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M2 Shimming and Choke Question


South FLA
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I have been a lurker on the forum for a bit and have noticed many members asking about M2 shim adjustments. I have a M2 Field in 20 gauge that I bought in 2006 and right out of the box it shot high. At 25 yards 90% of my shot pattern was over the point of aim.

 

I added a TruGlo fat bead and replaced original shim with a C shim and it brought my pattern down to 70% high 30% low, which is still too high for my needs. So today I finally got around to adding an additional shim (B) to the already installed C shim to try to lower the comb/POI.

 

Adding the additional B shim was pretty simple. I hole punched out the bottom alignment tabs and cut the top tab off flush. I then belt sanded (120 Grit) it making sure to keep the original factor taper on the the thicker rounded end and about 40-60% thinner on the squared end and smoothed out the tab cuts/holes.

 

I am going to try to pattern the shotgun this week to see if I lowered my POI to the desired 60/40 to 50/50 ratio that I want. I will post my results after patterning.

 

I know some members have tried the stacked shim method and was wondering how much it lowered POI in relation to POA. Could you please post results or comments on stacked shim method?

 

Lastly, although my M2 20 gauge documents state that I have CRIO chokes they actually look like mobile chokes, threads are on the top and choke length is only 2" overall. Did the 2006 model M2 field in 20 gauge only come with mobile choke system not CRIO?

 

Thanks,

 

Robert

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Lastly, although my M2 20 gauge documents state that I have CRIO chokes they actually look like mobile chokes, threads are on the top and choke length is only 2" overall. Did the 2006 model M2 field in 20 gauge only come with mobile choke system not CRIO?

 

Thanks,

 

Robert

 

If that is what the choke looks like than they are mobile chokes.

 

mobil-flush.jpg?t=1254881447

Edited by Novaking
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Just curious, what two shims are you using?

 

C & D. My gun was really shooting high for me... I was used to the Browning Sweet 16 (which I bought new in 1966 and have shot all my life). Those old "hump-backs" really hike the sighting plane high for you.

 

You just have to remove the little knobs off the surfaces of the shims where they touch one another (pair of dikes will do it... ["dike" = tool in this context])... no glue necessary... just tighten up the stock and you're good to go.

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