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I got it direct from A&S in February or March this year, don't remember exactly when. In the picture above, you can see the marks where the front of the trigger contacted the front of the pocket in the trigger group. It is "stepped" with two ledges, both are deformed where the trigger hit them. There are no such marks on the factory trigger housing, that has had a couple of thousand rounds through it, with the exact trigger that broke.

http://www.davesmetalworks.com/m4.html I got one here for $75 which seemed like a great deal to me. I'm not advertising for them. I just got my first M4 and have been going through the parts. I couldn't handle spending $300 for a titanium tube. The steel tube is going to be around 45% lighter but what is a couple of ounces? Maybe I'll change my tune later and wish I made a different decision but for the price, I felt like it was the way to go... Also, almost everything is out of stock and this one I got in just a few days.

I got my new disconnector pin, and recoil spring yesterday. I could only measure the force to retract the bolt with a trigger pull gauge, but the old spring was about two pounds less force than the new one. I put everything back together with the OEM trigger. After some experimentation with both trigger housings, I put everything back in the factory trigger housing. I'm leaning towards the trigger pocket in the A&S trigger housing not being long enough. The nose of the trigger contacts the front of the pocket in the A&S housing, before the back contacts the travel limit pin. It also looks like the front of the trigger has more room to travel down in the factory housing. When I get some time, I may open up the front of the A&S and see if that makes a difference.

As a certified firearms instructor, I would preface saying that the best firearm you have is the one you’ll actually carry. The shotgun in the house will do little good standing in the driveway. Every time I have needed a firearm, I have never had the luxury of 30 seconds to go retrieve one. I would recommend seeking profession training to ingrain the firearm rules. I’d recommend both you and your wife attend one since knowing your legal rights is as important as picking a gun. I’d do this before spending a bunch of money.

Have you looked at the Intellibeam version of the Scout? M600IB model. It auto gates itself from 100-600 lumens depending on how much light blow back you’re receiving from things like indoor walls. It rapidly changes so fast in output that you barely even notice it. The m300 and m600 tailcaps are the same. So it will jam your thumb if you’re riding your thumb on the momentary button and fire a 12 gauge round. I’he been working out a new light mounting solution which uses the 13” Briley rail, an IWC inline MLOK light mount, the light of your choosing mounted far forward on the ejection port side for a right hand shooter so the bezel or the light is flush with the muzzle. Then a Unity Tactical Hot Button is installed which is essentially a push button momentary/on/off button with a 9 inch wire routed to the left side rail roughly where you want your support hand thumb to reach. Slap on rail covers that you like on the MLOK and add a QD angled sling mount to the rail all the way forward at 9 o’clock. You’d have less risk of jamming your thumb, but not completely eliminated.