Wrinkles

I can't imagine mine were censored. There was absolutely nothing offensive in the text. When I did post a link it was to DMW site. Any photos were hosted on photo bucket. I tried to post photos in the "new FFT stuff" thread showing similar hammer wear as etale experienced. I had questions about the DMW enhanced bolt release. I also had some jams similar to some that I found I an old post. I figured some of what was going wrong out but still needed help with the root of the cause. Like I said, I don't think any of it was offensive.

+1 I'm new here but probably won't last long if these kind of errors continue. It's frustrating to peck out a long post only to have it disappear into cyberspace.

Thats strange because I did not use the photo link, just copied and pasted the direct link from photo bucket. It doesn't seem to want to work for me.

I see some folks posting photos so I'm still confused as to why mine didn't go through. The photos are hosted on photobucket. Is that the issue? Pretty frustrating when you have something to add or questions that need explaining...

Hmmm, i did try to post photos. I thought maybe it was too big so I tried to repost a thumbnail but that didn't work either. Maybe that is it...can't post photos until your in the cool guy club.?.

Ha! That one went through automatically. Go figure.

This is only a test. My threads needed approval from a mod and now it looks like my posts do as well. What gives? If this shows up, can somebody, anybody, help explain the rules to me? I'm not seeing anything in the FAQs about this. Thanks.

Okay, I'll try this again. My FNG status is in full effect, I guess. etale, those are excellent observations. I have run 250 rounds thru my FFT hammer, trigger, and disconector. I have the same dents on the hammer face as you are experiencing. There is a tiny amount of surface wear, but I'm not too concerned about it. Time will tell, I guess.

etale, Great observations. I have 250 rounds through my FFT trigger, disconector, and hammer. I have the same dings on the face a a tiny amount of surface wear. Wondering if the dings will stabilize like this or get worse. Only time will tell, I guess...

I am no grease monkey, so take if for what it's worth, I use white lithium grease for most occasions. On the parts that rotate use oil. I use RemOil. Again, YMMV. SD recommended machine gunners lube.

Two years and seven posts. Maybe it's a contribution thing?

A moderator needs to approve it. I 'm not sure how long you have to be here before the probation ends. I looked in the rules/FAQs but didn't see an answer. Maybe someday i will learn the secret handshake. I have two threads awaiting approval. One is w week old...

Took me probably 20 minutes and most of that was trying to get my snap ring pliers to grab the hammer pin snap ring. I had to grind them down for another project so they don't work like they should. Some things that helped me, when you push the trigger pin go left to right. Don't push it all the way out. If you push it just far enough to remove the trigger, the you won't have to contend with the shell release lever spring upon assembly. Also holding the trigger upside-down, placing the trigger spring into the hole in the bottom if the trigger, and then sliding the trigger into the FCG fram while it is held upside down will help with not loosing the trigger spring and make it easier to seat the trigger into place. I know that sounds complicated, but it's not. It will all make sense one you start. The parts come with good instructings and other here have posted some good advice that will assist you.

Fellas, Please bear with me for a minute. I have an M4 that I took out a few weeks ago and ran 10 rounds of high brass and 100 rounds of Federal Valuepack through it without a hitch. Finding no problems, and wanting to get the full potential out of it, I ordered a FFT full length ti tube, follower, mag/tube spring, hammer, disconecter, trigger, and 1/2" ti charging handle. I got all that installed without a hitch. Today I went out and tested it. It ran another 100 rounds of Fed Valuepack perfectly. Then, during the last 50 rounds, it started to have some issues. It hung up about four times. The issue was that it would fire one or two rounds and then hangup. The bolt carrier would be all the way to the rear, the spent shell was ejected, and a fresh shell would be sitting on the lifter. I could get it to close by simply hitting the charging handle forward. I searched the forum and came up with this thread which describes similar issues... http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/18913-Benelli-M4-Feeding-Problems?highlight=M4+jam So, I went out to take a look at the FCB to see if maybe I should polish the suggested parts. That's when I noticed some strange peening/dents on the frame of the FCG. It looks like the rear of the spring pin that actuates the lifter lever (don't have the official name in front of me) is hitting the frame. See... If things work as they should, the frame never gets hit by the pin. However. If downward pressure is applied to the lifeter while the bolt moves rearward tripping the lifter lever/arm, the pin's angle changes and it hits the frame. Anyone deal with this before? I'm guessing the problem is due to installing the new full length tube. I pulled it all apart again and I can feel a little difference between the inside diameter of the factory tube and the ID of the FFT tube. My caliper confirms this. However, my batteries are dead so I can't tell you the actual difference. With both tubes, the receiver produces a slight lip where tube flushes up to the receiver. However, I'm thinking that this slight amount of difference might be to blame for my the issues. I can get a shell to hangup on the lip when the FFT tube is installed. My guess is that the rim of the shells would eventually wear the lip caused by the receiver down. Or, I could hit it with some fine abrasive and speed up the process. I'm not even sure if this is "lip" is the culprit. I'm thinking if something is slowing up the feeding of the new shells it might be creating pressure on the lifter. Thus, causing the lifter spring pin to hit the FCG frame which is resulting in the bolt hanging up in the open position. Any ideas? Maybe I'm completely off? Anyone dealt with this before? Thanks.

I always like the 'box of truth'.

I think you will be fine with the #6 shot. A lot of folks seem to recommend a couple hundred rounds of high brass to break in the gun. Others will say that isn't necessary. All I know for sure is what worked for me. I tore my NIB gun down. I wiped it down. I put a couple of drops of oil on the bolt head/bolt carrier interface. I put a light coat of white grease on the bolt carrier rails, hammer face, and sear surfaces. I then put it all back together. I then put on a glove for padding and racked the bolt home a few hundred time. The wife and dog really enjoyed this;-). I could tell a difference in the hand cycling as the bolt would not rotate onto battery if i closed it slowly. After the hand cycling, the bolt lugs had wore in to the point where, no mater how gently you closed the bolt, the lugs would seat and close completely. I then took it out and ran five rounds of Federal slugs to see how close the POA was to POI. Then I ran five rounds of Federal 00 buck through it to get an idea of the pattern at a few different ranges. Finally I ran 100 rounds of Federal Valuepack (Walmart) through it. The Only FTFeed was self induced as I tested to see if I could shoot the low brass from the hip. I couldn't be happier! YMMV.

That's great! I like the one with the little green guy. Makes the bloody handprints flow with the theme a little better.

Honestly, I have only shot 100 rounds through the gun so I don't have a great feel for the trigger. I will say that I like the feel of it with the new parts installed. My main reason for adding the parts was not for a Berger feeling trigger but for .992r compliance. I also installed a FFT Ti full length tube. That was easy due to following the directions you posted on that topic in the past. Thanks for contributing all your knowledge!

Just installed the new hammer, disconector, and trigger. It was much easier than I expected. For me, the hardest part was removing the snap ring from the hammer pin. Can't wait to test it out on Saturday! Woohoo!

StrangerDanger, I could hug you! Thanks for your insight. My parts should be here tomorrow. I can't wait!

Why is the number on the barrel different than the serial number? Does the barrel number/code have some special meaning?

Are there any videos or photo threads explaining how to swap the complete package into the FCG?

I did a quick search but didn't come up with much. I copied this photo from somewhere on this site but can't find it anymore. I am looking for an oversized bolt release. The GG&G are popular but cost an arm and a leg. They also look a litte too big to me. I am wondering if the photo below is a custom job or something that is for sale? The only issue I see with this style is potentially catching it on something and bending it out. What am I missing here fellas?

Maybe it has an internal mag/tube plug?

Thanks SD. Your posts, along with other knowledgeable members here, helped me understand what the best options are for the M4. I don't want to cut corners on this gun. I realize the LOP wouldn't be increased or decreased. I was just thinking I might be neat to have options for the LOP to change every 1/2 inch or so. My thoughts were more for different clothing. Maybe something like; full length for a tee shirt, next notch for a light coat, next notch for a heavy coat, next notch for armor, etc. I have a very competent smith in town that I'm sure could handle the work. I'm probably over thinking it. The world seems to have gotten along just fine with three positions.