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Everything posted by Penguin81

  1. If you already have the skeleton stock and are just looking for the recoil tube to allow the stock to collapse, then the 2 position tube is the correct part. The third collapsible position that the seller is talking about may be the disassembly notch, which will lightly hold the stock in that location, but it is not a good idea to fire from this position. I bought my 2 position tube from Numrich. There you can get either the complete assembly or just plain tube. If you buy the plain tube, you are going to need to transplant the recoil spring and other parts from the factory tube.
  2. ApexinM3, It was good to meet you and I'm glad to hear those passes were well used! Thanks for the vote of confidence. I would certainly hate to have deprived you of your PMAG fund. - Penguin
  3. I bought this tube around December 07 and it’s just been sitting in my cabinet, so I decided to sell it. If anyone wants it, let me know and I’ll PM you payment information.
  4. You know... I actually tried that single point sling attachment and the gun weight wasn't the problem. The weight might have gotten to me quickly, but I didn't get that far. For me, it was the fact that the nut that stuck out on the right side would scrape and dig into my trigger finger every time I fired the gun. I removed that part fast after getting home and seeing the bruise on the side of my finger. I've pretty much gotten the gun the way I want and I've been meaning to post a review of everything I've added and done so other could see. One of these days I'll get off my lazy
  5. Removing the stock magazine tube is pretty easy. You just need a heat gun and maybe 10 minutes. Heat the receiver near the magazine and it doesn't take a lot to break the thread-locker compound. If you have a device to take temperatures, you're looking for, tops, 200 F on the receiver. The magazine tube came off by hand, no strap wrench needed. Gloves are a good idea, but mostly in case you forget and touch right on where you're heating. The rest of the tube didn't get that hot. The real pain is removing the recoil tube, at which I have yet to succeed.
  6. If you remove the recoil spring, then the tube is left unobstructed, so yes, you could spray gun scrubber in there. Home Depot is where I got my pliers.
  7. My M1014 had a 5 round tube, but with a 1 round limiter inside the tube. Again, the snap-ring pliers will get the magazine spring cap out and you can easily remove the red plastic limited found there. If you're asking if the Marine M1014 is 6 or 7 rounds... I'm pretty sure it's 7. All of the after market tubes will hold 7 shells of the correct length. Some people found out that different 2 3/4 shells are actually slightly different length. I too am going for an authentic gun so that's why I prefer the Numrich tube. The finish matches the gun perfectly. I've got some pictures I p
  8. Unobtanium, I bought a SocomGuy tube and a Numrich tube and I'm keeping the Numrich one. Numrich sells two tubes, one is not available for civilian purchase. That may have been the one you saw posted about in '06. The civilian-available replacement tube I bought just a few months ago and I'm pretty sure they still have them. Also, the Numrich tube I got was a 7 round one, not 6. Your other options for a magazine tube include Dave's Metal Works and probably one other one that I can't remember. Removing the recoil spring is not hard, you just need a pair of snap-ring pliers.
  9. I bought a Numrich tube and the finish matches up perfectly. Better than any other I have found. I've only shot the gun a few times, so I'm still determining durability of the finish, but the gun does look nice.
  10. d, After two years, how has this mod held up for you? I just found this post and I think it's a great idea. If you still like this configuration, any suggestions or tips on the install would be appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Yeah, I figured removing the tube shouldn't be this difficult, so I wanted to check before I did any more. I'll probably just leave it be since all I gain is the closed position, which is more for transport, really.
  12. I’ve been trying to remove the recoil tube on my M1014 receiver for about two weeks now and I’m not having any luck. Part of the problem is that I don’t think I’m getting the parts hot enough. I’ve gotten the recoil tube up to 400F, but only for a few moments before it cooled quickly. The second heat gun I borrowed can only get the parts up to 350F. I just realized that the stripped receiver and recoil tube are small enough to put in the oven, where I can easily heat the parts for long periods of time at the desired temperature. My questions are: To what temperature should I heat
  13. Cool, thanks. I think those were the guys I remember reading about before. Do you mind me asking how much milling one extra position is? All I need is extra positions on the Numrich tube.
  14. Actually, the Progressive Machine & Tool part from Brownells is black, at least according to the specs on the site.
  15. M1014, I find that the factory bolt handle is a little too small for my comfort. I actually managed to get the side of my finger pinched in the action as I pulled back on the bolt because I couldn't get a proper grasp on the factory part. Probably fixable with training, but I'd also like to explore other options since the factory part didn't come across as the most natural feel to me. Deldorado, thanks for the offer, but I think I'd prefer a uniform cylinder handle. Something else I though of... does anyone know of a good source to mill extra stock positions into a recoil tube? I
  16. I’d like to replace the bolt handle on my M1014 and I’ve seen people talk about how the GG&G unit doesn’t fit perfectly. That was a while ago and I just wanted to see if that was ever a real problem and if so, if it had been addressed. http://www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=112&parents=60,63 I’m also interested in experience with the Progressive Machine & Tool unit listed on Brownells. Can anyone comment on the installation fit of this piece? http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=22928&s= The other part I’m interested in is the Celtic Mist
  17. From what I understand you just need to heat the receiver anywhere from 180 to 350 F to get the thread locker to let go. Some people have then been able to use just their gloved hands, but sometimes a strap wrench, to then unscrew the part. I've also seen recommendations to heat the receiver and not the tube to keep the tube from expanding inside the receiver, making it easier to remove. Once the part is out, clean the threads and you're good to go. This applies for removing the magazine tube too.
  18. Thanks for the information guys. Follow-up questions: M1014, do you know how your buddy swapped the parts and if he ran into the same problem as fiavaim? M1014 and fiavaim, how many stock positions does the Numrich part allow? How is the part quality compared to the stock piece? Thanks again.
  19. Does anyone have experience with transplanting the internal parts of the recoil spring tube assembly into a new recoil tube body? If so, how difficult is it? I would like to replace the recoil tube on my Benelli M1014 with the recoil tube from Numrich and I’m trying to decide if I should buy just the tube body or the whole tube assembly. Also, does anyone have experience with the quality and fit of the Numrich recoil tube? Thanks.
  20. Looks like a Gear Sector Modular Attachment Point in that picture. I’ve got both the single point ASP and two-point GS-2P and they are great. I really like that I can use the attachments in any combination on any gun. The build quality is sturdy and the design is well thought out. The adjustability of the GS-2P is nice too. I don’t think that particular stock adapter is listed on the website, but if you call the owner, Jason, he’ll fill you in. He’s a real nice guy to deal with. If you want some reviews, I know AR15.com has them and weaponevolution.com, where that pic is from, t
  21. I’d really like a fully functional M4. Since the news about civilian sales of the 11707, I’ve spent the last few days scouring this site to figure out how to legally go about adding the collapsible stock and full capacity magazine. From what I understand, if I don’t want to make an SBS, I would need to add US made parts to the gun, like a full length magazine tube, magazine follower, and hammer/disconnector/trigger kit to be under the 10 part import limit of the 922r. This would then allow me to either add or make the skeletonized stock collapsible. Even with a SBS, I am left with
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