StrangerDanger

Glad the trigger pack made it back to you. Hope you like where I set the tension on the safety. If I was keeping M80 rail, I would have the aluminum part painted in Cerakote to match the receiver. Maybe send the aluminum portion of the collapsible stock to be painted the same. Then leave all the furniture black. You have a full length mag tube on order? Or is it a no-go feature in the Masshole?

I think I've localized the hang up to the breech bolt latch and the notch on the bottom of the bolt carrier. The breech bolt latch was one of the parts WMD did not coat, so it is still stock. I think I have a spare breech bolt latch in my box, so I'm going to see if it exhibits the same stoppage. When I manually pull the bolt to the rear, allow the bolt to move forward about half an inch, then retract the bolt to the rear again, the latch will bind up. I have to either push the bolt very hard to get it to go forward, or retract it all the way to the rear again. The pistons have free play in them, but they are still tighter than stock. I may sand them some more. The weapon didn't seem to have any issues with the pistons when firing. There was no sign of short stroking. Nickel Boron can be coated up to .004" thick. That doesn't mean everything is coated to that thickness though.

Took the five weapons out today/tonight. Noveske Build Boringly reliable. Eats even Wolff without an issue. Glock 36 Not a single problem. MRP Botched the install of the Ejector and made the rifle unusable. Fixed the issue, but it missed out on testing. 9mm AR15 Build Huge problems at the beginning. Short stroking no matter the ammo type. Took my ball and went home. Stole the JP Enterprises silent buffer out of the MRP and dropped it in the 9mm build. Knocked out the weight in the bolt carrier. Stacked about $2.25 worth of quarters in the receiver extension to act as a spacer. With this arrangement, I need to install the upper receiver with both pins removed since I have to press the buffer into the receiver. Took the pistol out tonight again and ran through 300 rounds of various reloads. I had a couple jams randomly, but it was running pretty well. I still need to tweak some things to get it 100% reliable. Benelli M4 Started out having some issues where the bolt carrier would stick at the rear of the stroke. I'd have to hit the handle with the palm of my hand to get it to go forward and continue loading the round. I went through about 300 rounds of high brass #4 bird shot, a few boxes of slugs and buckshot. I even ran about 50 #8 value pack crap through it. Cycling was pretty reliable by the end of the firing strings. By the end, I could barely touch the handguards it was so hot. My shoulder is feeling the love now.

Looks like a method of preventing the button from marking up the receiver.

The factory handguards are the most ergonomic, comfortable and lightweight option out there.

Good video. Looks and sounds very familiar! I'd say with certainty that you're beating the cyclic rate of the action and pulling the trigger while the bolt carrier is still moving. I wish there was a way to keep the disconnector engaged longer. The only thing that can be done with this platform is trying to speed up the action. What you could try is removing the bolt handle all together and do one of these runs. See if you can still beat the action.

Since you have two Benelli M4's, have you had this issue with both units?

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Lubricant choices are important. Avoid the thicker greases that might restrict movement. Brian Enos' Light Slide Glide might be a good option for the bolt carrier rails. I actually have that trigger set too. Lately I've been using the Geisselle hammer instead of the FFT one though. I like how the Geisselle fits tighter around the barrel of the hammer bushing. Probably a personal bias since I really like Geisselle products. I've been thinking about running the FFT one again to take advantage of the finish on it. I forget what finish the hammer has on it, but I believe it is a nickel based finish. It isn't NP3, because that is what the trigger has on it. You won't see any advantage from the disconnector, but the hammer should increase the cyclic rate some from the coated finish on the hammer making contact with the bottom of the bolt carrier. The trigger may be counter-productive for our issue. The lighter pull will make it easier to fire the weapon even faster. I'm not certain if they reset is different than the OEM trigger. The 'break' is certainly more crisp.

3 Position Receiver Extension internally coated in Nickel Boron, then externally painted in Cerakote. carriercomp follower coated in Nickel Boron.

That's about my firing rate as well when I start hitting this problem. It really sucks since I have the follow up shot on target through the Aimpoint. I consciously hear myself thinking to slow down before breaking the shot. You can try different ammunition to see if it slows you down some. Some of my other plans were to nickel boron coat a significant amount of the rest of the weapon to try to increase the cyclic rate. I even coated the magazine follower, pistons, shell elevator, shell stop and a few of the trigger group components in hopes of shaving off a few milliseconds.

Love that 14". Love the Oregon terrain too.

When you say you're shooting fast, how fast would you say? Like firing 5 rounds in like half a second? You're holding the shotgun firmly I assume? A weak shoulder will slow the actions cyclic rate.

Sounds like you're beating the trigger disconnect. To visualize what is happening, empty the weapon of ammunition. Rack the bolt to the rear and slowly allow the bolt carrier to move forward. As soon as the shell elevator drops, pull the trigger. Even though there is still an inch or more of movement in the action, the hammer will fall. You end up with a live round in the chamber with the hammer down. I've encountered this problem many times myself. There is no surefire solution to the problem. What you can do is to reduce the weight of the bolt carrier by using a lighter than stock bolt handle. Shoot higher dram loads to cycle the weapon faster and inherently slow you down some. I'm currently testing another option to speed up the action. I had the receiver rails, receiver extension, receiver extension plunger and the bolt carrier all treated with Nickel Boron to reduce friction and perhaps increase the action's speed. Hopefully I'll get to test it out on Monday.

I'll try to write something up soon. I know I raided Walmart and bought a bunch of Black and Decker bits that fit. I'm still waiting for the third base block to show up so I can spread out a little more. I did make rows on one block for all the flat head drivers. I would like to stamp the block so I can look down and grab the correct bit. I think I just need some stamp punches. I might get creative and color fill the stampings afterwards. Here are some pictures of the other rifles I put together.

Just spent 8 hours assembling my full sized Noveske .223 and my LMT MRP Piston operated .223. Got to use my Geisselle reaction rod extensively along with the new Seekonk torque wrenches. The reaction rod was a lot more useful than I expected. Not just for torquing barrels and flash hiders. Holding the upper in place, it allowed me to index the upper so I could work on the sides or bottom. You just slide the upper off the star chamber adapter and index it to where you want, and slide it back on. The Seekonk dial torque wrenches are awesome. The larger foot pound unit I have has a memory needle, so you know exactly what the max torque you reached. I'm going to throw my old clicker torque wrench down the street. The Magnabit set from Brownells sped things along. Particularly the ratcheting driver. The only issue with the sets is the fact that it is misleading about the sets. Even the large super duper set is missing bit sets. I've created what I labeled, The Imperial Wizard Set™ by adding various bit sets together. It now spans three of those 144 bit blocks. I didn't expect any fitting issues. I guess it is to be expected on tight tolerance parts. Since I was using 1200 grit sand paper, I only polished the pistons on the ridges. Five minutes by hand, I just spun the pistons in a sheet of the paper. It did not remove the nickel boron. On the bolt carriers of the AR15's, you can certainly tell they tightened up. Manually cycling them wears the parts together. It just takes a while. I'm hoping to take them out shooting on Monday to see how they perform.