ande1497 Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 What is recommend for cleaning the SBE. I do alot of waterfowl hunting and the gun gets sumerged just about every outing. I've heard you can rinse the SBEs off with a water hose is this true? What lub should i be using for the barrel and chamber. Advice would be helpful. thanks RG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threeshot Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 Watering your gun to clean it is not advisable. I am happy with the following products to clean and lube my SBEII. M-Pro 7 to clean the gun. I purchased Slip2000 Piston & Choke Tube Cleaner and use FP-10 for oiling the gun. Shooter Choice FP-10 is licensed to use FP-10. FP-10 and Shooter's Choice FP-10 ....The "FAQ's" Tom Knapp of course recommends the Benelli oil that comes with the gun, but more importantly in this thread, he gives his reasons for avoiding certain oils. super gets stuck Here is FP-10's 4 Product Corrosion Test with instructions of how you can reproduce their test. You can get FP-10 Lubricant at Brownells stock number 934-110-004. CheaperThanDirt also carries the FP-10 oil. I purchased Slip2000 Choke Tube Cleaner to help me reduce the amount of time I spend cleaning the gun. While the choke tube sits in the solution, I am busy cleaning other parts of the gun. It will remove the worst of the carbon/plastic fowling. You may want to purchase a Chamber Brush for cleaning not only the chamber, but for cleaning the choke tube while using your favorite gun cleaner. I use Birchwood Choke Tube Lube for the choke tube threads and FP-10 oil on the rest of the gun metal. I put a layer of FP-10 oil within the barrel with the choke removed, including the area where the choke tube resides. Then a layer of FP-10 oil on the entire removed choke tube. You then add a bead of Birchwood Choke Tube Lube to the front of the threads of the removed choke tube (front being the threads that will first engage the threads in the barrel) and screw-in the choke tube and tighten. Regards threeshot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drundel Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 hollycrap dude, I'm rough on my stuff, but only the gun from action down gets underwater on a bad hunt. here is what I do when that happens to mine. I take off the butt pad, lock the action open and spray lots of corrosion-x in there until it starts draining from the recoil spring, then I take the bolt out, clean the recievere, the bolt, the barrel and if you got water in the mag tube, it too. i like fp-10 on the rails and the action itself. if its not camo, use corrosion-x on the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ande1497 Posted October 7, 2004 Author Share Posted October 7, 2004 thanks threeshot and Drundel. This helps alot. I'm hard on my stuff but thats why i try to buy the best out there. I have dunked both my SBE's in the marsh, unloaded them dumped the water out, reloaded them and kept hunting with no problems. I feel they are a tough gun and can handle anything. Maybe i'm using the wrong gun for this enviroment but they work. I hunt on a floating bog, it takes 1.5 hrs just to get to the blind without a boat. There is no way to bring a boat into the area. just about every other step you sink to the top of your chestwaiters. You all know between the gun, ammo, decoys, gear and trying not to get soaked you can see how the gun goes under water. Its tough hunting but we shot alot of birds. Some say its not worth it, i on the other hand love to see those big green heads drop in the decoys. thanks for the help RG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69beers Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 Check out the SRM stainless steel recoil spring assembly ($120) and magazine tube kit ($25). The biggest problem you'll get from corrosion in the SBE will happen inside the recoil spring assmebly. Cleaning it is a pain and too much lube can cause jams. I use Militec-1 for lube. A very small amount goes a very long way and protects against water great. They may be a little expensive, but it was worth it to me to never have to worry about it again. The best thing about the stainless set up it they recommend cleaning it out with........water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threeshot Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 I agree regarding the stainless steel recoil spring if you are talking about the SBE vs. the SBEII. From Benelli's website on the SBEII model: A new corrosion resistant recoil spring and guide remain free of rust and ride in a new recoil tube that is easily cleaned by removing the quick-detachable recoil pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drundel Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 Yea that sounds pretty **** rough. I hunt in the salt marsh and some areas are like that, but not near an 1.5 hours worth! I have replaced all my parts in my SBE1 with surecycle parts and so far no rust. One thing I would suggest for you guys are sleds and a floating gun case. Drake has a sweet one that opens all the way to dry out and with sleds you can pull all your gear out there. We use them and it sure beats carring gear on your shoulders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard G. Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 Hello, I just bought a Benelli M4 with the Chrome lined barrel. I have looked everywhere for information on what kind of solvent bore cleaner and oil to use for Chromium. I'm really afraid to use just anything. I found M-PRO 7 GUN CLEANER"> that is supposedly "harmless to all metal surfaces, including titanium, aluminum and carbon-discolored stainless steel," but does that mean Chromium? Any of you guys know? Appreciate the help. Richard G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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