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Cleaning M2 before first shooting?


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What do you recommend I use to clean the mechanism of my M2 before a shoot it for the first time? I thought I'd break it down as per the manual and clean any oil or grease off it with Outers Crud Cutter - cleaner/degreaser, wipe it off well and then put just a little Hoppe's Elite gun oil on it. Also, can you tell me specifically just what does have to be oiled - the manual is a little vague. Thanks a bunch!

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The very first thing to do is completely strip the gun down and clean all parts with Hoppes 9 or some other solvent. You MUST clean off all the packing grease off EVERY part. This includes - IMHO - even the spring inside the recoil spring tube.


To remove the spring inside the spring recoil tube you'll need to apply heat to the bolt head as it has lock-tight applied at the factory (a Bic lighter ought to do the trick; just need enough heat to loosen the lock-tight). You'll want to disassemble and clean this part because of any packing grease but also because you will eventually get dirt inside the tube and it will interfere with the operation of the inertia recoil. Take it apart now and you'll be good to go for future cleaning when warranted.


Then run a 100 rounds or so through the gun. Light trap loads will be fine.


Regards oiling: use a synthetic like FP-10. If you're shooting in below freezing temps, I'd run the gun dry or with very very little oil under the bolt assembly (very little). If running in warmer temps, apply very little oil on bolt rails and under bolt assembly.


Bottomline: freezing temps and below start to slow the action of the inertia down, so use very very little, and remember that oil acts as a dirt and dust attractor, again, another reason for using oil sparingly.


Good luck!


The M2 is a great shottie.

Edited by SpaceDog
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I have a new SS 20 gauge and I just removed the recoil spring for cleaning (it needed it). I notice that the retaining bolt has a threaded plastic "lock" ring just above the metal threads. I heated mine with a heat gun for removal and managed not to destroy the plastic lock ring. Does anyone know if Benelli is still using locktite with plastic lock rings. Do we still need to heat the newer spring tubes to remove the spring retaining bolt?

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