StrangerDanger

I found the bit with the sanding drum to work very well. I then hand polished it with some 2000 grit sand paper.

This is why carriercomp stopped accepting orders. Their capacity to deliver the items was far exceeding their ability to produce them. There was also some issue in obtaining the raw materials to produce them. I have four of them on order for a project I'm working on from 02/17/2013. Hopefully they'll ship some time in the next month since 02/01/2013 orders are reportedly shipping.

They advise to use the index finger? I always used my thumb to press the latch to eject the shell. Seems like the thumb would give you a lot more leverage. Place your fingers on the outside of the receiver so you're basically pinching the shell stop lever. The modification did make it a little easier to eject the shells. It always seems that the last shell in the magazine tube is the most difficult to eject. I'm not opposed to taking off more material in an attempt to make it a little easier. I just don't want to take it too far and ruin the part. Also, I tried drop testing it on the butt stock to try to cause the shells to eject unintentionally. No issues were encountered so far.

truckcop is correct. Usually I use an adjustable wrench so you can prevent the button pad from trying to torque while you unscrew the fastener. Just open the wrench so it fights tightly around the top and bottom edges of the button pad.

Roughly where I ground out with a cutting wheel:

Before I did anything: After:

I treaded into this area this morning carefully. I tried option #3 first, and didn't really notice much of a difference in loading 'feel.' I didn't feel comfortable enlarging the U notches too much. I then tried option #2, and ground down the center of the stop. I gave it a nice sloped ramp leading into the follower. After several fit attempts, I enlarged the ramp to the point where it was noticeably easier to load. The rounds click firmly into place once pressed past the stop. I expect to see an improvement in speed loading from my California competition loader.

Benelliwerkes, I figured you would probably have a bunch of experience with the shell stop of the Benellis. My shell stop has always been pretty stiff to press rounds past. This slows loading/unloading down. I've been doing some research on how to resolve this problem and found there are a few schools of thought; 1. Bend the shell stop approximately where the pin flex cut is ahead of the retaining pin. This reduces the amount of purchase area on the face of the shell stop. 2. Grind the face of the shell stop in the center. This leaves the geometry the same, but leaves a smaller amount of shell contact. 3. Another option is to enlarge the flex cuts so the steel has more flex in it. Supposedly this allows the stop to flex more. Currently, the shell stop I have is from GG&G, which is a factory modified part. The unit was then coated in Nickel Boron, then surface polished. Do you have any advice on which method is best to attempt? Perhaps some pictures if you've done it before to get a general idea on how to grinde the stop? Anyone else can chime in if they have experience in this area too. Thanks

Exactly. The issue with cocking the hammer is it is difficult to get the tail of the bolt over the hammer when it is decocked.

Understood. It will pull out just fine. Without the bolt present, the trigger group won't make contact with anything. Is this an attempt to keep the weapon in immaculate condition?

You mean just pull the trigger group out of the receiver? Eith way is fine. If you mean actually taking the trigger group apart, then I would say only do this with the hammer released.

I broke my original GG&G bolt release. The button broke free and was free spinning. I contacted GG&G and the promptly replaced it approximately 8 years after I bought it. When making adjustments to the pad, I recommend holding the pad with a wrench on the flats. This will take the load off of the pressed in place button.

Those square would work well. If you are using a piece of all thread for a rod, I recommend wrapping the exposed thread with painters tape to protect your work.

My concern with those polishing bits is they are pretty low grit levels. 180 grit is pretty rough stuff. Plus, you'd have a hard time getting into the center of the magazine tube. You'd need to rig up some sort of extension/chuck. Brownell's had some polishing brushes that looked like this, but they are pretty expensive and I'm not sure if the diameter would be exactly what you need.

Here you can order a replacement rubber grip from a place like Numrich Arms for 25 bucks or so. Not sure if you can get them there. Depending on how rough you are on the weapon, the grips should last for years. I notice mine get kind of gritty from Arizona sand getting ground into them. Hot soapy water can restore them to some degree. The magazine springs will take a set over time. Even the Wolff springs carriercomp spec'ed will take a set. They'll be noticeably shorter than a new one in a short period of time. Function will usually be determined by how strong the last shell in the magazine tube ejects onto the elevator.

I saw that as well. It isn't a personal insult. When I'm having trouble with sighting a weapon in, I have someone else try it to take the user variable out of the equation.

Interesting. I'll keep an eye on it. I had considered trying to get a bore hone, but they're really expensive. The trouble is actually getting sand paper or polish media evenly worked inside of a tube.

My wife had issues shooting the M4 with low recoil rounds. We attributed it to her inability to shoulder it firmly enough. You can attempt to induce a failure by doing some unsupported hip firing to see if it causes the malfunction to occur. Perhaps find a nice tree to put the stock against, or an experienced shooter to see if the issue remains with that particular ammunition. The charging handle weights will affect the performance of the M4. Long ago I had the GG&G handle. I could literally hear the difference in cyclic rate. It seems Salient is chasing these kind of weight games for their carrier's. They've machined a significant amount of the bolt carrier away to reduce weight.

Now, this isn't rocket science, so I don't feel I need to show every step of the way. Put your cleaning rod in the drill chuck with the brush installed. Now cut sections of the steel wool and wrap it around the brush. You want enough on the end of the brush so that it presses tightly into the magazine tube. Smear some of the lowest grip polishing media you have onto the steel wool or into the end of the magazine tube. Push the steel wool brush assembly into the magazine tube. Start out slow to make sure you can get the hang of the vibration caused by the unevenly wrapped steel wool. You may wish to wrap the threaded end of the magazine tube with painters tape if you're concerned about accidentally making contact. I ran my drill on high for about 10 minutes on each side of the magazine tube. I then wiped the tube out, threw away the steel wool, re-wrapped it and moved up to the 800 grit paste. I followed this same routine through the 1000 grit paste as well. Once this was complete, I wiped the tube out thoroughly with hot soapy water to remove any paste left behind. The inside of the magazine tube is nearly a mirror finish from top to bottom. Feeling with your finger, you can tell the definite improvement in surface smoothness. Upon re-installation of the weapon, there was an immediate difference in feeling when ejecting the shells onto the elevator. You actually feel the weapon kick back with authority from the last shell in the magazine tube. The magazine tube still has that raspy spring scratching noise when loading shells. Shell loading is improved a minor amount. You can feel that they are easier to press in. Overall, I found it to be a worth while technique to improve weapon reliability.

You need the following shop materials to perform this task. I purchased some 0000 steel wool from Walmart for about three bucks. You are going to need some polishing paste. I purchased this from Brownells a while back. I have three different grits. The 600, 800 and 1000 grit. You are going to need an electric drill gun, a section of cleaning rod at least 10 inches long that you can put in the drill chuck. A 12 gauge brush that fits the cleaning rod as well. Recommend eye protection as well.

I figured I'd share this basic gunsmithing technique to enhance reliability in pretty much any shotgun that is fed from a magazine tube. Generally, I avoid doing this technique on steel magazine tubes since it can remove the protective finish and you may face rusting issues depending on your climate. Magazine tubes like the titanium tubes from carriercomp and FFT benefit from this the most. Titanium tends to gall against other metal surfaces. This can diminish the strength of the shell delivery system. For an example, insert one shell into your magazine tube. Now, use the shell release to eject a shell onto the elevator. Listen to how it sounds, how it feels, and how far back the shell it ejected onto the elevator. Compare this to how it feels when your magazine tube is full and under full spring tension. Another issue that is commonly misunderstood about the magazine tube is you do not want any kind of lubricant whatsoever inside of it. If you have a steel tube that is prone to rusting, you may apply a surface coating of a rust inhibitor. Lubricant breeds an environment for debris to be present inside the magazine tube. This can turn into a sticky situation that will slow down the shell delivery system. How many times have you heard people claim the weapon works great until the last shell in the magazine tube? These are signs that one of the following problems exists; 1. The magazine tube is dirty 2. The magazine spring is incorrect or worn out 3. Friction inside of the magazine tube is retarding the shell delivery 4. The magazine tube or follower is bent or damaged To really squeeze the very best performance out of your magazine tube, you'll need to polish the full length of the magazine tube. When you look inside you tube, it looks and feels to be pretty smooth. Take a look at my three or four year old carriercomp titanium magazine tube. Notice the oxidation and dull looking finish? These imperfections drag on the spring, the follower and even the shells as they slide down the magazine tube towards the shell stop. We intend to fix this and test exactly what kind of end user improvements are felt. To do this job correctly, you need to remove the magazine tube from the weapon. Without doing so, you'll be making a huge mess that will be difficult to clean up. You'll be stuck using a longer length of rod to do the internal polishing as well. It isn't going to work well. Having a vice is pretty much mandatory. The tube will be getting hot and it will be difficult to hold the tube still while you're performing the high speed polishing. A padded vice is ideal, but you can get by with some shop rags. Do not crush the tube to the point that you cause damage.

I'll do $300 for the collapsible stock and the receiver extension. I have a brand new pistol grip stock to send as well. The stock was taken off a brand new 11707 before it was ever fired.

I have had a Promag stock on order since February, not sure if they are ever going to make more or not. So I would go with your first option. The FFT parts are of good quality. The trigger components will give you a slightly lighter trigger pull as well. I would rather the titanium magazine tube, but understand the need for cost savings.

I agree with BLACK. Part it out and sell it off. Upgrades are almost always sold for a loss. I believe you could get 1400 for the weapon easily. Then unload the other parts either here or on gunbroker. Another option is to go to chumpbroker and look for someone with more money than sense. Sell the weapon as a 922® compliant weapon. You would probably be able to bleed 1750 - 1900 out of someone for it. It will probably take about a month or two to find that special someone.

Sweet. Is the recoil reduction from that comp pretty noticeable?