Jump to content

Sigfla

Members
  • Posts

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Sigfla last won the day on April 23 2020

Sigfla had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Sigfla's Achievements

Senior Member

Senior Member (3/3)

19

Reputation

  1. my Magpul switch plate is still backordered. I am for sure using it on my beretta but I am not 100% if I want to go the T-nut route yet on the benelli. The use of T nuts does negate my concerns with obstructing anything though. Thanks for the input everyone.
  2. Yeah I need it on that side unless I can find a mag cap that has a QD attachment. Then I am left with cutting and refinishing the part. I might as well buy the Agency part and be done with it. For now I am using the cap switch. I have 2 shotgun classes coming up and we will see how I like no remote. I know the Agency is where I will end up I am just not happy about how I got there.
  3. Just got my Arisaka and after install it looks like a screwed in plate is likely not gonna work. I really hate going in another direction bc I already have the IWC but if I end up using an Agency forearm I might as well use it to mount the light and switch. My finger still hits the QD cup and that would fix everything. Ughh, I used to love experimenting but back then I wasn’t married and had more $$. This thing is becoming a money pit, lol! For now it’s gonna be the end cap switch till I decide to get stupid and buy the Agency.
  4. Hayl and agency rails are totally different parts. They both mount completely differently. Agency uses 2 mounting blocks while the Hayl uses set screws that dig into the guns finish. Also the agency forearm is loaded with mlok slots.
  5. The difference is the Agency screws do not marr the guns finish. Its a totally different type of mount
  6. Anybody here have any strong opinions about the Agency forearm? I like the way it mounts and the Mlok slots even though I read 8 are blocked. Its an attractive setup. I figure I can still keep my IWC light mount (or go another route if the finger issue bothers me more) and mount a magpul switch plate if I want. I'll prob wait a bit b/c I really do not want to dump any more $$ in this platform right now but I am really liking how it looks more each day.
  7. I did a search but couldn’t find anything. Has anyone tried to screw on a Magpul Surefire switch mount to the stock forearm? I want to use a switch but have no desire to change anything else on the gun. I have already dumped a ton into it and anything that adds $$ or weight is not happening. Any issues I need to be aware of if I try to mount the Magpul panel to the forearm? I figured I would grind the bottom flat and screw it down with the mlok nuts as backers. I have 2 sets of firearms so I could even glue a bit on one and just use it as a dedicated switch forearm.
  8. Just get an A&S housing and be done with it. That’s what I had to do with mine as the polymer factory one was just too tight.
  9. I think you have an issue someplace around your hammer spring cap. I might be wrong though bc I thought that pushed up on the hammer engaging it where it is supposed to be. Anyway a group swap is easy especially with Stranger here. Look at this tutorial and see if it nudges your either way.
  10. Oh and if you aren’t measuring with a good set of calipers get some. Murphy will send you directions on how to measure.
  11. Try Murphy precision. If he doesn’t have a matching base he can fab one for you. I had to have him make me a one piece 20 MOA base for my Dakota target rifle bc Talley only made a 2 piece.
  12. No just surprising but they did hurt. I sent some feedback to IWC so maybe if they produce a Gen2 it will be different. I don't know how prevalent an issue it is as IWC had never heard of anyone else having that problem. Its a common forend grip for a lot of clay and wing shooters though.
×
×
  • Create New...