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Dkay67

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Posts posted by Dkay67

  1.  

    There are many reasons I like my Agency Arms handguard. I can mount a light bar extension on the Mlok and move my Modlite further forward decreasing shadowing, I can also add a pressure pad, a extra shell on the rail, and also have a hand stop mounted underneath via the mlock. My latest addition is a nano tool and holder to adjust my aimpoint red-dot sight.

    Additionally I can add G10 scales, or use presently, bcm mlok rail covers for grip enhancement 

     

    20220209_192842.thumb.jpg.6628331e402eb79a92583fa5d883d349.jpg20220209_192850.thumb.jpg.8e3fce79c4760c5c94aeabb11efa171a.jpg

    • Upvote 1
  2. 5 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

    Quite a mark up. As much as you’d think the trigger group would benefit from being plated, the performance gain is negligible. 

    Considering the cost of the housing from A&S in its standard configuration is $209-$219, I think the upcharge to $350 isn't all that stiff - when you consider the fees to process the metal before coating with NP3.

    My extra charges from Wright for the stripping of the metal prior to np3 dip are in line with that upcharge for similar sized metal work

    Of course there are economy of scale advantages, or perhaps FFT got an order of raw aluminum housings in to avoid the extra processing charges idk ? 

    As for performance gain - have you done trigger pull measurements if there was any drop in pull force? I'll be running a nearly full np3 conversion in the trigger assembly when it arrives, and while it may be subjective and hard to quantify it may have a smoother pull and operating function.

    The other benefit would be to aesthetics to go with the Np3/H20 format - again a subjective beauty in the eye of the beholder measurement

  3. Screenshot_20220206-112238_Brave.thumb.jpg.945df30e1c901672f8a9bb17315ea6b6.jpgDecent price for end users for a NP3 housing at Freedomfightertactical.com 

    $350 + shipping 

    Since Coating Technologies/Wright has closed off np3 to consumers, this is about the only way to acquire this coating for this excellent trigger guard enhancement

    https://freedomfightertactical.com/products/m4-m1-a-s-enhanced-trigger-guard-in-np3-format-1x-922r?_pos=37&_sid=6c429404d&_ss=r

  4. 1 hour ago, rubicon20032003 said:

    If people seen what they pay for them .They would be shocked.Mybuddie is a Leo dealer .So I see the prices 

    You are more likely getting LEO prices because he's your buddy than any other factor.

    Stop playing "shop a LEO dealer" card because hardly any of those with an authorized Benelli agreement will risk having that yanked for violation 

    You're in a fortunate position, that's all.

    • Upvote 1
  5. 16 hours ago, rubicon20032003 said:

    He’s getting greedy thats all.When Benelli hasn’t raised there prices to Leo dealers 

    Greedy? I disagree.

    The cost of everything is rising due to inflation. If he has seen what other secondary markets will bear for these C-stocks then he has every incentive to maximize his profit.

    Not everyone can get law enforcement special pricing 

  6. 2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

    That pin is a bitch, but it is possible to remove. Some are worse than others depending on how overzealous Benelli got when staking around the ends of the pin. Plan on busting punches and definitely wear eye protection since punches are quite energetic when they fragment under hammering.

    Another issue is the pin is such a small diameter that you can't really deliver a lot of hammer force to the pin without risking bending the punch. I did buy a set of short punches to get the pin moving. I've still broken these little punches fighting with that pin. I've broken tons of Starrett punches on that bastard. I usually use a 12 ounce brass hammer.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H407C1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I've found the best way to drive it out is to clamp the rear sight housing into a padded vice on the sides of the housing. That way the pin is horizontal above the vice jaws and you can hammer on it going against the jaws. If you're hammering in a direction that will allow the housing to pivot in the jaws, you'll never get it out. Once the pin drifts a small amount, you can then switch to a longer punch to finish driving it out.

    Getting the pin back in is much easier than getting it out. It will still be retained tightly by the staking present on the housing, so the risk of it falling out is almost non-existent.

    Thanks @StrangerDanger.

    I think I'm going to go the route that Doge suggested above and just buy the loose pin and elevation block from MGW. Less work and physical hassle.

    (As well as cost of a vise, hammer, and several punches to destroy in the process)

    On the installation of the new block and pin, any suggestion on the staking so that the new NP3 isn't marred too badly on either side being staked, or is there any other suitable way to secure the pin such as a JB weld McGyver hack.

  7. Is there a special tool needed to remove and replace the pin highlighted in the attached pictures?

    20211230_190530.thumb.jpg.dd343e6bc6ef1c67c2d5effece179a05.jpg

    I am transferring the sight elevation and windage into a NP3 coated version and my block/pin/hammer isn't cutting it for pressing it out.

    @StrangerDanger

    20211230_190711.thumb.jpg.7f646b1cbf0e402f90cf0533f046ef43.jpg

    Any help from the gunsmiths in the forum to point on right direction or helpful tips?

    Thanks

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