CA Comp Featureless Human

I was running some shitty target ammo the other day shooting clays and I've finally had it with the OEM bolt handle. I just ordered the UA handle. $10 and free shipping is hard to beat. Glad it's working well for the guys that have been using it. Thanks for the feedback. Will report back.

Has anyone used the Arms Unlimited handle? https://www.armsunlimited.com/AU-Large-Bolt-Charging-Handle-for-Benelli-M4-p/lb-m4-bch.htm Looks very similar to the KZ handle.

I know I am replying to an old thread, but hopefully this helps someone still in the market for a case/bag. Harbor Freight has a knock off Pelican case for a fraction of the price. Here is a link: https://www.harborfreight.com/9800-weatherproof-protective-rifle-case-long-black-64520.html. I have used one of these for around a year and it has been excellent. I'm sure the fit and finish is not quite as nice as a pelican, but it is durable, water tight and I have had zero issues with function. As mentioned above though, hard cases are really only good for storage or long distance transportation/travel/shipping. They are too heavy and unwieldy for everyday use, like a trip to the range or hunting. For that I'd recommend a rifle bag type set-up. Pay attention to dimensions as many shotgun-specific bags will be made for a sporting type shotgun and will be too long and not wide enough for your M4 with a pistol grip. I recommend a bag that is geared towards something like an AR-10 that has backpack straps and lots of pouches for ammo. If you are in California (like me) you will want to make sure that the zippers can be locked with a luggage lock. I understand it can be a felony to travel within 1000 ft of a school (i.e. leaving my own driveway on the way to the range) without your long gun in a locked case.

Yes - all but confirmed that the screw was red loctited. If I did it again (thank god I don't have to), I would go about things differently, hopefully this helps: 1. Before starting - ask stranger and this forum, develop a plan. 2. Start with a heat gun or a torch to try to break down the thread locker (skip soldering iron, solvent). Remove the trigger group and butt pad and get that bastard really hot. 3. Use a wheeler fat wrench or similar torque wrench on a pretty low setting with high quality hex bit to try loosening the fastener without stripping it. 4. If it starts to strip, abandon hope of removing with a hex bit move straight to the screw extractor, make sure that the extractor is right sized (very small) for the job. 5. If all else fails, don't be afraid to mill it out. If done carefully, it can be accomplished without damaging the stock or tube. If going with the Mesa Urbino as replacement, spend the extra $30 and get the model with both the riser and limbsaver (this one: https://www.mesatactical.com/products/urbino-pistol-grip-stock-for-ben-m4-riser-limbsaver-12-ga-black.html). At a minimum, get the version with the riser (https://www.mesatactical.com/products/urbino-pistol-grip-stock-for-ben-m4-riser-standard-butt-12-ga-black.html), you are going to need it if your plan on aiming. Out of curiosity, I would be interested if anyone is able to confirm the source of the threadlocked screw. I suspect it was not done at the factory, the screw was a 5/64' SAE like RPC and Pinoy Power. Everything else on the gun appears to be metric. The guy I spoke to at Mesa thought that it was being done by the company importing the guns.

Gentlemen: Here is an update on my situation - hopefully this helps someone else with a similar problem. The good news - the CA-compliant "C-Stock" is now off and I have my Mesa Urbino installed. The bad news - that hex screw ended up being an incredible pain in the ass. I ended up milling most of it and removing the remainder with an extractor. Unfortunately, that was the only way to get it out. My theory is still red loctite. As anticipated the recoil tube does have just 1 notch, so that screw was redundant - the stock was never adjustable. Thanks for all the help and feedback, especially Stranger. I really appreciate it. I can follow up with some photos if it would help the next guy.

Thank you Stranger. Will let you know how it goes.

Thank you Stranger! Will try this and let you know how it goes. Do you think the heat from a heat gun or torch will compromise the polymer in the stock near the screw? I am replacing it but would still like to try to keep the old one intact if possible. Also, I am able to remove the roll pin with a punch, but it feels like the screw still needs to be out first to remove the stock. Does this sound correct?

Thank you RPC. Tried soldering iron, did not work. I think they used the red loctite which seems unnecessary for such a small fastener, especially since the tube is already unnotched making the stock not adjustable. Anyway, I ended up stripping the screw head, so now have a bigger challenge. Thinking about trying to get some solvent down to the treads then super gluing and allen wrench to the screw head. If anyone has a better idea I am all ears.

Guys: Like RPC and PinoyPower I have a CA compliant M1014 with a pinned "c-stock" on an unnotched tube (fixed position skeletonized stock). I am trying to remove the c-stock and replace it with a Mesa Tactical Urbino. I am able to unscrew the pistol grip, but stock won't budge. The screw that keeps the adjustment button from working is unmovable. I've tried removing both retaining pins in the vicinity and no effect. My best guess is thread locker. Does anyone know how to remove this screw or another way to get the stock off? -Michael