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About BlackDogs3

  • Birthday 04/30/1949

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  1. You don't live in the land of drunk cheeseheads, and now, the land of drunk and armed cheeseheads. I really don't like hand guns. I'm just looking for an alternative in length and weight for my SBEII. I really do not want to be lugging my SBEII around town. If I can get a M4 short enough, then I could stick it in a back pack or something. I think the M4 is the way to go, I am still researching the collapsable stock issue. Looks like it maybe illegal in the US. I don't think I can shorten an inertia recoil Benelli much due to the recoil tube in the stock. This is not something I really want to do, but how else do you navigate around the armed cheeseheads? Besides, if we are arming citizens, we should be ARMING citizens. Mike - like your tagg, love my dogs.
  2. No the concealed carry law is the sad joke, and I am serious.
  3. Can you buy a Benelli that short stock or does it have to be modified?
  4. They are passing or soon will pass a concealed carry law here in Cheeseland. I am not a fan of hand guns, too much aiming. How short can you get a M4 or other Benelli and still be legal? I think I want a Benelli with an extended mag as my cc.
  5. Should have gone with a 20 ga SuperSport. I am killing a lot of birds this year at 30 yards with the THIRD shot. Love the gun.
  6. If everyone got their limit, that's 33 roosters. Mind telling us how much it cost for 11 dudes to get 33 roosters? Everyone is gaga over SD pheasants, but it is all private land and released birds. I can get just as many birds by myself at the local game farm if I want to spend the $$. Now if they were shot on non-stocked public land, then that's another story.
  7. Replace the gel recoil pad with a LimbSaver. You will really like the difference. Shooting 3.5 inch steel with my SBE scared me until I switched to a LimbSaver. I don't know why the Benelli gel pads don't work that well, but I have changed all of my Benelli's including two twenty gauges to LimbSavers. Much better recoil pad and a lot cheaper to buy.
  8. This is a very common problem with young labs. You can usually solve this problem literally in a couple of minutes. Take a check cord, tie it to a pole, tree, or other very solid object with about 15 to 20 feet of slack (you want your dog to get up to speed before he runs out of check cord). Give your dog the sit/stay/don't f**king move command (I use the word "Hup" to distinguish the "sit" command from "if you move you die - HUP" command). Make sure your check cord has a big noisy and strong clip, so the your dog can hear you attach it to his collar. Use a wide nylon collar for this, not a choke chain - you don't want to hurt your dog, just convince him to sit and stay. Give the "Hup" command, clip the check cord to the collar with a loud snap. Toss the bumper, if your dog breaks, just get out of the way. He will stop quickly, once he runs out of check cord. My oldest dog did an "all four feet in the air jerk/stop" on his first try and he landed on his back. I repeated the exercise and he went out a bit but nowhere near the end on the check cord. Dogs in general and Labs in particular are smart and learn quickly especially if the correction is comming from somewhere besides you. Once your dog is convinced he cannot get very far with the check cord attached and is steady on hup while you are tossing the dummy, unhook the check cord and send him for the retrieve. Repeat this until he is steady when you toss the dummy. I give both of my dogs a "mark" command when I don't want them to chase the dummy on the throw but rather watch where it goes. Once your dog is steady, you can then just snap the check cord behind his neck without actually attaching it to the collar and then let the check cord fall to the ground behind your dog. Your dog will basically think he is still attached and should be steady until you send him. This training needs to be reinforced regularly. You should not need the check cord for the reinforcement training, but you will have to reinforce the "hup" command. Once you dog has the idea that "hup" is a serious command, you can start whistle training (I use a single long blast for "hup") by giving the "hup" command followed quickly by the whistle command. If you want your dog steady on birds, you will have to get a partner and buy some birds for training. Spin up a bird and put it in cover, have your partner (who should be a good shot) flush the bird about 20 yards in front of your dog while you control him (no gun for you). If your dog is steady on the flush, have your partner shoot the bird and send your dog for the retrieve. If your dog breaks, the bird does not get shot and your dog watches it fly away. As you can see, getting a dog steady to wing and shot is a lot of work, a lot of birds, and expensive. Check out Richard A. Wolters books "Game Dog" (for upland game) and "Water Dog" (ducks). He goes over all kinds of methods to train dogs without collars. I wouldn't use a shock collar on a lab unless you have one of the rare blockheads or you want to do trials with your dog (a whole other level of crazy, but fun and the dogs are very very impressive). The weather has improved and the boys and I are starting our summer training for the fall. Reinforcing everything: hup to whistle at a distance, whistle commands in general, blind retrieves, water retrieves, baseball, hand signals - basically the reason that I have dogs. Way too much fun.
  9. I agree with Tucker and I follow the this sage piece of advice: "Arguing with idiots makes you an idiot". If any researched facts were presented on this thread, it might be worth a discussion. All I am seeing is 3rd grade name calling and I for one, am older than that.
  10. Not diss'n your shooting, I just don't want pissed off bobcats wandering around my property. :-)
  11. SuperSport!! The barrel is ported just like very expensive trap/skeet guns. I use my 20 ga almost exclusively as my pheasant hunting gun. A disadvantage of all of the hunting semi-autos is the weight and/or barrel length. Skeet guns tend to be heavy in the 10 - 12 lb range because the weight helps with follow-through which is essential for high scoring skeet shooting. Most serious skeet shooters use a 12 ga OU with a set of barrel inserts for 20 and 28 ga., and .410 so that they can shoot in all bore classifications. This system also has the advantage of shooting basically the same gun for all gauges. For trap, the biggest difference is the barrel length. Trap guns have barrels in the 32" range to help with sighting the target. Using a Benelli auto in either sport has the disadvantage of the lack of a specifically made shell catcher for Benelli shotguns. On the trap or skeet range, tossing hulls all over the place is frowned upon. Most autos have shell catchers that attach to the ejection port to keep the shell from flying into the shooter beside you in trap. I am not aware of a manufacturer that makes a shell catcher for the Benelli. I use a rubber band wrapped around the ejection port as a shell catcher when I shoot trap/skeet with my autos, not elegant but it works.
  12. Agreed. I use progressive lenses for driving but single vision for shooting. I find that the progressive lenses tend to bring the gun into focus instead of the clay target, very distracting.
  13. I would tell you, but you shoot kittens.
  14. I traded in a field M1 12 ga camo with a 28" barrel on a new SBEII last winter and I got $550 for the trade. They listed my gun for $650 and that was a year ago. The gun was in excellent shape with case and all of the tools, chokes, and shims. The sold the gun within a month.
  15. Take a look at the Montefeltro and SuperSport 20 ga. I have used both for pheasant and they are both great guns that can hold 5 shells (4+1). Sold my Monte to a friend (who loves it) to get the SuperSport which is now my favorite gun for birds. Both guns have the extended Crio chokes which pattern lead and steel very very well. (I wrote this before reading your final comment, the Monte 20 ga IS a great gun. You made a wise decision)
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