Day, Low, and No Light

[Unobtanium]

I have finally managed to package a day/low/no light system in the Benelli M4. It's something I've been trying to do for the last 15 years, and finally there are enough things from all of the manufacturers to make this cohesively work! I fired 30-40 rounds of full-power buck/slug yesterday, and re-torqued this mount on the XVL2. It did not move. The wrench just clicked over. It had not loosened. Today, I shot another 50 rounds of crazy stuff like 1290fps 12 pellet 00, etc. I applied a witness mark (Molotow paint pen), and the paint wasn't even cracked where the screw and body juncture is. I have finally found a durable and reliable setup and am stoked. Let me explain the setup:

 

I started with an M4 Entry, OEM from Benelli, 11724.

 

-I replaced the safety with a TTI oversized safety. It allows the "belly" of the trigger finger to naturally toggle it "off" when going to trigger.

-I replaced the polymer trigger group with an OEM Benelli part.

-The handguards are Benelli OEM with Tango Arms full stipple. This makes a World of difference in keeping your hand out of the light during recoil!

-I installed an IWC light/sling mount with 1913 rail. On this I placed an XVL2 IRC from Surefire. It is pictured, and its functions shown in the photo. The IWC mount is torqued to 30 in-lb and Loctite 243 applied. The 1913 rail to IWC juncture same, but to 20 in-lb. The XVL2 IRC is torqued to 9 in-lb (per Surefire), and no threadlocker is applied. It has a split-washer that is offset/constantly applying tension to the screw, within the mount.

-I replaced the OEM 1913 rail with a FFT 1913 rail, and torqued it to 15 in-lb and applied Loctite 243 to the screws.

-I got an ADM "low" Ti QD mount and placed an H2 in it (It actually works under NODS perfectly when turned to "0", but I later purchased a T2 and prefer it slightly.) This places the optic perfectly for me with the stock on the "mid" 12.25" LOP setting, and "raises" it when the stock is fully extended to use with NODS. It also allows you to remove the sight and use the irons, should the window become damaged, frozen humidity obscure it, whatever the case may be.

-The rear ghost ring was replaced with an LPA plain ghost ring, no ears. The front sight was removed, acetone was used to remove the luminescent paint, and Testor's orange was applied, over which was applied automotive clear-coat from a touchup pen.

-The side-saddle is a Vang Comp velcro card, attached to velcro from Esstac (they had some handy). It holds shells better than any other I am aware of while still being very easy to load.

-I use and prefer the ESD sling, hard-mounted to the back of the stock the old fashioned way, and QD'ed to the IWC up front on the opposite side.

-Lubed with Black Rifle Balm and Field Balm from CherryBalmz. Now discontinued.

 

*This is with the side saddle full, and the mag-tube full, 11 rounds on board total. Shotgun ammo payload itself averages well over an ounce once you factor wadding!

*Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!*

*Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!*

 

 

It took me 15 years to refine things to this point, but I finally feel like I have a cohesive, durable, solid form-factor tool.

 

Edited May 12, 2022 by Unobtanium

[brightt]

your a mad man, Love it!