SpaceDog

Why not continue your polishing approach and apply it to the carrier latch or at least the areas where the shell is sticking? There's not doubt that some make of shells have slightly different shell part measurements: enough to cycle in some makes/models, but not so in others.

Lazy? More like thoughtful and well planned out. Nice work. When I removed the mag from my M2 I used the same tool but I didn't have to heat the magazine to loosen whatever "loctiteish" stuff they use on it. Yes, I had to use a vise to hold it. :-)

LOL I agree Truckcop When it comes to oiling (lightly) and it sticking in cold temps versus not oiling and it not sticking in cold temps, I have a tendency to use the gun w/o oiling. ;-) You point is well taken.... I need to be more selective in where, how much, and what type the oil I use.

M4John, Try here: http://www.nraila.org/GunLaws/ O here: http://www.atf.gov/firearms You can always send them a question....

agm65ccip, I want to thank you too. I've been following this thread intensely and it's very good info. I too will check those pieces as well. I really believe the my M2 ought to be less "sticky" even when completely cleaned and very very lightly oiled in the right spots. Your posts highlight some other points I need to look at closer. Thanks for all your help!

'Cept the movement is slow w/o any oil. ? I'll try some different synthetic oil (very very little) and see if that helps loosen the movement. When I have used oil I've used FP-10.

Recoil tube has been cleaned many times since I've owned it. I just clean it when I clean the rest of the gun - habit. I run my M2 dry all the time. I think it's expension because everything else is the same when comparing cold temp to warm temp use.

I've been experiencing the same issue. Pulling back the bolt is harder and also when closing the bolt (whether by pushing on the bolt handle or by pushing the carrier button). Cycles ok, but I wonder if the tolerances are too tight and don't take into account metal expansion in cold temps. ??

Ah, I'm thinking you wouldn't be able to reassemble it. I guess you're attempting to have a more tightened spring in the tube so as to have greater recoil. Correct? If so, don't you think the Benelli engineers would have shortened it more themselves? Just asking a question.... There are after-market recoil spring and tube assemblies you might want to check out first before you alter your original tube.

The very first thing to do is completely strip the gun down and clean all parts with Hoppes 9 or some other solvent. You MUST clean off all the packing grease off EVERY part. This includes - IMHO - even the spring inside the recoil spring tube. To remove the spring inside the spring recoil tube you'll need to apply heat to the bolt head as it has lock-tight applied at the factory (a Bic lighter ought to do the trick; just need enough heat to loosen the lock-tight). You'll want to disassemble and clean this part because of any packing grease but also because you will eventually get dirt inside the tube and it will interfere with the operation of the inertia recoil. Take it apart now and you'll be good to go for future cleaning when warranted. Then run a 100 rounds or so through the gun. Light trap loads will be fine. Regards oiling: use a synthetic like FP-10. If you're shooting in below freezing temps, I'd run the gun dry or with very very little oil under the bolt assembly (very little). If running in warmer temps, apply very little oil on bolt rails and under bolt assembly. Bottomline: freezing temps and below start to slow the action of the inertia down, so use very very little, and remember that oil acts as a dirt and dust attractor, again, another reason for using oil sparingly. Good luck! The M2 is a great shottie.

The very first thing to do is completely strip the gun down and clean all parts with Hoppes 9 or some other solvent. You MUST clean off all the packing grease off EVERY part. This includes - IMHO - even the spring inside the recoil spring tube. To remove the spring inside the spring recoil tube you'll need to apply heat to the bolt head as it has lock-tight applied at the factory (a Bic lighter ought to do the trick; just need enough heat to loosen the lock-tight). You'll want to disassemble and clean this part because of any packing grease but also because you will eventually get dirt inside the tube and it will interfere with the operation of the inertia recoil. Take it apart now and you'll be good to go for future cleaning when warranted. Then run a 100 rounds or so through the gun. Light trap loads will be fine.

Thanks Adam!

Anyone know what the bore size is of the factory M2 barrel?

I too just got a new M2. Awesome gun. Got a great deal from Guns Galore in Fenton MI. Good luck during the season!