RxArms
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Posts posted by RxArms
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I don’t recommend a cerakote on the inside, you can tape off the openings and just paint the outside of the receiver. This will ensure smooth operation on the inside.
I don’t have any experience with NT7+. But from what I understand it has high lubricity properties which is what you would want if coating the inside also. .0002 thickness is practically nothing. Benelli designed the M4 to operate with dust and garbage in the receiver. I can attest to this as my M4 is completely filthy inside and it still runs like a champ. So I doubt .0002 will have any effect at all on the operation of the gun.
In general, if you are doing just a black paint job, get the painter to tape off the inside of the reciever and they can just paint the outside, a good shop will be familiar with this practice.
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I should clarify, lubricating the OUTSIDE of the magazine tube may help.
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I think my Turkish pump is a nova clone, it had a similar issue with very resistive pumping. Lubricate the magazine tube, that was the issue with my gun, it ended up making the cycling 10x easier. I hope this helps!
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You don’t need a new spring. The same OEM spring used in the 5 round tube is the same one used in the 7 round tube.
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Wow that is a major machining error on benellis side. I honestly am shocked this happened.
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Ya some discolouration on the annodizing looks like.
cerekote is your best option. If you do get it painted make sure to request a low gloss/matte sheen of your colour choice. In my view you have the option of just painting the receiver black, or painting the whole gun.
If you want to keep costs down I would start with just the receiver and see how you like it. The Benelli m4 Is made up of several shades of black and dark greys, so a black painted receiver might just fit in nicely I think.
This pic I attached. The bolt release tab and the charge handle are cerakote low gloss/matte graphite black. You can see the comparison to the receiver colour. I hope this is helpful!
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2 hours ago, Zombieland said:
Thanks RX Arms. Good advice. If I were to do it again, I would put a 1" hole in a piece of welders cloth shield and slide in all the way back to the receiver, and then just torch the tube. This would have protected the Cerakote finish. Once the tube it hot enough, it will come right off with very little turning pressure.
It came right off like butter but I slightly discolored the receiver Cerakote finish.
You don’t really need to even go terribly close to the reciever, the steel will conduct heat very well to where the threads are.
glad you got it off though! Yes it’s a bit of a project to swap the full tube
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I use the MS1, like it a lot.
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300F is not enough, need 500F to melt the threadlocker.
personally, I only put the heat on the steal mag tube.
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8 hours ago, nyc71 said:
My M3 is a newer model I found out the hard way not all M4 charging handle have the right fit. The FFT M4 charging handle scratched the crap out of my M3. I also tried the RXArm which is also a no go on the M3.
Is the handle too close to the reciever? Or what aspect doesn’t fit on the M3?
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6 hours ago, NCswamp13 said:
Well I just broke my GG&G charging handle on my M3. Any suggestions on a replacement? I have the oem on there now but im so used to the oversized one that the oem seems too small.
That’s too bad, not sure how popular the m3 is, but maybe I could look into that platform.
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Hey all,
We have an updated design utilizing the some engineering from the Titanium charge handle we offer. Coming in at a much lower price point due to the 7075-T6 for the handle instead of Titanium, and the same hardened stainless steel pin. Also using the same "anti spin" design, to keep the charge handle in place.
Offering both a 0.55" handle coming in at 9 grams, and a 0.75" handle, coming in at 12g. OEM handle is around 12g.
You can check it out at www.rxarms.com. Thanks!
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On 6/16/2020 at 8:24 PM, StrangerDanger said:
That’s pretty rough on that bolt link. It won’t likely effect function though. the hammer and pistons seem normal to me. The bolt link is probably the most half assed made part on the Benelli. It’s sandwiched together steel shins riveted together.
If someone made a one piece unit, I’d buy that.
I’m sure Benelli will replace or repair those parts for you if you’re willing to wait on their slow tech support services.
I’m curious if others would be interested in a one pc machined bolt link? I had not considered this part in the past, but it’s possible titanium could be used for such a part to lose some weight.
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On 8/23/2023 at 6:45 AM, Dogman said:
So to use this heat shield I could not retain the oem optic rail?
I’ll be selling a true mil spec picatinny rail to replace it and provide compatibility with the heatshield.
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16 minutes ago, nyc71 said:
I messed up I developed tunnel vision by only ordering two instead of four. I forgot I could use them on the M2 & M3.
I don’t have an m2 and m3 to test them on, but I do know these also work on the beretta 1301.
test them on your guns and let me know how they go. I’ll just give free shipping to you if you want to order a couple more, just email me.
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Quick google search yielded this:
https://www.hunttalk.com/threads/montefeltro-recoil-pad-question.312805/
looks similar to your stock. Recoil pad seems to use spring tensioned clips to retain itself.
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What is the model gun it came on? That will give you the best answer
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If you’re wondering why I’m saying Turkish, it’s because their gun is made in turkey. Just because they have a USA address doesn’t mean it’s made in USA.
any company making guns/parts in USA it would be plastered all over the website.
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I can’t find anywhere on any of those sites their origin of manufacturing, if they were made in USA it would be clearly stated. The Typhoon F12 is made in turkey.
One has to assume all of those companies and their items are Turkish.
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58 minutes ago, Fullassault said:
Do these work ok with the Ti CC tubes? I don’t know much about titanium, didn’t know if there would be any binding issues
Ya as mentioned above it should install no issue, a thread is a thread. As long as the tube is machined correctly with proper thread tolerances the cap will work.
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I toyed with the idea of making a different design altogether, more straight out without the 3 large circles machined into it. But in the end, I find benellis cap design quite beautiful so decided to keep the classic look of the cap even though I probably could have achieved 1/4” to 1/2” more spring space.
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I would run the gun with OEM mag spring and 7 round tube, and put the rest back to stock and see how it runs. Imo, the OEM mag spring is just fine for 5 round tube and 7 round, Benelli uses the same spring in both mag tube lengths.
If it fires fine in this configuration then you know it is something else.
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Is that larger charge handle made of out metal or polymer like the 1301?
FFT charging handle pops out, RX arms?
in Benelli
Posted · Edited by RxArms
We have a different design, with a detent hole that has positive engagement with the detent to prevent rotation once the detent has popped into place.
I should mention that lately the past couple years some detents on Benelli M4s suffer from less than adequate spring pressure, and our handle can be rotated out with enough force. I have an older 2013 m4 where the detent has great pressure and I couldn’t rotate the handle with all my strength, my newer 2020 M4 has a detent that does not have the same detent pressure. At the same time I have a lot of customers with new M4s that the handle locks on great.
I am sure some users here will chime in.