RedNeck Geek

At nearly 65, I'm about to cross this bridge myself. My old eyeballs just don't work well anymore with irons, though I do still want to cowitness them with whatever combo I end up with. Primary roll for this shotgun is home defense, so I'm not too worried about sun angles, but I do care about low light situations. The gun is also fitted with a Mesa Tactical SureShell 8-round sidesaddle carrier, so I want a mount that is compatible with the Picatinny rail. I see that Trijicon sells a Picatinny version of the RMR, but I can't find anything on its ability to cowitness the irons. The RMR itself comes in several versions, and I'm curious about the LED vs. tritium/fiber options. I really like the idea of not having to depend on a battery, but I've been very unimpressed with MeproLight 34302 tritium night iron sights. They're almost invisible, even in a totally dark room. Is the tritium/fiber version of the RMR bright enough for daylight use, as well as near pitch black? Does it automatically adjust brightness when I hit the button on the Scout flashlight mounted next to the barrel? Then there are the color options on the RMR: red, green, or amber. I can't find any local to look at for myself, and I wonder if any of you folks have seen the RMR Dual-Illuminated Reflex Sight? What about the shape of the dot: traditional round dot or triangular? For short range defensive shooting, not sure there's be much difference? Finally, there's the size of the dot. The smallest seems to be 7 MOA, and it ranges up to a 12.9. I think I read somewhere that the Marines ended up with 9 MOA. Any thoughts there? Seems like this choice is more complicated that it should be...

What StrangerDanger said. Just went down that road two weeks ago. 'Cept I used a coarse stone, taking a couple strokes at a time and checking to make sure that the flat was developing evenly across the hammer. It also bears mentioning that this was with an A&S trigger housing and FFT "perfectly machined" (Todd's words) trigger kit. The A&S part is very nice, but not really a guaranteed fix for the disconnector issue.

Thanks SD. I went ahead and ordered an A&S trigger housing, hoping it would fix the problem with the FFT disconnector. Unfortunately, it didn't. So I used a coarse stone to take abut 0.30 off the disconnector spur on the hammer, and got enough clearance between the two to eliminate the problem. I've since put a couple boxes of shells through it with no problems birdshot, 00 Buck, and slugs. When the disconnector is engaged with the hammer, the engagement is to the full depth of the disconnector notch, and the disconnector notch is just as deep as it was then it came from FFT. And there's still plenty of depth left on the hammer side of the notch. I've got more money tied up in aftermarket parts for this thing than any of my other shotguns are worth. But it's the only one that doesn't bruise my face and shoulder, and it comes back on target quicker, too. There's nothing else I'd rather have on my side in a fight, and it's hard to put a price on that. This shot shows the lack of clearance: This is after stoning the hammer spur.

Thanks for posting this thread. Ran into the same problem on a recently purchased M4 with a polymer trigger housing and the FFT trigger kit. Replaced the FFT disconnector with the Benelli part and it runs fine. Thought about leaving it that way, but have the A&S trigger housing on the way. Comparing the two disconnectors, the engagement surface on the Benelli part is is angled such that it is parallel with the engagement surface on the hammer. On the FFT part, the angle is such that the hook on the hammer will be drawn into engagement with the disconnector notch. That would require more force from the trigger spring to push the hammer hook up hill and out of the disconnector notch when the trigger is released. It's a bit hard to tell, but the Wolfe spring in the FFT kit does feel lighter than the Benelli spring. That's in addition to the problem of there not being enough clearance between the hammer hook and disconnector notch to let them pass each other when the trigger is released. To fix that problem, I'd be more inclined to remove material from the hammer. The hook cut is much deeper than the notch on the disconnector, and it seems like you'd have a much better chance of preserving the amount of contact surface between the two parts by cutting down the hammer hook. Or am I missing something?