StrangerDanger

Gesselle Hammer, Freedom Fighter Tactical Hammer & OEM Benelli Hammer Compared. Here is a basic guide for greasing your sear contact points in your Trigger Pack. A small amount of grease in these locations will help keep your trigger feeling great. I am partial to Brian Enos' Slide Glide.

Benelli OEM Trigger (bottom) and Freedom Fighter Tactical 922® Trigger (top) Compared. Benelli OEM Disconnector (right) and Freedom fighter Tactical 922® Disconnector (left) Compared.

At this point the Trigger Assembly has been fully reassembled. Any time you mess with the Trigger pack, I highly recommend you perform the following safety tests at least three times; Make sure the weapon is unloaded. Ensure the Hammer is cocked. Place the weapon on Safe, pull the trigger, the Hammer should not fall. Place the weapon on Fire, pull the trigger, the Hammer should fall. Place the weapon on Fire, pull the trigger and hold the trigger to the rear. The Hammer should fall. With your finger still holding the trigger to the rear, rack the bolt to re-cock the hammer. Slowly let your finger off of the trigger. There should be an audible click noise. This is the Hammer disconnecting from the disconnector sear and engaging the trigger sear. I recommend doing this with the trigger pack removed as well. Never allow the Hammer to fall without your thumb controlling its descent. You should be mentally aware of how the disconnector and trigger sears are engaged by the hammer sears. You may find this parts diagram useful;

Now it is time to engage the Shell Release Lever Spring onto the Shell Release Lever. I use a dental tool to hook the leg of the Shell Release Lever Spring. You could make due with a paperclip if needed.

You will know the Trigger Pin Bushing is fully seated when you can see the notches for the Trigger Guard Pin Spring. Here the Trigger Guard Pin Spring has been reinstalled onto the Trigger Pin Bushing.

This picture has an arrow to the Shell Release Lever’s hook that must be engaged on top of the Hammer Spring Cap. Begin cocking the Hammer with your thumb until the Hammer Spring Cap is compressed enough for the Shell Release Lever to hook over the top of the Hammer Spring Cap. Once this happens, press the Trigger Pin Bushing the rest of the way into the Trigger Guard.

Insert the Trigger Pin Bushing from the right side into the Shell Release Lever, Carrier, Trigger Guard, Hammer, Trigger Guard and Carrier. It will take some time to align everything without the Breech Latch falling out. Expect some cussing here. You can try using an alignment pin from the opposite side if needed. The Trigger Pin Bushing will not press all the way in yet because the Shell Release Lever hasn’t been seated onto the top of the Hammer Spring Cap yet.

Insert the Shell Release Lever into the Trigger Guard. Do not bother trying to install the Shell Release Spring yet. Enjoying the balancing act and aligning of half a dozen parts yet? Here is the Trigger Pin Bushing.

Drop the Hammer into the Trigger Guard. Here is the Shell Release Lever.

Insert the Hammer Spring and Hammer Spring Cap into the Trigger Guard. Here is the Hammer.

Here the Carrier Spring and the Carrier Plunger are installed. Pay attention to the highlighted spring stop. This must be next to the Breech Latch, or the Trigger Group will not function. The Carrier Plunger & Spring are simply held in place by the Carrier. If you allow the Trigger Group to move around too much, it will simply fall out. Here is the Hammer Spring and Hammer Spring Cap assembled. The Cap simply fits over the top of the spring.

Here the Breech Latch Pin is in place and retaining the Breech Latch to the Carrier. Realign the mounting holes.

Move the Carrier so that it is in the position shown in the photograph above. This will allow you to attach the Breech Latch, and insert the Breech Latch Pin.

Assembly of the Carrier This is the basic assembly of the Carrier. Insert the Carrier into the Trigger Guard and roughly align the mounting holes together.

Here the Shell Release Lever Spring has been placed into the Trigger Guard. Press the Front Trigger Pin fully into position. This will retain the Shell Release Lever Spring.

You need to insert the Front Trigger Pin to the point shown in the photograph. This will allow you to install the Shell Release Lever Spring. Shell Release Lever Spring

A 3/32" punch was inserted thru the Front Trigger Pin hole to align the Trigger Assembly with the Trigger Guard. Insert the Front Trigger Pin into the opposite side of the Trigger Guard as your 3/32" alignment punch. Press the alignment punch out with the Trigger Pin.

This shows how the Rear Trigger Pin and the Trigger fit together. Here we are inserting the Trigger Assembly into the Trigger Guard. Note that you must rock the Trigger Assembly into place. Engage the Rear Trigger Pin in the square notch of the Trigger, and rotate the Trigger Assembly into the Trigger Guard. Be careful not to dislodge the Trigger Spring.

Make sure the Trigger Pin is flush with the Trigger Guard. This view shows you how the Rear Trigger Pin engages the back side of the Trigger. The Rear Trigger Pin acts as an overtravel and pretravel stop for the Trigger.

Here the Trigger Assembly is assembled. The Trigger Spring simply presses into the hole at the base of the trigger. Tap the Rear Trigger Pin into the Trigger Guard.

You cannot see it, but the punch is still partially in the Trigger Assembly holding the Disconnector in place. Manipulating the Disconnector Pin is very hard since it is so small. Fortunately, the fit into the trigger isn’t very tight. You can press the pin in with finger pressure only. The trick is to get the hole aligned while they’re under spring tension. When viewing the hole from the opposite side you have the Disconnector Pin started in, you can visually align the holes as you press it the rest of the way in.

The Disconnector is then seated into the Trigger Assembly loosely. Side note: Note the hook like features on the right side of the Disconnector and on the right side of the Trigger. These hooks (or sears) are what engage the hooks on the Hammer. As the bolt cycles to the rear, the Hammer pivots back. The Hammer's hook presses against the top of the Disconnector. The Disconnector then compresses against the Disconnector Spring and Disconnector Plunger. This rocks the Disconnector to the rear and allows the Hammer's hook to slip past the Disconnector. If the Trigger is still being pulled to the rear, the Hammer Hook will engage the Disconnector's sear. If the Trigger has been released, the Hammer will disconnect from the Disconnector's sear and be caught by the sear on the front of the Trigger. To help visualize what is happening, make sure your M4 is empty. Cycle the bolt to ensure the hammer is cocked. Press the trigger and hold it to the rear. Without letting off of the trigger, cycle the bolt and allow it to return to battery. This simulates a round has been fired. Cycling the bolt has recocked the hammer. Since you are still holding the trigger to the rear, the hammer hook is being held by the Disconnector's Sear. Now, let off on the trigger slowly and listen for the audible click noise. This sound is the hammer hook disconnecting from the Disconnector and engaging the Trigger Sear. The weapon can now be fired again by pressing the trigger. Some may be wondering what the purpose of the Disconnector is. If the Disconnector was not present on the M4, the hammer would fall forward and ride the bolt carrier into battery if the trigger was still held to the rear when the bolt cocks the hammer. The M4 would not go full auto without the Disconnector. The hammer is faster than the bolt, so you'd simply end up with a live round in the chamber, and the hammer decocked. Needless to say, you would not be happy. I recommend taking your trigger pack out, and manipulate the hammer. Observe how it makes contact with the Disconnector and Trigger sears. Cock the Hammer with the trigger pulled to the rear and with the trigger in its rest position. Using a 1/16" punch as an alignment tool helps to align the Disconnector with the Trigger.

Without the Trigger Assembly in the Trigger Guard, you can see how the Safety Plunger interacts with the Safety Button. When you push the safety on and off, you are Safety Plunger is forced into the raised edge of the Safety. This causes the Safety Plunger to compress against the Safety Spring. Trigger Assembly Reassembly Now we are moving on to reassembling the Trigger Group. Here the Disconnector Spring and Disconnector Plunger have been inserted into the Trigger. Apply some grease around the base of the Disconnector Plunger.

Once the Safety Plunger Spring is retained under the pin, you can hammer the Safety Plunger Pin the rest of the way in. I really like these Brownell’s Roll Pin Starters. The nipple on the bottom keeps the punch from slipping off the pin. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-starter-punches-prod20640.aspx Here the Safety Plunger Pin is flush with the Trigger Guard.

This image overlay shows exactly what you are doing with the Safety Plunger Spring and the Safety Plunger. You must compress the Safety Plunger Spring while you tap the Safety Plunger Pin into place. If you do not compress the spring, you will damage the Safety Plunger Spring when the Safety Plunger Pin drives into the side of it. There are various ways to accomplish this. I found this Magna-tip from Brownells works the best to compress the spring and allow me to tap the pin in. If you do not have this particular bit, you can try to use a small punch or dental picks to keep the spring compressed while you hammer the pin into place. Expect to swear a little here. It’s a pain in the ass. Link to Brownells: 080-431WB S&W Rear Sight Spanner (2 per pak) It is hard to see the top of the Safety Plunger Spring in this picture. You must keep the spring compressed while drifting the pin into place or you’ll be buying a new spring.