Phoenix Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Is there anyone out there reloading an R1? Any helpful hints? I am using RCBS equipment and trying to load the 300 Win Mag. On top of my ignorance I am new to reloading in general. Should I use a crimp? What is a good bullet? Load? Any info will most likely help me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucker301 Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 In my opinion you should always crimp ammo that is to be used for hunting in general, but especially if it is for a semi-automatic. I can't help you with load selection. Never reloaded for 300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planoattorney Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 I too would like to get some info on reloading for an R1 (30-06). I am new to reloading and originally thought I would only reload for a 7MM Rem Mag (bolt) but now I am privileged to need to reload for a 30-06 R1 as well. How do I reload for a semi-auto as opposed to a bolt? I read somewhere, can't find the post now, that there is a die that is preferred for the R1 (I have the impression it is not a neck and not a full length but something in between). Anyone able to verify that fact? The R1 has a 1-11 twist on the .300, is that correct for all calibers? If so, does that mean use flat bottom bullets? As I said, I am new to this, trying to learn before I spend. What is a normal twist, is Benelli more or less than average? How would I check for actual twists (my 7MM is a Ranger Arms - Governor built in 1968, so I want to check it too and there is no manual or data online, plus I read one post that indicated the twist rate of a Benelli R1 .300 is actually 1-11.75 not 1-11 as the book indicates). What difference does this make, the more or less twist rate? What is better? I think, but don't know, that it affects bullet selection, if so, I don't need know the mechanics (would still like to know if anyone can educate) but I do need to know how it affects bullet choice - i.e. more twist means boat tail, less twist means flat bottom or is it vice versa or does it just not matter at all? Anyone figured out if the bullet should be set deeper or longer than factory? Does it help accuracy? Does it affect chambering? Does the R1 like shorter or longer rounds? Can I neck size only, and does it matter? Anyone had particularly good or bad experience with any specific brass, bullet, or factory ammo? Last, but perhaps most important, I sort of gained an extremely uneducated opinion (not sure what gave me this idea) that the ARGO system is very particular on powder. True or not true? If true, which powder do I need to procure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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