Sigfla

my Magpul switch plate is still backordered. I am for sure using it on my beretta but I am not 100% if I want to go the T-nut route yet on the benelli. The use of T nuts does negate my concerns with obstructing anything though. Thanks for the input everyone.

Yeah I need it on that side unless I can find a mag cap that has a QD attachment. Then I am left with cutting and refinishing the part. I might as well buy the Agency part and be done with it. For now I am using the cap switch. I have 2 shotgun classes coming up and we will see how I like no remote. I know the Agency is where I will end up I am just not happy about how I got there.

Just got my Arisaka and after install it looks like a screwed in plate is likely not gonna work. I really hate going in another direction bc I already have the IWC but if I end up using an Agency forearm I might as well use it to mount the light and switch. My finger still hits the QD cup and that would fix everything. Ughh, I used to love experimenting but back then I wasn’t married and had more $$. This thing is becoming a money pit, lol! For now it’s gonna be the end cap switch till I decide to get stupid and buy the Agency.

Hayl

Agency

Hayl and agency rails are totally different parts. They both mount completely differently. Agency uses 2 mounting blocks while the Hayl uses set screws that dig into the guns finish. Also the agency forearm is loaded with mlok slots.

The difference is the Agency screws do not marr the guns finish. Its a totally different type of mount

Anybody here have any strong opinions about the Agency forearm? I like the way it mounts and the Mlok slots even though I read 8 are blocked. Its an attractive setup. I figure I can still keep my IWC light mount (or go another route if the finger issue bothers me more) and mount a magpul switch plate if I want. I'll prob wait a bit b/c I really do not want to dump any more $$ in this platform right now but I am really liking how it looks more each day.

I did a search but couldn’t find anything. Has anyone tried to screw on a Magpul Surefire switch mount to the stock forearm? I want to use a switch but have no desire to change anything else on the gun. I have already dumped a ton into it and anything that adds $$ or weight is not happening. Any issues I need to be aware of if I try to mount the Magpul panel to the forearm? I figured I would grind the bottom flat and screw it down with the mlok nuts as backers. I have 2 sets of firearms so I could even glue a bit on one and just use it as a dedicated switch forearm.

Send it to Stranger!

Just get an A&S housing and be done with it. That’s what I had to do with mine as the polymer factory one was just too tight.

I think you have an issue someplace around your hammer spring cap. I might be wrong though bc I thought that pushed up on the hammer engaging it where it is supposed to be. Anyway a group swap is easy especially with Stranger here. Look at this tutorial and see if it nudges your either way.

Oh and if you aren’t measuring with a good set of calipers get some. Murphy will send you directions on how to measure.

Try Murphy precision. If he doesn’t have a matching base he can fab one for you. I had to have him make me a one piece 20 MOA base for my Dakota target rifle bc Talley only made a 2 piece.

No just surprising but they did hurt. I sent some feedback to IWC so maybe if they produce a Gen2 it will be different. I don't know how prevalent an issue it is as IWC had never heard of anyone else having that problem. Its a common forend grip for a lot of clay and wing shooters though.

After using the IWC mount this weekend I realized it was very easy for a shooter who points his index finger forward on the forearm while firing (like a lot of hunters and clay shooters do) to jam their finger against the sling cup. I have a pretty long reach so I don't know how common an issue it is but if I had my preference I would simply place a single QD cup on the bottom where the logo is. That way its still in an ambi position and its out of the way of either finger. I must have jammed my finger 4 or 5 times while moving fast. I hate to alter my technique just to accommodate one gun.

So after reading this I decided to grab the gun out of my case and give it a good look. I noticed my IWC light mount was loose (not surprisingly bc I didn't loctite it down). I have a bad habit of dry fitting things and moving on without locking them down properly. I took the gun apart and fixed the loose IWC screws with lock tight. I then took a look at my FFT magazine tube. Low and behold it was loose. I could unscrew it by hand without any force. I broke out the blue lock tight again and really torqued it down with a little drop or 2 of lock tight. I doubt its moving now. I did notice the cap teeth are cut super shallow though. They are almost decorative really as they only engage on the outside edge of the cap. Anyway I think its fixed. Had a good day in class with the gun but we weren't using slings and I am not doing that again with the Benelli. I found myself reaching for my Beretta 1301 more often just bc of the weight standing on the line.

I am concerned that I somehow didn’t install the new 7rd magazine tube correctly. I can’t see how having it screwed in too much or not enough would cause the loose cap though. It seems like it’s on tight enough so I can’t imagine it’s unscrewing itself from the cap??? It’s such a simple thing I can’t figure how it doesn’t stay tight with the detents

Anyone have a fix? I just took a class today and my M4 cap kept loosening up despite my tightening it down hard. Am I missing a trick?

I decided to go Scout 300 on my M4 and 600 Pro on my Beretta 1301. Light options on that gun literally suck. I figured out a solution using a Magpul cantilever Mount with a Nordic clamp but it’s like a bandaid on a major wound. The Pro should help things a bit.

Try SKD and see if they have any ESS cards in stock

Yes buy with confidence. I purchase a lot from them after I bought a thermal unit from a guy that works there. I currently have a couple of backorders there now.

MRO is better but it’s not really a micro sight. Two different animals. I went Holosun 570 and love it. Ideally I want as big a lens that’s rugged enough I can get. I don’t think the SRO is in any way weak either. Imho a pistol slide likely puts more stress on these things than a heavy long gun.

They all have to open it to log it in