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Penguin81

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About Penguin81

  • Birthday 11/08/1978

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    Arlington, VA

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  1. If you already have the skeleton stock and are just looking for the recoil tube to allow the stock to collapse, then the 2 position tube is the correct part. The third collapsible position that the seller is talking about may be the disassembly notch, which will lightly hold the stock in that location, but it is not a good idea to fire from this position. I bought my 2 position tube from Numrich. There you can get either the complete assembly or just plain tube. If you buy the plain tube, you are going to need to transplant the recoil spring and other parts from the factory tube. I bought the plain tube, but have been unable to remove the factory tube from my Limited Edition M1014. Just be aware that removal of the factory part can be a bit tricky. Here's a link to the part I bought. http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=1049680&chrSuperSKU=&MC=
  2. ApexinM3, It was good to meet you and I'm glad to hear those passes were well used! Thanks for the vote of confidence. I would certainly hate to have deprived you of your PMAG fund. - Penguin
  3. I bought this tube around December 07 and it’s just been sitting in my cabinet, so I decided to sell it. If anyone wants it, let me know and I’ll PM you payment information.
  4. You know... I actually tried that single point sling attachment and the gun weight wasn't the problem. The weight might have gotten to me quickly, but I didn't get that far. For me, it was the fact that the nut that stuck out on the right side would scrape and dig into my trigger finger every time I fired the gun. I removed that part fast after getting home and seeing the bruise on the side of my finger. I've pretty much gotten the gun the way I want and I've been meaning to post a review of everything I've added and done so other could see. One of these days I'll get off my lazy butt.
  5. Removing the stock magazine tube is pretty easy. You just need a heat gun and maybe 10 minutes. Heat the receiver near the magazine and it doesn't take a lot to break the thread-locker compound. If you have a device to take temperatures, you're looking for, tops, 200 F on the receiver. The magazine tube came off by hand, no strap wrench needed. Gloves are a good idea, but mostly in case you forget and touch right on where you're heating. The rest of the tube didn't get that hot. The real pain is removing the recoil tube, at which I have yet to succeed.
  6. If you remove the recoil spring, then the tube is left unobstructed, so yes, you could spray gun scrubber in there. Home Depot is where I got my pliers.
  7. My M1014 had a 5 round tube, but with a 1 round limiter inside the tube. Again, the snap-ring pliers will get the magazine spring cap out and you can easily remove the red plastic limited found there. If you're asking if the Marine M1014 is 6 or 7 rounds... I'm pretty sure it's 7. All of the after market tubes will hold 7 shells of the correct length. Some people found out that different 2 3/4 shells are actually slightly different length. I too am going for an authentic gun so that's why I prefer the Numrich tube. The finish matches the gun perfectly. I've got some pictures I plan to add later. I have no idea what the recoil tube assembly is made of. If you really, really wanted to clean it out, I think you'd have to remove the spring to get to the inside of the tube. It's pretty well sealed off by the bolt cup or whatever and the recoil spring cap. The snap-ring is covered in the exploded parts diagram of the manual, but it's removal isn't because that's really not part of normal maintenance. It's really self explanatory when you see it. The snap-ring just keeps the recoil spring cap from ever backing completely out. I have no reason to doubt the functionality of the Numrich tube. I haven't shot thousands of rounds in field conditions, so I can't guarantee your life on it, but it's a pretty simple part that looks exactly like the factory part. I don't know of any after market tubes that are longer than the barrel. The way the assembly of the gun works, it would be pretty difficult if not impossible to make a longer magazine tube fit properly onto the gun.
  8. Unobtanium, I bought a SocomGuy tube and a Numrich tube and I'm keeping the Numrich one. Numrich sells two tubes, one is not available for civilian purchase. That may have been the one you saw posted about in '06. The civilian-available replacement tube I bought just a few months ago and I'm pretty sure they still have them. Also, the Numrich tube I got was a 7 round one, not 6. Your other options for a magazine tube include Dave's Metal Works and probably one other one that I can't remember. Removing the recoil spring is not hard, you just need a pair of snap-ring pliers. You remove the stock, then use the snap-ring pliers on the snap ring at the base of the recoil tube. Then you unscrew the cap inside the tube and the spring comes out. Be careful, the cap is under pressure from the recoil spring, so you don't want that injuring you. The trigger guard is metal. If the real M4 you are referring to is the M1014, then the M1014 has a fixed choke, while the civilian M4 Super 90 has the interchangeable ones.
  9. I bought a Numrich tube and the finish matches up perfectly. Better than any other I have found. I've only shot the gun a few times, so I'm still determining durability of the finish, but the gun does look nice.
  10. d, After two years, how has this mod held up for you? I just found this post and I think it's a great idea. If you still like this configuration, any suggestions or tips on the install would be appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Yeah, I figured removing the tube shouldn't be this difficult, so I wanted to check before I did any more. I'll probably just leave it be since all I gain is the closed position, which is more for transport, really.
  12. I’ve been trying to remove the recoil tube on my M1014 receiver for about two weeks now and I’m not having any luck. Part of the problem is that I don’t think I’m getting the parts hot enough. I’ve gotten the recoil tube up to 400F, but only for a few moments before it cooled quickly. The second heat gun I borrowed can only get the parts up to 350F. I just realized that the stripped receiver and recoil tube are small enough to put in the oven, where I can easily heat the parts for long periods of time at the desired temperature. My questions are: To what temperature should I heat the parts? Over 400? 425? Is there any potential for damaging the finish or causing weaknesses in the receiver by heating it multiple times in my attempts to remove this tube? Thanks for the input.
  13. Cool, thanks. I think those were the guys I remember reading about before. Do you mind me asking how much milling one extra position is? All I need is extra positions on the Numrich tube.
  14. Actually, the Progressive Machine & Tool part from Brownells is black, at least according to the specs on the site.
  15. M1014, I find that the factory bolt handle is a little too small for my comfort. I actually managed to get the side of my finger pinched in the action as I pulled back on the bolt because I couldn't get a proper grasp on the factory part. Probably fixable with training, but I'd also like to explore other options since the factory part didn't come across as the most natural feel to me. Deldorado, thanks for the offer, but I think I'd prefer a uniform cylinder handle. Something else I though of... does anyone know of a good source to mill extra stock positions into a recoil tube? I haven't been able to replace my M1014 part yet, but I'm still working on it. I figure for all the trouble the M1014 recoil tube has given me, I'd like to get a little more functionality out of the collapsible stock than just open and closed
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