cas

I would have to argue doing two things can't possibly take the same time as doing one thing if you're doing them the same speed both times unless you have some space-time manipulation trick. If you're saying most of the time, in reality it's not going to matter much, sure. People have a tendency to see, buy and install "go fast parts" even when it's not a good idea. The RCI safety is kind on like that. With it I can start with my finger on the trigger if I want (or a fraction of an inch away), and deactivate the safety with the middle of my finger without taking it off the trigger. Because I've shot plenty of match stages where I could start with the gun shouldered and pointed right at the first target, that ability does matter and does save time. That's not a most of the time thing though. And for people not using their gun for that type shooting, it's more likely a never thing.

Shy of it filling up with water and freezing, how do you get a barrel bulge that far up 3/4 of the way up the choke? Shoot it with the choke unscrewed a whole lot? Isn't that well past the threads?

The gun I have it on is drastically ground on away, so opening the hole a bit more is of little concern to me. (other than having an oversized hole left over if/when this part takes a dump). But the fact that it will probably need to be done, and isn't stated front and center right away is kind of shitty.

Maybe you could re-write whatever this is supposed to mean?

I have the Roth on my match gun and honestly I'm not terribly crazy about it. Since I can push it off with the middle of my finger, rather than just the tip up my finger, I suppose it's probably fractions of moment quicker to do and get on the trigger, but it's not game changing. And since doing that is so different than all the other guns that don't have it, I think that difference gives me pause at times, and that eats up anything it saved.

Yes I know it's conveniently located at the end of their installation video, a point at which most potential buyers have already stopped watching, having seen the assembly completed and assuming no modification to their receiver will be necessary. lol

Similar. But shells are not stopping hitting the carrier, but getting back under the carrier. Haven't had time to play with it though as it's been a low priority. Be sure to share any info you learn. I'm 0-2 now with them.

^ Re-reading old threads, this just reminded me to check stuff out. I did finally switch out the Nordic follower on my match gun for a Phase-5, but the latter is a good deal shorter. I need to see if this effects capacity at all. More specifically, my "plug". It's a cut down empty shell at the end of the mag tube. I'd found early on with the mag tube I'm using that you could "load" one last shell about 80+% of the way, but it wouldn't fit. By making a plug, that last one shell too many just starts to go in the tube before it stops. Much faster to realize and recover from your error than a shell that almost wants to go in. I need to see if that measurement changed.

Benelli factory barrels as I'm sure you know have "flared" muzzles, they get bigger for the Mobil or Crio chokes. If you cut one and re-choke, you'll be stuck with thin walled Tru-chokes or something similar. (only had it done with SBE, end result isn't awful, but certainly not as good as the factory chokes.)

So instead of doing what I should have been doing, I messed with it instead. It seems to be working fine now. But in typical fashion for me I did several things at once so I'm not entirely sure which one solved the problem. Swapping springs didn't help. So I slightly polished the end of it to interacts with the drop lever. Polished one spot on the side that had a tiny bur. Slightly rounded/tapered/polished the sharp edges on the back side where the spring sits. Also tightened the "flapper" spring. When I was first putting it together when I got it, I was having trouble getting the screw lined up and in. With this I found the hole I'd enlarged in my button was too tight, the screw bottomed out and wouldn't turn. But I thought "Heck I'll just turn the button the rest of the way." What I didn't realize was the button wasn't slipping against the spring ends, it was turning the spring clock wise, expanding it. Making it too large for the hole in the frame. I tightened it up, but I guess not enough. It still rubbed a little. So I tightened it up some more while it was out. I don't think however that this was the issue with the shells not releasing from the magazine when the hammer dropped. I'm hoping monday I'll get to run a few live rounds through it.

Okay.... it's not happy with my spring. I don't think I have any spares so I'll need to pull one out of another gun and see if it's just THIS spring, or the part itself.

Just to revisit and touch base on the J. Kenny latch.... all is not well. Work has conspired to keep me from actually firing the thing with it in, but loading it I've noticed an inconsistency in the feel. Looking into that is when I realized it was malfunctioning with dummy shells, not releasing them when the gun "fired". I released it's because the latch isn't seating flush against the frame like it should, it's hanging up a good deal of the time. Still haven't had a chance to look into it in depth, but since I was posting other nonsense, I figured I'd better reel back in my prior good comments about the part, at least for now. So at the moment I'm 0 and 2 on J.Kenny parts working. But unlike the other, I should be able to get this sorted.

The only reason it needs to be ramped and scalloped is because it's there. If all that extra wasn't there like on a factory guard, it wouldn't need to be. lol Actually when I first played with one in person I thought "Why the half measure?" If you're going to make it ramped and concave, why not go all the way and continue the troth farther back into the trigger guard loop itself and have it open ended. Though that would be a pure race part and not appeal to as big a market. I think I might prefer it flat rather than concave. The anodizing is thinning on the edges of mine, not from the rims rubbing on it, but from my thumb. That's why I say "no where near it" because my thumb is what's riding on the two edges and after many stages the side of my thumb is feeling it.

By pushing the shells into the loading port, not pushing the case heads into the trigger guard?

Well I was wrong, and now confused. My SupNov DOES still have the factory follower. But I have a stepped plastic follower kicking around, not in a gun. Don't know where that would have come from? lol

It sounds fanboy to say, but my original M2 is one of the (few?) guns I've bought that I have never had even a moment of regret in buying and it's brought me nothing but satisfaction. (to the point where I've bought and sold several more since that first one)

Some have different shape / length "noses" on them. I've wondered "Is there a reason? A benefit or down side? Or are they just made for different guns. I know the Nova and other models have one of a different shape, with the step in it. I'm pretty sure my SuperNova doesn't have the stock follower in it, but I'm also pretty sure I don't recall buying a "special" one for it. lol I need to check when I get home out of curiosity. I'm about to buy a couple Phase-5 blue followers... because they're blue. Being "colorblind", the red, orange and green ones all can all look a little too similar to a case head to my eyes.

My experience is shells really don't come anywhere near it while quad loading, so it doesn't really help me in any way. I've seen other people claim it does. I've often wondered if they just think it does, or are they loading much differently than I do?

I have several Nordic follwers, and at least one Phase 5 offering, probably other now forgotten brands. Other than getting rid of hard plastic ones that can crack (the plastic Benelli ones seem pretty soft and not much of a concern), I don't know how you judge better or best. lol I've never changed one and afterwards thought "that's so much better" or "that's so much worse". If you're replacing it as a 922R part obviously it needs to be US made.

IMO not in any way. Honestly I don't feel it's worth it for anyone, but that's just me, I know plenty with disagree till they're blue in the face. (I have factory polymer as well as factory and aftermarket metal ones) I put a "pretty blue one" on my race gun because it was pretty blue. I've found no other advantage to it. I had to shim/peen it to fit the receiver well and not rock/rattle around. It's no easier to load with it. MAYBE it's stronger if I use my shotgun as a club and hope the trigger still works? Maybe not though. I only have one spare plastic housing and no spare metal one's, so I can't do a side by side torture test. Waiting on the federal funding.

I used to do a fairly good sized shotgun match every summer ("do" as in design the stages, build and match director). Mostly knock down steel, some clay flippers, maybe a slug stage, maybe buckshot and a table of bowling pins. First time shooters would often ask for advise or suggestions, my answer was always the same. The night before the match, cut your fingernails. Short.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/60407 Yet when I looked it up when I first found one, it made mention of a mag plug retainer. Wasn't a forum post but a parts seller. Dunno. Unless they meant plug as in cap, not block.

The one on the right is for a shell limiter, to be used with a plug (I guess to keep a dowel centered and in place) in the magazine. I've found them still kicking around inside the tube of a few used police guns, which puzzled me. But I've seen a few things on police M1/M2's that confused me. lol Isn't the hole on the other a little large for an end cap? I dunno, unless I'm just used to older ones. Maybe it works in conjunction with the other?

I have had three different length Nordic tubes on my SuperNova. One was close to flush but at the moment I can't remember what the "plus" was. Maybe two? It was a Nordic Components. I don't have any pics of it. I've had two others on it as well, both NC's, one was a little longer, one a good deal. I can strongly recommend Nordic Components parts, but their tubes in certain lengths seem to be in short supply at the moment.