heavy4x4

Let me wade through the knee-high BS of Tucker's post and translate what he's really saying... Benelli, I love your guns and am your biggest spokesman. Now, will you contact me about testing some new guns already! Just kidding around Tucker. I know you appreciate this forum and that Benelli provides it for us. I think it's a super resource. And Mr. or Mrs. Benelli, if you're reading this, I'll take a free gun when you send Tucker his as well. -Steve [ 06-15-2006, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: heavy4x4 ]

69beers...great link...thanks! hahaha

I recommend getting yourself a tape or CD. Several companies offer a package deal...the call and the tape. Get one of those for starters. I learned to use diaphram calls for turkeys that way. Pop the tape into your vehicle as you drive to work/school and blow away on that call. So what if you look weird while you're driving...it's probably a more pleasant sound than you singing along to the radio. -Steve (P.S. You know you've gotten good when you hit a duck while driving)

Mercury recoil reducer and Sims pad will help. Only thing that will actually reduce recoil is added weight to the gun. That's the truth. If you want to shoot a 3.5" shell with 1.5 ounces plus of shot, you are going to have some serious recoil...especially in a gun built as light as the SBE I/II. Try some 3.5" shells with lower dram and or shot weight. Maybe even go with 3". You need to find a load you're comfortable shooting, otherwise you'll never be accurate with the gun. [ 01-16-2006, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: heavy4x4 ]

Benelli's customer service is generally pretty good for something like this. If you contact them, explain you just purchased the gun and were shorted the IC choke, I can see them sending you one.

Mudhen, My comment about cleaning a gun in the duck blind was more figurative than factual...settle down. My dad has used a Remington 1100 20 gauge for years without issue. I was just trying to give the guy some "ammo" against those who think gas guns reign superior in all areas. Benelli: performance worth the price. -Steve

I don't have exact numbers for you, but I have heard the SX2 is slightly faster than the SBE when it comes to cycling another shell into the chamber. How much faster, well, probably not much. Benelli's claim is that the SBE II is the fastest recovering shotgun, meaning you'll be able to get accurate shots off faster than someone with a competitor's gun. Because of the comfortech system and thus less barrel jump, you can get back on target faster. To those that think their SX2 is faster...let them think that. It actuality, it is. What matters though is how fast you can get back on the bird you're shooting at. You'll be able to do that better with the SBE. You'll be the last one laughing when they're cleaning out their gas ports in the duck blind after an afternoon of duck hunting and mis-cycled shells.

Fast enough for any game animal you could wish to hunt. By the time you get back on the bird/rabbit and pull the trigger, that next shell will be ready to go! [ 01-05-2006, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: heavy4x4 ]

I love my Benelli SBE, but in a pump-gun, NOTHING can match the value, durability, and flat-out performance of an 870. Get the 870.

What I read about Hevi-Shot (I did a lot of reading about Hevi-Shot prior to buying a box of 3 1/2" turkey loads for my SBE): - This stuff is better than lead shot because it's actually slightly more dense (read: heavier per volume) than lead. - The material composition makes the pellets much harder than lead...more comparable to steel shot. In some instances, scoring of the barrel and/or choke was witnessed. I recommend that you DO NOT send Hevi-Shot through choke tubes not approved for steel or Hevi-Shot explicitly. - Remington (not sure about other manufacturers) encapsulate the shot in the wad complete with a plastic cap on in front of the mass of shot to keep scoring of the barrel down to a minimum. What I think about Hevi-Shot: - Awesome stuff - Patterns well - Nothing beats blasting 3 1/2" shells - This stuff will GUNK up your barrel. I've never seen such a gooey, thick mess left in a barrel after 2 shots! Happy hunting/shooting, -Steve

It's easiest to pull off when the bolt is in the forward position. Pull hard. If you can't get it, I hear yanking on a shoe-string wrapped around it helps!

Start 'em young! Do a lot of reading online about how to train your dogs. Lots of people who do that for a living have written about it. Here's one of my own tips for you. When your dog gets nippy, do not let him chew on you (that's why they make chew toys). If he starts nipping on you, roll him on his back and put your hand on his chest (right near his armpits with your fingers on either side to keep him from rolling over...think of palming a basketball). With your hand there pin him to the ground until he stops squirming and trying to bite you. By holding him there, you've put your hand in a place that he can't reach with his mouth and he can't rollover either. This is a total submission position and dogs are not comfortable there. When he stops squirming and trying to bite you, he has just learned that YOU are the boss.

I have not run across any online step-by-step stuff with pictures...mainly because I haven't looked. I'm sure someone's got something out there. You will need two liquids for cleaning your gun...a gun cleaning solvent like Hoppe's #9 and the Benelli (or other brand) gun oil. When you clean the barrel, the gun cleaning solvent comes first...then the oil. You may use the Benelli oil on all other parts of the gun if you so choose. You asked about "mops" and I can only assume you're talking about those white-colored poofy things that attach to the end of you cleaning rod. I generally use those for only applying oil to the inside of the barrel (after I've cleaned with the solvent). Some people use them to actually clean the barrel, but they get dirty very fast if you do that. I use gun cleaning swabs or torn-up old shirts to clean the barrel (I also use these to apply the oil rather than use the "mops") -Steve

These inertia guns are easy to clean. First take off the barrel and disassemble the bolt assembly according to your owners manual. Barrel: Run a brass brush dipped in gun-cleaning solvent down your barrel 2-3 times. Let that sit for a minute to let the solvent work. Then, push gun cleaning pads through the barrel until they come out relatively clean. Once they come out clean, take one final pad and spray it with some gun oil (Benelli or otherwise). Run that down the inside of the barrel to lightly coat and protect it. The barrel is done, set that aside. Bolt: With the various pieces of your bolt sitting on the table, wipe off any visible fouling with a clean rag. Take an old toothbrush with some gun cleaning solvent and brush the spring, rotating bolt head, etc. Wipe off remaining solvent. Apply 1-2 drops of oil to the inertia spring and firing pin. Assemble bolt and set aside...bolt is done. Trigger assembly: I don't disassemble my trigger assembly, but you can if you feel ambitious. The owners manual tells you at least how to remove it from the gun. I just wipe down any areas that I can get to and apply 1 drop of oil on the trigger springs and surfaces that see wear. Before you assemble, put one drop of oil on the little "cup" that the bar on the bolt rests in (on top of the recoil spring). Assemble gun as per Benelli instructions and give the entire outside of the gun a good wipe with a rag w/ gun oil on it. Happy hunting/shooting, -Steve [ 09-01-2005, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: heavy4x4 ]

I would. If nothing else, it will help you get to know the inner workings of your gun. Here's what I'd do: -Yank out bolt handle -Remove barrel and clean -Slide out bolt assembly -Holding your thumb over the rear of the firing pin, take out the side-pin (make sure you hold your finger over the firing pin...or at least don't have the thing pointed at your face) -Remove rotating bolt head, firing pin, and inertia spring from bolt -Apply a light (1-2 drops) coating of oil to inside of bolt where spring goes -Apply 1 drop of oil to spring & firing pin -Assemble bolt -Apply 1 drop of oil to the "cup" that the bar attached to the bolt sits in -Apply 1 drop of oil to the various trigger springs -Assemble rest of gun -Shoot and enjoy [ 09-01-2005, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: heavy4x4 ]