Sigfla

I received my mount today along with some other goodies in the mail. Let me say my apprehension in ordering it with the AVA not being available immediately disappeared upon opening it. It is not bulky at all and it fits the gun very nicely. I had intended to use my Olight M2R with the mount and it looks amazing on the gun however the factory Olight Pic rail mount is huge and it gets in the way no matter how I mount the light. I will either have to change mounts or spring for a Scout light (which IMHO the mount kinda needs). Not sure what approach I will sendup taking as the Scout lights are all pretty much sold out or $$. I don't want to cannibalize one from one of the AR's either. Hopefully I can find a more low profile ring mount that fits the Pic rail without blocking the line of sight. I also got my 870 back from the smith and decided to standardize all my sling mounts. I had a single point on my 870 back when they were the rage but everything else I own uses a 2 point with QD buttons. A quick order to Mesa for one of their 870 QD magazine caps and now my slings all work for each gun I own.

I’ll give you my philosophy which is worth zero. My experience is majority rifle and pistol. The Tac shotgun is a home/property defense weapon. If I was shooting it in competition my approach would change significantly. I see what I have on the gun as my entire load out. The magazine tube plus side saddle. The cards I wear in a chest rig are extra ammo that I can reload from cover or a lull if one happens. I have 8 rounds staged vertically in front of my AR pouches that hold my ESSTAC cards. Those 8 are my quick need it fast reloads that I can grab and put one in the chamber. Ideally I am not swapping cards off the gun with it completely empty either. I shoot lefty so in a perfect world I would not run dry and I can pull an empty carrier off the gun and place a loaded one back on without running dry. Shooting lefty I have to flip the gun to swap cards. Thus I don’t have ready loading port access on an unloaded gun. If I did run dry perhaps I would have the training ingrained to pull one of my quick 8 rounds out before I swapped cards? Those quick rounds might get me to cover so I can swap for a new card.

Says in the description you can flip it

I think that may be my next move down the line. I didn't want to have to mess with it but its for sure something like that which is going on. The polymer molding looks tough as nails though and very high quality. I went ahead late night and manned up with a tiny bit of Flitz and took the finish off the shell stop where it touches the case rim. I figured if I messed it up I have a new one coming anyway. Anyway I was very light with it and just polished it up a little bit. The first round off the shell carrier while racking the bolt hung up again but it was much higher up in the chamber and "almost" made it. The next 10 fed in no problem. I used a couple of different rounds as well. The only thing I haven't tested was a slug. This is with the barrel pointing straight up as well so its all bolt and spring lifting and feeding the round without any help from gravity. Its been a bit of trial and error to figure out why the gun is doing this. I am so used to a lot of recoil spring tension ramming rounds home that this had me wondering what was going on. Now I am curious once my new unit arrives from GG&G how the shell stop spring tension is on that one. Once I removed mine I realized that its pretty strong and I think that contributed to the issue most of all. Loading rounds requires A LOT of force into the magazine and I have a pretty solid click once they go in. Shotguns are kinda new to me even though I own and use many, I have a lot more experience working on my handguns and rifles so I am exploring everything with this one trying to figure things out. I also have no other M4 to compare since I bought this one brand new sight unseen.

I just spent 30 minutes trying to wrestle my trigger back in after I messed with unscrewing the stock. It was tight but much easier to seat without the stock in the way. With the stock installed it was a bear to get it adjusted just right to allow the trigger group to seat itself to the rear. As far as the shell stop I went ahead and ordered a new GG&G unit. I like the larger pad anyway. Hopefully the new shell stop and spring that comes with that unit will fix the issue. However, I still believe I have a slightly oversize trigger housing. I am not messing with it again until I get the new Mesa Stock and then I'll see how it fits.

I thought possibly my trigger group tightness might be hindering the carrier spring slightly as well.

I just grabbed the gun and a few shells along with my flashlight. The only reason why this is a concern is if I choose to leave a round on the shelf with an empty chamber for safety. It is 100% the tension of the shell stop jamming the round from lifting. I do not know if this is going to be an issue under firing as the gun is new but I doubt it will bc the amount of tension here is very light. Its just enough to hold the shell from lifting up away from the back of the shell stop. Either a stronger carrier lift spring would fix it (pushing the round up past the shell stop with more force), a light polish on the side of the shell stop (allowing the round to move more freely), or a lighter shell stop spring (not allowing it to push against the cartridge rim so hard). I used some older Federal buck with a rough cartridge rim and some newer stuff with a nice shiny smooth rim. Both got jammed up into the back of the shell stop without lifting up off the carrier with enough force to chamber. I assume the cartridge rim pushes against the shell stop allowing the carrier to move forward. If I decide to polish it would be light as thats the easiest fix I can think of. I am hesitant to try and stretch my carrier lift spring any to see if that gives the round more upward force.

Yes. I can press it during removal and it takes slightly less "pull" to get it out OR I can just pull harder and it will come out (usually with my thumb giving an assist along the receiver). Installation is done while pushing the release button. The trigger group is tight at the rear closest to the stock. As I said its tight on the sides it fits better front to back. If I am a little off of the takedown hole its not a huge hassle to get it lined up but even that takes multiple tries to get right (2 or 3), eventually it all lines up. I feel my trigger groups casting is rough and I have some edges that are a little wide which is causing the tightness.

I will try it. I have a new Mesa coming so I have to do it anyway. I am not sure its the stock though b/c it seems to be tight on the sides not front to back. I actually twisted my stock slightly the last time I took it apart to look inside and found that the takedown pin hole aligned easier when I dropped the trigger group back in but the side tightness was still there. I think its the polymer trigger guard to be honest. Its not a huge issue by any stretch. It just takes me longer to get my gun apart and back together due to its sticking. I just thought it might have been a contributing cause of my bolt sticking back while trying to hand rack a round in off the shelf.

I noticed my new M4 was having some slight hangups while hand tacking the bolt with a shell on the shelf. I read through the forum and found another user with a similar problem from 2009. My gun is brand new so I am not too worried about it as I believe the issue is simply the unworn finish on the Benellie shell stop and possibly the carrier release lever on the trigger group. Both of mine have a rough finish on them currently. If it continues to be an issue I will likely buy a GG&G unit and give it a slight polish and install. I like the larger button anyway. My main concern is how tight the entire group itself is. I have seen many videos of people removing their trigger groups without any real effort. Mine is very tight and requires a bit of pull to get it out. Reinstalling it also requires some effort. Is this normal?

Picked up my M4 today. Getting my 870 back from the smith tomorrow. It’s a good week so far. Let me say this gun is typical benelli. Excellent quality. I have a long draw (30.5) shooting bows and am a bigger guy at 6.1 feet. The factory stock is fine for me wearing a T shirt. Anything bulkier and it would be slightly too long. I am glad I ordered the Mesa Tac stock. I debated swapping the safety bc I shoot lefty. As it is from a slung position it’s easy and more natural at the moment to hit the safety with my thumb. Even if I have to tilt the gun slightly depending on position. We will see as time progresses if I decide to reverse it. I have parts coming so in the next few days I hope to have it fully rigged out. For now all I have is my 1/2 charging handle and ambi sling adapter for the Mesa.

Well I hope to have my gun in hand tomorrow. My 870 is at the gunsmith now so I am excited to pickup the M4. I couldn’t help but accessorize it a bit. I went with a Scalarworks Sync Mount, Holosun 508v2, Mesa Tac stock, Ambi sling mounts, Titanium tube from FreedomTac, new forend (gonna have my friend stipple), new follower, IWC light mount, BUT not sure on the light (I had wanted the AVA to use my Olight M2 but that’s a no go). I’ll see when it all gets here whether I want to buy another Scout light setup. I love Surefire but they are $$ and Olight has been amazing lately. I had wanted to avoid using a pic rail with my light.

Anyone mounted the RMR compatible holosuns to a Sync mount? Any issues?

I ordered the IWC. The AVA was amazing though. Very well thought out and machined so low profile.

These look awesome but $$$. http://www.aridusindustries.com/product-category/qdc/

I used a Tacstar slimline on my 870 and another hard shell type on my 590. I am not in love with either. I shoot lefty and decided to go with the ESSTAC cards for my M4. It’s a cheap way to try the Velcro out. If it works I can swap to the other guns. I also have a chest rig with Taco’s that can hold them if I need. I figure a reload will look like this. Strip the old card off, pull the new one out of the Taco, place it on the gun, and reload off the card. Shooting lefty I have to turn the gun over so I would stage my shells accordingly for an upside down reload.

Well that sucks royally. I am always behind the curve I guess....

I just found an M4 and bought it. I have everything I need to accessorize it except the light mount. Just out of curiosity how long has AVA been out of stock and for those with some historical perspective how long does it take for him to restock generally? There are a few posts out there on the carrier comp titanium tubes and restocking times but none on the AVA I could find. Just trying to get a general idea.

Thanks again. Yeah, I checked Wrights pricing page and I think it was 100 bucks for a bolt. Might be wrong. Its only money right, lol.... I am not in a super hurry. I have enough toys to keep me occupied. I dunno why I always seem to get an itch for a new toy whenever the crap hits the fan. I might end up just waiting for a used NP3 H2O. I was debating the M4, a Beretta 1301 Tac, Mossberg 930 SPX, or an FN SLP. Each one had its plus and minuses. The M4 just had it all with a healthy and normally in stock group of accessories. The Beretta was #2 but harder to find and from what I read I will wait forever for the Nordic Comp light mount I want. In any case I have never gone wrong going with my first choice anyway and I love my Benellis.

I guess my only option at this point to have a color matched bolt would be to NP3 the bolt after the fact with Wrights Armory? Or do you think I could just have it cerakoted to match the current finish on the guns?

Thank you. I was suspecting that but wasn't sure. I had hoped it wasn't so. Pity Benelli doesn't put the accurate pic on their web page. Its confusing.

Damn that is sexy looking M4. I prefer the solid stock but that coated one looks amazing. I am trying to find one to buy right now and setup almost exactly like that. I want the coated bolt and solid stock with the same light mount. Can you coat the magazine tube cap as well? I have never seen one done so I don't know if there is any reason why it couldn't also be matched to the gun.

I am a little lost on the differences between the H2O models. I know there is the NP3 version which has a coated color matched bolt but I keep seeing guys talk about buying sku#11794 which is the cerakoted H2O model and it having a black bolt. The pictures I see of guns in the wild are all over the place. I am ordering #11794 but want the color matched bolt not the black one and would rather not have to send it off to get refinished. If its between the all black or the silver gun with black bolt I will just find and all black one.

I wish these guys would come out with a Benelli mount. Its the cleanest look I have seen yet. https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-aimpoint-micro-crom/

I am looking at an m4 #11794. I have seen black bolts and color matched to the receiver titanium ones like benelli has pictured on their website. Which color is the bolt if I ordered that model gun?