Drundel
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Posts
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Posts posted by Drundel
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NO! Once you load ammo in the mag, it will no close until you cycle the action. You can do it part way and you will see it lower.
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design. i like it, it quickly lets me know if i reloaded or not.
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yes its the plug, leave it alone and you're legal. three rounds total.
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I call BS on that one. I see more Berettas at the range than any other gun and clay shooters like new toys. They'd jump on a new pad in a sec. it was better than what they have.
I have an x-coil for my SBE and I really like it.
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Chester,
Shouldn't you be fixing the e-mail notification problem on the 'fuge instead of surfing here?
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Anyone else notice the slot on half of the locking head pin? I can't found anywhere that says it matters if its facing back or forward. Anyone know?
Thx
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cdogg44:
Yes, i learned that on my SBE1 so on the 2 I put camo tape all around it to act as a buffer, so far so good.
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It don't get cold where I hunt (PLEASE send us some, i hate hunting in the 70's in November, its just not natural), maybe 40s, MAYBE. The rails are the main metal-to-metal contact on the Benelli design and I like a little extra lube there and find grease lasts longer. Again, no cold, and it really doesn't attract dirt like you think it would.
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My SBE still will not sure the 7/8 loads. hoepfully soon it will.
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yes, SBE D=SBE2 C
where are you shooting? above or below?
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I had to get two different ones. The uncle mikes for the endcap, and one called " The Outdoor Connectoin" Sling Swivel for the stock.
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still special order. Trulock said they will be doing their first run in December of SBE2/M2 chokes.
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that hasn't happened to mine, but maybe get some plastic or silcon and put on it so it fits tigher?
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I would doubt much, they put out a lot of new products for '04, maybe some new accessories?
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I've shot a fair amount of Estate SWAT buckshot, its 9 pellits of 00 and is very low recoil and its worked everytime.
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yep. i use eiter tetra grease or miltec-1 grease on the rails.
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most camo have a double finish, so when the outer layer flakes off, there is an under layer that still keeps it from rusting. On the spots where its down to the metal, you don't really. just keep it clean best you can.
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Thats news to me sprigsss.
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turkey, yes it can be re-dipped. I think the cost is around $150 these days.
mudhen is a bit harsh but right, it won't last. Yea a molded camo would rock! **** the camo on my ATV is MUCH MUCH MUCH tougher than the dipping used on guns. As far as the metal, its gotta be some sort of metal treatment, not just a added material. I'm curious how rugers stainless O/U will hold up. I bet you could get that, put on some camo clad and it woudl last pretty good.
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Once mine goes, I'm gonna have it tefloned, it won't look at good, but it won't ever have to be dipped again.
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Its all film dipping, some might do a better job over others. I hade my SBE1 dipped, they double dipped it as do most other high end after market ones, not sure about the factory.
Actually, browning uses somethign different, its got texture to theirs right?
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[ 11-07-2004, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: Drundel ]
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Search here,
http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=5&forumid=11
I won't shoot HS so I never really noticed but i know its been posted up before.
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turkey:
My SBEII has the same thing at the end of the barrel. But I hate to tell you, unless you have it done aftermarket, its gonna look like that and after 4 hunts of in and out of gun cases and use its gonna have more marks than that.
changing shims
in Benelli
Posted
All the parts should share the same letter.
example: C-CDX-DX or C-CSX-SX
DX = right hand
SX = left hand
The SX and DX justs determines cast off for right or left hand.
Drop at heel:
Z = 50
A = 55
B = 60
C = 65