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Insert the Safety Plunger into the Trigger Guard. Insert the Safety Plunger Spring on top of the Safety Plunger and push it down until both parts bottom out against the Safety Button. You can feel that without spring tension on the Safety Plunger, the Safety Button will move unimpeded.

Reassembly Process Insert your Safety Button into the Trigger Guard. Insert it from the left side of the Trigger Guard if you are left handed. Apply some grease to the Safety Plunger before reassembling.

Here is the entire Trigger Assembly disassembled.

Look at all that rough aluminum casting. It makes you think you have a Colt!

Here is how the Safety works inside the Trigger Guard. The plunger presses against the Safety Button. The tension is set by the spring. If you would like a lighter safety, clip a coil or two from the spring. You do not want a safety that is too light to press. I found the factory tension to be a little too much for me. I cut about two coils off so that I could manipulate my DMW oversized safety button (not shown in these photographs) with the second knuckle of my trigger finger. If you are left handed, you can reverse the operation of the safety by simply inserting the Safety Button from the left side of the Trigger Guard. If you’ve made it this far, you now have a completely stripped Trigger Guard.

As you tap the punch thru, it will act as an alignment tool that retains the Safety Plunger and Safety Plunger Spring. Here all the parts of the Safety have been pulled out.

Here is a Diagram of the Trigger Assembly. Safety Disassembly We are now moving on to the manual safety in the Trigger Group. Use a 3/32" punch to tape the Safety Plunger Retaining Pin out from either side.

Here we are disassembling the Trigger Assembly. Use a 1/16" punch to tap out the Disconnector Pin. Here the Disconnector Pin has been removed. The Disconnector, the Disconnector Plunger and the Disconnector Spring now can be pulled out of the Trigger.

Here we are removing the Rear Trigger Pin. There isn’t really much purpose to removing this pin unless you’re doing a complete tear down for some reason. This pin does not need to be removed in order to pull out the Trigger Assembly. You will notice that the Trigger Pin taps out quite easily.

Here the Front Trigger Pin has been removed and the Trigger Assembly has been pulled out of the Trigger Guard. The Shell Release Lever is free and can be removed now. Here is the Trigger Assembly removed from the Trigger Guard.

Trigger Disassembly Here we are going to remove the front Trigger Pin. This pin also retains the Shell Release Lever Spring. Tap out the pin with an appropriate size punch and hammer from either side. As you tap the punch thru the assembly, the punch will act as a slave pin and hold the Trigger to the Trigger Guard Assembly.

Here is the Hammer, Hammer Spring and Hammer Spring Cap pulled free from the Trigger Guard Assembly. Note the hole in the Hammer. This is what the Trigger Pin Bushing inserts thru. Here the Shell Release Lever has been pulled off of the Trigger Guard. Try not to bend the Shell Release Lever Spring when you separate the parts.

Here you can see how the Breech Latch Pin comes apart. Here you can see the Carrier Plunger and the Carrier Spring. The spring simply slides over the plunger.

Here, the Trigger Pin Bushing has been removed. The Trigger Pin Bushing acts as an alignment pin that holds the Carrier, Shell Release Lever and Hammer to the Trigger Guard. So once the Trigger Pin Bushing is pulled out, everything will start to fall apart if you like it or not. Once the Carrier pulls away from the Trigger Guard, the Carrier Plunger/Carrier Spring will simply fall out of the Breech Latch. The Shell Release Lever will still be retained to the Trigger Guard by the Shell Release Spring that can be seen along the top of the Shell Release. Pull the Hammer, Hammer Spring Cap and Hammer Spring out of the Trigger Guard and set them aside. Here is a close up of the Carrier, the Breech Latch and the Breech Latch Pin. To disassemble this part, simply tip the Carrier over and the Breech Latch Pin will fall out. The Breech Latch will then simply pull away from the Carrier.

Now with the snap ring removed, you may push the Trigger Pin Bushing out from left to right. Be sure the hammer is decocked before doing this. Since we’re doing a full disassembly, push the Trigger Pin Bushing completely out with a punch or an alignment pin. As you push the Trigger Pin Bushing out, the Shell Release Button will likely unhook from the top of the Hammer Spring Cap as shown in my photograph above. As you pull the Trigger Pin Bushing out, be careful not to dislodge the Shell Release Lever yet. There is a small spring attached to it that is easy to damage.

Disassembly of the Trigger Assembly The first step to disassembly of the trigger pack is to remove the Trigger Pin Spring (also known as a snap ring) from the left side of the trigger assembly. To do this, you need a pair of snap ring pliers with an appropriate size pin size. I believe it is best to use the .050” diameter pins. Apply pressure with the snap ring pliers so that the snap ring expands and allows you to remove it from the Trigger Pin Bushing. Note the grooves along the side of the Trigger Pin Bushing. These grooves are what the snap ring seats into. You must align these grooves up when reassembling or you risk damaging the Trigger Pin Bushing by allowing the snap ring to squeeze the bushing incorrectly.

Forward Recently, I’ve had a few requests to do a disassembly/reassembly guide for the trigger pack of the Benelli M4. Today I had some spare time to kill, so I decided to try to tackle it. This manual can be used as a guide for pretty much any Benelli shotgun out there. Not everyone needs to do a full disassembly. They may be doing 922® upgrades or simply changing out their safety button. Perhaps you want to have your carrier welded up? You can jump around through the photographs and see what is needed to get the assembly apart to do your job. In this tutorial, many of the images will have lines on them indicating what you cannot see inside of the parts. I used the color blue to indicate the position of the tools such as punches. I used green to indicate the position of the roll pin or other type of assembly pins. White and black indicate the general assembly. Note: The trigger pack I am using is a spare complete trigger pack with a Geisselle hammer installed. The Tools Before proceeding into this tutorial, I would advise that you have some proper gunsmith grade tools. You do not need hundreds of dollars’ worth of tools, but you do need the basics to prevent marring your work. Proper tools will also keep the swearing to a minimum. This job we’re about to perform will cause some swearing. You will be required to manipulate many small spring loaded pieces that must be aligned perfectly. It might be pretty miserable to perform if you have big sausage fingers. Take this under advisement before you’re forced to make the walk of shame to the local gunsmith with a shoe box full of parts. Naturally, if you get stuck somewhere, get a hold of me and I’ll help you in any way that I can. If you’re still stuck or have broken something, you can send the assembly to me to repair. All I will charge is the cost of shipping it back and the cost of any needed parts. The same applies if you want something repaired or if you want 922® compliance parts installed and do not feel you can complete the task. I’ve done many installs for locals and other members on this forum in the past. If I have the parts on hand or you are sending them with the item, I usually have the work back in the mail to you the next morning. 1/16 Punch 3/32 Punch Snap Ring Pliers Dental Pick Alignment Tools Assembly Block Brass Hammer Rawhide Mallet

Kip might be willing to share what color he is using. I know he is making his own blend for the black units. Maybe he'd be willing to paint one for you?

Sure. Cerakote will adhere to Titanium quite well. I used it on my Burnt Bronze build. Figuring out exactly what color to use to match Benelli's version of tan may be difficult. Carriercomp would be the one to get ahold of since they make their desert tan tubes to match the OEM scheme.

Just wanted to say thanks to Sukhoi_fan for the stock. You guys missed out on a great stock at a great price!

Good info. Thanks. It certainly is a trade off between strength and tactile feel. The relief cuts I made on the shell stop seemed to work quite well. We will see if it holds up over time.

I've had excellent luck with FFT titanium tubes. I would go with the weight reduction.

I sighted mine in with slugs at 50 yards. Buckshot and birdshot loads leading up to that distance seem to match well.

I recall seeing that now. I'm not a fan of it. It's hard to catch the ejecting shell into your hand. I tried it out on mine, I can do it fairly easily. I don't really like it though since the shell racks the top of my index finger. I like to point the M4 in an upward angle and hold the M4 with my strong hand on the pistol grip. Then use my support hand thumb to press against the shell stop. This pushes the elevator up and out of the way. I can squeeze against the outside of the receiver with my fingers if additional leverage is required. As the shells eject, they land in the palm of my hand.