Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'recoil tube'.
Found 2 results
With the upcoming release of the US made hammer, I decided it is time to change the recoil tube on my M1014. I have ordered the recoil tube and began disassembly in anticipation. I could not get the recoil tube locking nut to budge. I followed similar steps to remove the magazine and had no problems. Apply heat, twist off. There was very little thread locker on the magazine. I would really like to remove my recoil tube without damaging the receiver. Anybody have first hand experience removing the recoil tube on an early M1014? This would be the American flag version with a date of production stamp from 2002. Any help, advice, or tips will be appreciated. Thank you
*Note: These forums don't allow me to post more than 2 images, and the ones I posted seemed not to work, so I have to link the images as URL's. Apologies! The flickr set is available here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157626271744939/ I've read on several threads here about the importance of keeping the recoil tube clean on the m4, and I decided it would be a good idea to clean mine. After removing the stock and the circlip, I soon realized that I would not be able to remove the recoil spring retaining nut without a specialized flathead screwdriver (16mm wide by 2mm thick blade!). I posted a thread awhile ago asking if anyone knew where to get such a specialized tool, but to no avail: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25736&highlight=recoil+tube Try as I might, I was unable to locate a screwdriver of the necessary dimensions (though maybe Benelli makes a special tool for the purpose?) So, I decided to make one, and chronicled the process in case it might be of use to others. 1) Draw out the plans for your tool. I used digital calipers to take exact measurements (all in mm) 2) Obtain a length of O-1 oil-hardening tool steel (ebay), 1 inch wide by 5/16 inch thick 3) You will need some basic tools: dremel with grinding/ cutting wheels, metal files, fint-tipped sharpie, etc 4) Carefully mark out your tool as per your design. Measure twice with calipers. 5) Begin making cuts with the dremel. Obviously you should wear eye protection. A respirator is a good idea too. 6) Finish cutting: 7) File down the driver blades and slightly bevel all edges. Keep tabs on exact dimensions with calipers. 8) Drill a hole (you'll see why...) and sand with 200, 400, 800 grit metal sandpaper to finish the operating surfaces of the tool. 9) Make sure the tool fits and operates exactly how it should at this point. We are going to heat treat it, after which it will become un-machineable. http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5575431057/ Notice the wire that has been installed so our tool can be plunged into the depths of a charcoal furnace. 10) Next we harden. You will need: charcoal barbecue igniter plus charcoal, tongs or pliers, a magnet, oil (I used motor oil). 11) Heat the tool to 1450 plus degrees F. This means cherry red to orange. At the critical temperature threshold where the carbon and iron shifts phases, the steel will become non-magnetic. Confirm this with the magnet and tongs. 12) Once the correct temperature has been reached, plunge the tool into the oil bath: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5576018360/ The tool should now be about 62-64 RC hardness. Confirm this by running a metal file over its surface; the file should not bite. Hardened tool: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5576018296/ 13) Finally, we temper the tool to make it tough and resilient (and not just hard). I tempered in the oven at 450 degrees F for one hour, to get a final Rc hardness of 58-60. http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5576018416/ You may also use this opportunity to bake some cornbread, should you see fit. Here is the finished tool: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5576018232/ It may not be so pretty (the blue indicates that it will be very tough), but it is extremely functional (fits *perfectly* on the recoil spring retaining nut), hard, and strong. Also very small, so I can carry it on my keychain. Total cost was $10 for the O-1 steel stock. (granted, I already had the tools, charcoal, oil, etc.) EDIT: In the design of the tool, the 6.5mm tab at the bottom (really 6.1mm after filing) is designed to center the recoil spring nut. I *should* have beveled and filed the tip of this tab so it could be used as a rear sight adjustment screwdriver. The 5/16 in stock is just a tiny bit too large to fit in the slot of the adjustment screw without filing. I'd also consider machining a flathead blade on the side of the tool for the picatinny rail screws, so as to have a "Benelli multitool" on a keychain.