JabregoUSMC

Hey guys, I'm sure some of you have already seen some of my posts in the other topic of the disconnector problem but figured I would ask this here since it pertains to the A&S trigger housing vs starting a new thread. So I just put in the FFT trigger group into the A&S housing and all seems to be functioning correctly when doing numerous functions checks by manually resetting the hammer before putting it back into (safety first!). After installing the assembled FCG back into the gun and function testing, looking into the ejection port, the hammer seems to be almost "bouncing" back after hitting the firing pin. The hammer definitely feels like it has much more freedom of movement (rotating on the bushing) than when it was in the OEM polymer housing. I'm sure everything is fine but just want to get some input and make sure that this is normal before going out and firing. Thanks! P.S. - I don't think my wife likes you guys, just ordered my 3 position recoil tube ?

Update: I was starting to wonder why I hadn't received an email with an order update/shipped from A&S, a few minutes later my wife sent me a picture of a package that arrived. So, just finished installing and function testing FFT trigger kit with A&S trigger housing and everything is working properly now! Thanks everyone for your input/advice.

Will definitely look into the carrier comp titanium one and either sell or keep the Benelli full-length as a backup.

This is good to hear, hopefully all will function fine once I get the A&S trigger housing! Definitely considered it and maybe will in the future. I really wanted to try to stick with as many OEM parts as possible, but lighter weight would be nice. My only other hang up right now with FFT is their perceived "attitude" towards their customers. Really, their website, videos, responses to their customers' concerns. Just don't feel like that's a good way to attract and keep customers. Just my opinion, which can change.

I know, but I feel like if there's no added benefit (other than just being a "compliant part") and I already have enough parts, I don't feel like it's a necessity yet. I'm going to wait and see how the new trigger housing works out with the trigger parts first.

Appreciate the input. I don’t think I’m going to make any changes to the parts until I get the new trigger housing. I’m thinking that the hole for the disconnector spring/plunger might be slightly less deep than the oem, causing the the disconnector to be pushed just a hair forward. As for compliant parts, personally, I would prefer to keep the gun as stock as possible. I opted to go with the Benelli factory extended mag tube which means I would still need to replace 3 parts. The trigger kit would have done that for me in one go with the added benefit of a more crisp trigger pull/hammer reset. And FFT only sells the entire kit. With everything I’ve read about the FFT forearms not having a good fit, that’s not a part I want to go with. The only forearm that I would consider would be the Strike Industries Hayl rail but not a huge fan of the look although it does add some versatility. I was planning on replacing the recoil tube with a 3 position tube (I have the 1014 with single position skeleton stock), which would mean I need to replace an additional “compliance part” (gotta love these wonderful gun laws). So if this trigger kit works fine in the trigger housing I ordered, we’ll be good to go.

I also noticed that the trigger spring comes out at a different angle between the factory trigger and the FFT trigger. I don't think that's what could be causing the hammer hanging up though.

It is odd. In my first post the other day, I attached a couple pictures, one was factory disconnector in FFT trigger and the other was FFT disconnector and trigger. In the latter, the disconnector seems to be pushed further forward when spring/plunger installed (you can kind of see more of an angle where the bottom edge of the disconnector sits above the trigger (looking from the side).

The kit came with the trigger spring (that goes into the hole on the bottom towards the front of the trigger), the spring that goes onto the plunger for the disconnector, the hammer spring that goes into the hammer plunger and then the shell release (?) spring on the left side of the housing. I think it says on their website, "FFT 922r compliant trigger pack and springs" I just got home and took everything apart again. Tried a few things. I did check to make sure there were no obstructions in the spring holes as you suggested. All testing below is when holding trigger to the rear after trigger pull and manually resetting hammer. 1. OEM disconnector, all other FFT parts - nice audible click when releasing trigger after hammer reset. 2. swapped out disconnector spring (that goes on plunger into top of trigger), still using all FFT components - no audible click, hammer gets hung up and sometimes takes a couple "trigger pulls" to get hammer to fall again. 3. swapped FFT disconnector and supplied springs to OEM trigger - nice audible click when releasing trigger, hammer falls with each trigger pull. Hammer release not as crisp as FFT trigger. Thank you again for your suggestions. As of right now, I think I'm going to use the OEM disconnector with all other FFT parts until I receive the A&S trigger housing, then try this all again. Fingers crossed.

Yeah, I'm probably going to tear it down again and check the spring holes (I'm pretty sure everything was good). I'm using the springs that came with the FFT trigger kit. Going to try switching the disconnector spring back to the OEM spring and see what happens. Not sure if the FFT trigger kit was supposed to come with another disconnector pin but mine didn't so I don't know if that would make a difference.

We'll see what happens after I transfer over all the guts to the A&S. The biggest thing I noticed when changing out the OEM parts for the FFT kit multiple times to test what was going on and narrow it down was it was a real PITA to install the disconnector pin through the FFT disconnector (the process w/ that part is already hard but I mean physically getting the pin through the disconnector hole). Went in pretty easy on the OEM disconnector (didn't really even need a punch to get it all the way through). I also stacked the 2 disconnectors and the holes didn't seem to line up perfectly (just by visual inspection, tried to get them perfectly stacked to take a look through). Other than that, everything else was pretty straight forward swapping out the parts. Come to think of it, Todd did mention spring tension, so I may try to swap disconnector spring to the OEM one when I get home just to rule that out for now to see if that helps. But maybe since the holes are either not aligned the same, the OEM spring might help bring the FFT disconnector back some, giving the hammer a hair more clearance.

Update: A&S trigger guard ordered ? Thanks for helping me “pull the trigger” on that ??

That does make sense seeing as my trigger assembly is the polymer one. The A&S trigger guard was on my shopping list but was going to do a couple other things first. I may have to move that up now. Thanks for the reply SD!

Hey everyone. I’ve been reading a lot on this forum for awhile now (lots of old but useful info here so thanks!) and this is my first post. So here I am, reviving an old post but I’m having almost the exact same issue with the disconnector. I sent an email to FFT (below). “Hello. I recently ordered the trigger kit for my Benelli M4. After installing and performing numerous function checks, I noticed that there was no audible click when slowly releasing the trigger after dry firing and holding the trigger to the rear. After visually inspecting what was going on, it seemed that the hammer would go past the disconnector and get hung up (beyond the disconnector “lip”). If I didn’t push the hammer too far (just enough to clear the disconnector), the hammer would catch the disconnector but after releasing the trigger it would still be slightly caught on the disconnector. I then replaced the disconnector with the factory one and had no issues. I took a few photos/videos comparing how each disconnector sits in the FFT trigger and it seems that the FFT disconnector sits too far forward causing the hammer to get hung up. Can I exchange the disconnector for another one? Thank you” And this is their reply: “There won't be any difference between one disconnector and another - they're all cut on highly precise EDM machines and for all intents and purposes all disconnectors are mirror images of each other. Additionally, I don't have another disconnector to give you - we're out completely - even if I thought that would make a difference. But just because your disconnector seems to be sitting too forward doesn't mean it isn't an issue with the trigger, the plunger, one of the springs, or the trigger housing. If the trigger is sitting a hair forward it could cause that issue. I get that with the OEM seems to be working but then the OEM could be milled slightly out of spec to compensate. We've found over near 10 years of doing Benelli trigger kits that the OEM components over the years vary and we see a lot of components out of spec. Really the only thing I could do is take the trigger kit back for a refund. We don't sell any of the three components individually, so if you'd like to return the kit it would need to be the kit in its entirety. Please let me know if that's what you'd like to do and we can arrange a return. You can call call me at the number on the website to discuss if you'd like.” So now what do I do? I’m trying to keep the gun compliant and would like to have a couple extra “compliant parts” installed AND still use all 3 parts that I paid for. FullSizeRender.mov IMG_1647.MOV