to secondary weapon as needed; keeps everything together in one tidy package.
About 27 lbs loaded?
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16 bullets already in the gun without a reload and a 7 pound grigger vs. 3 reloads for a revolver and a 12 pound trigger. Oh well, I'm done trying to figure you two out.
Just to be clear: my wife uses a revolver because she can run it consistently and confidently. I use a P226 for the same reasons.
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How is a .357 Magnum revolver easier to handle than say, a Glock 19?
No slide to rack (requires certain level of arm/hand strength), almost no malfunctions to deal with, easily manageable trigger etc. We went down this path, starting with a Sig P226. She shot the P226 quite well but couldnt rack the slide. For some shooters a revolver is the right choice.
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So why you'd pick one of those over your awesome Benelli for home defense, I have no idea.
Training 4 times a year really isn't training. But good luck either way.
My choice of a handgun as a primary HD/SD firearm was so that my wife (a 98 lb weakling) would/could train with me. We tried rifles and shotguns and found that she could barely shoulder an 8-10 lb long gun let alone maneuver it and manage malfunctions. We found a suitable .357 revolver that she can handle well and enjoys shooting. This also allows the option of carry, which is challenging with a long gun. She has become reasonably proficient with this and I now refer to her as "Dirty Harriett." With modern defensive ammo at interior engagement distances of one to seven yards, there is an excellent chance of getting the job done. Are there tradeoffs associated with this choice? Sure, but this solution is better than struggling with a long gun she is not confident or proficient with.
As for training, the four days mentioned above were for shotgun training only. We train at Sig Academy and also with a retired LEO firearms instructor on a one-on-one basis, as well as regular trips to the range for practice. Firearms and shooting sports are not a "lifestyle" activity for us. We have a more than full agenda apart from this and have neither the time or inclination to train to SWAT or SEAL levels. We want to be safe (in the sense of gun safety) and reasonably proficient. Once again, this is a choice, and all choices come with tradeoffs. So far this choice seems to be working for us, but we may reach a different conclusion as time goes by.
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SD,
Thanks or all the suggestions. I have a Tijicon RMR with 6.5 MOA dot on a low mount which I will try first. Bigger dot works better for my eyes. I will order the FFT tube so than I can get on with things.
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NHNewbie,.........are you able to get any type of cheek weld on the stock with that optic?
Put a T1 on my new M4 and even with the factory mount, I had more of a chin weld than cheek.
Believe I will end up with an adjustable stock or a Urbino.
With the pictured stock it is definitely a "chin" weld! I have a c-stock which I hope will be better. With all the comments here on weight, I may ditch the Trijicon and rely on the stock sights, possibly with the Meprolight night sights.
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Well that is certainly impressive looking.
I'm gonna make a comment, which I hope you do not take it negatively. It's not meant to be disrespectful. But have you noticed, in general, on the range and in online photos and videos, the noobs pile on the accessories, and the pros have stripped down guns. That's what we call a "clue". You spend a bunch of time on the range, moving around and shooting stuff, all the extra weight is gonna get old fast.
No offense taken. I get it. My reason for posting is to get opinions of others more experienced than I am. This is a backup HD gun. Primary is a pistol. I will train with this a few times a year and it will sit in the corner waiting to fulfill its mission the other 361 days of the year. If the time should come, it is unlikely I will be dressed in my camo battle gear with chest rig on (more likely skivies) so being able to grab the gun in a ready to go status may be important. So far I am pretty sure I want a light and a red dot on the gun. Once I get it together and have some experience with it I can do some finer tuning. It will not have any more on it than is shown (no bayonet, etc as shown on other threads here) and may have less.
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Is your mag tube on order yet? I hear Kip is taking orders again. Are you looking for a C-Stock...its a great way, if you run it in the middle position, to get the proper sight picture with your optic while getting a 2" shorter LOP. I'd recommend moving the reflex sight to the rear of the receiver rail for a sight distance closer to your other long guns (measure nose to optic and you'll see what I mean).
Ordered a few weeks ago, but based on comments here I dont expect to see it in my lifetime. Thinking of ordering an FFT tube to use now and replacing it with the CC if it shows up. I have a c-stock and will install it when I do the final build. Still experimenting with the position of the sight.
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I have wondered about those Trijicon sights - let us know how you like it. I went the Aimpoint T-1 route. What cleaning stand/rest are you using in those pics? I need something similar - looks very handy.
The cleaning stand is an MTM RMC-5 available at Amazon and the other usual places - about $30
Choosing a sight is kinda like choosing a wife. There are no perfect ones out there, so every choice comes with compromises/tradeoffs. I have tried a wide range sights and like the wide field of view and always on aspect of the Trijicon reflex. But the choice is highly subjective and YMMV.
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I'd need to get 2-3 lbs off this to make a serious difference and that's not likely. SBS is too much hassle for me. Maybe step up the weight training? ;-)
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I hear the concerns about weight. Will do a careful weight budget to determine alternatives. The ammo in and on the gun will no doubt dominate no matter how it is attached. IOW, if you want the ammo, you have to deal with the weight. The shell carrier does snap off easily so offers the option of ditching it if conditions warrant. If the long rail is removed something will need to replace it to mount the sight and light.
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It takes about 60 seconds to assembly / disassemble the kit.
Knock-Knock ! Who's there ?
How many people to hold it in firing position?
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Did a trial install of some of the stuff I plan to hang on my M4. Includes SideArmor Entry full length rail (with two removable side rails and 8 round shell carrier), Trijicon RX30-23 reflex sight, X400U with XT07 tail cap/switch. This all seems to play together nicely. The cable on the XT07 is just the right length to route over the top rail (through a slot under the sight) with the switch pad mounted on the RH side rail. Makes a nice tidy installation with a minimum of cable hanging out where it can get snagged on something. So far I don't see any issue with this set up, but I havent shot it yet. Weight may become an issue. With the standard 11707 stock and standard mag tube but no ammo, the gun weighs 10.6 lbs. Will get some improvement going to the CC mag tube. Also intend to put a Benelli c-stock on it, but don't know how this will affect weight. For comparison, I weighed my Tavor SAR rifle which is set up almost identically, and it comes in at 10.0 lbs. without mag. So, would lighter be better? Sure. However I wont be lugging this around in the field (except maybe for occasional training) and wont be using it for competition,, so I am not yet too concerned about weight. In any event, I cant see how to get the weight down a lot. Maybe a lb by replacing the SideArmor with a short rail and the sight with a mini red dot like the Trijicon RMR. Will post some pix once I figure out how to do that here.
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After reviewing many of the posts on this forum it became apparent that a set of snap ring pliers will be handy in maintaining and modifying an M4. Found a great deal at my local Harbor Freight Tools. Item no. 60531 for $3.99. Includes four different heads suitable for 3/8" to 2" internal and external snap rings, straight, 45 deg, and 90 deg. Not Snap On quality but for the relatively little use these will get, not a problem.
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A drill press and a milling vice is all I used.
Brilliant!
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Has anyone test fit a X400 to the picatinny rail to make sure it has clearance?
I've modified handguards in the past and would be glad to assist in any way I could help.
Thanks for your advice and offer of assistance. Lots of useful input! I I have the FFT hand guards and will take a look at modifying them as you suggest. While I am pretty good with tools, I am also afflicted with OCD and couldn't live with a mod that didn't look "factory" quality. Installing the switch in the hand guard probably works best using a mill, which I dont currently have access to, but I'll find one if this is the way to go. Once I get all the parts collected I'll dive into this. Still waiting for the Carrier Comp mag tube with no visibility on delivery date.
EDIT: If there is insufficient clearance on the rail for the X400, perhaps a 1/2 in riser or other "offset" mount could be added to provide clearance. Not ideal but maybe workable.
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After all the favorable propaganda on this forum re the AVA mount, I am giving this further consideration.
However, my intent would be to use it for the QD and the rail (for an X400 Ultra). In looking at the photos here and on the AVA website, it appears that is may not be possible to install this with the QD fitting and the rail on the same (left) side. For a right handed shooter, the QD would usually be on the left side. This means the rail and X400 would have to be on the right side if I understand this product correctly. This could work depending on the ergonomics of operating the X400 controls with the fingers of the left hand, but my experimenting so seems to indicate that operating the X400 controls with the left thumb (light on left side) may work better. Is the rail rigid enough to hold zero on the laser? Any guidance on this issue?Also, if not using a round flashlight, I assume no need to install the retaining ring for the flashlight (but maybe the screws for aesthetic reasons)? (In case you are wondering why the X400, I am trying to standardize on this across all firearms with a mounted light to avoid having to use a different technique for each different setup.)
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I just pulled the grip on my c-stock vert grip and that method should work well.
A mill would of course be better ...
Have been looking at my c-stock (not yet installed) to see how this would work. Its a simple job with a mill - I'd be looking for a local machine shop to do this. I could do it in 15 min on Bridgeport and I am just minimally competent on this machine. After watching a video of how the pistol grip goes on, it would appear that removing material from the pistol grip would need to be done with some precision to get the grip to index properly, but I may not yet fully understand this.
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The IWC MOE mount would probably fit thru the OEM front sling mount with minimal effort. However, the position of the QD mount may be awkward or cause the weapon to hang away from your body. The only way to know for certain is to try it though. I've found that the further away from the center line of the weapon a sling mount mounts, the more it will feel like the weapon is hanging away from your body.
Thanks - I will give this a try. I understand that this may not be ideal for several reasons. I can see that the AVA mount is a robust design, but it is not compatible with the Side Armor rail system I already have. I'll consider it if the SA proves unsatisfactory.
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StrangerDanger used this one:
http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/
Wheels still turning here on the easiest way to get a useable, rugged QD fitting on the front end of the M4. Just eyeballing a bit, it looks like this style IWC mount-n-slot fitting might fit into the slot in the standard sling attach plate. Might not even need to remove the snap ring depending on the orientation desired. Anyone checked this out? I have the M4 to look at but not the IWC part so difficult to determine clearances etc.
Newbie here with questions
in Benelli
Posted
Bought one on GB a few weeks ago for $399 from a seller in CA who was listing several of them. I see same seller now has one for sale at $699. Blame it on Obama Care or Bush!