wallhanger53

The difference in the Nova to the Supernova rattling issue is not the screws in the forend. The receiver and the forend on the Supernova have been redesigned in the area you can't see when the gun is fully assembled. The area where the forend overlaps the receiver when the forend is fully foreward has been beefed up. The forend has 4 small plastic pads on the inside and the receiver has a fitted contact pad on each side for the forend to come into contact with. Therefore, when the forend is locked foreward, there will be tension holding the forend in place keeping it from rattling while not hindering the pump action speed when loading or ejecting.

Rem oil is rather thin and if the gun is new, you might want to be more liberal with a better or thicker oil like Miltec. Make sure you get some oil into the recoil assembly too, it's mostly responsible for feeding the next shell into the chamber.

How good of a painter are you? Most hobby stores have flat enamel paint in small bottles that are close in color or you can mix them to get the correct tone. You can use a small thin brush or a cut off Q-tip to paint with. I have used these for other people with quite good success.

Last report from CS said they were having trouble with production and none are available yet. They are sold by BenelliUSA but made here in the states not made by Benelli. The only Benelli factory barrel is the one with the open sights which works better anyway IMHO.

You can't "remove" the rust. Bluing isrust. It's just black iron oxide instead of red iron oxide. If you use a rust remover it will take the bluing off. If it's just a little rust, put oil on it and lightly rub it with some 000 or 0000 steel wool or just a good rag. You probably didn't have much oil on it to start with, and flat finishes soak up oil. If it's pitted or badly rusted you might want to have it bead blasted and reblued and that usually doesn't cost too much. I've had a plain ol synthetic SBE for 6 years and have treated it with Breakfree and Militec, I duck and deer hunt in the worst conditions sometimes and live in a saltwater environment and no rust yet.

I never find any need to use a solvent to clean my barrel. I just use a Stainless steel Hoppes Tornado brush. Use it dry, no solvent, and it will remove all plastic, lead and carbon fouling without harming the chrome lining. Afterwards, I just use a bore mop to wipe out the dust. And yes, that stuff can hurt your camo. If you want to clean the outside, I'd just use mild soap and water. BTW, bug sprays aren't too good for camo finishes either.

Wow! After it was used for 2 duck hunting seasons? Duck hunters can be the hardest on guns... not cleaning them and such. I would suspect the magazine assembly. Just check to make sure the follower isn't in backwards. I have seen this happen many times after someone has cleaned the gun and had trouble on the last round. It doesnt help the fact that Benelli insists on putting that crappy plastic follower in either. Also, just try to operate the gun normally (2 in the mag, 1 in the pipe) to see if it works that way.

Hello Tucker and Mudhen. Yes, I know it's been a while since you've seen me. I'm still the old wallhanger54 but since I changed ISPs and couldn't remember my password I had to start from scratch again with a new name. Hope to see you around the forum. As for yet another answer to this fellas question about the Nova. Try shooting the same ammo without the extension. If it does not stick then there may be a solution. Sometimes, the actual extended tube that screws into the connector which screws onto the magazine tube is too long. The way to check...with the mag extension on the gun and tight, unscrew only the extended part of the tube 1 or 2 turns from the connector. If you can then tighten the connector a few clicks then you will have found your problem. What is happening is that the barrel is not firmly seated and is not allowing the chamber to fully support the shell allowing the shell to expand. Two ways to fix it....1. Take out the mag spring , put the barrel on with the extension and the connector tight to the barrel and the extended part of the tube loose so you know the barrel is seated properly. Remove the tube extension, put some red Loctite on the threads (not too much) and screw it back in until it is snug finger tight, not torqued. 2. You can also remove the extended part of the tube and file some metal from the part that meets the factory tube, but just enough so that it completely screws in flush without binding. You dont want a big gap inside your magazine for the follower to get stuck on. That being said, polishing the chamber isn't a bad idea either, it keeps them from being finicky. Hope this helps.