notrabmas Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 (edited) Hi everyone, I'm going through some problems with my M4 I have no clue what to do. I recently bought one (3 days ago) and installed the Sidearmor Mod 3 rail system, used locktite on the threads of the screws and everything. However, now I have no clue how to take the barrel off. I know you are supposed to turn the knob and it loosens the front. My second problem is I fired it for the first time today (fired about 7 birdshot loads which all failed to eject [kinda expected them too]) and then I put 1 slug in the chamber and fired it. After I did, I went to put another slug in the chamber, but the bolt is retracted all the way in the receiver and stuck. I pushed the bolt release, but it didn't do anything. I took out the trigger assembly (which was difficult because of the bolt) and it wouldn't budge at all. I know I should completely field strip the gun, but I can't take off the barrel. What do I do? Also, does putting on the sidearmor system void the warranty? Edited March 30, 2013 by notrabmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 To take off the barrel you simply remove the retaining nut on the front of the mag tube and pull the barrel assembly straight off. I pull and lock the bolt back first. I don't know anything about the sidearmor rig and if it interferes or not. If so, take it off and leave it off until you figure out what's going on with your M4. BTW - I have had 3 M4s now, each one fed Walmart Bulk Pack with no issues. I have heard others have had issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 The sidearmor system does interfere, but the part that does interfere was removed and the barrel still doesn't come off. The retaining but is off, as well. I'm starting to think somehow the barrel is stopping the bolt from releasing. To take off the barrel you simply remove the retaining nut on the front of the mag tube and pull the barrel assembly straight off. I pull and lock the bolt back first. I don't know anything about the sidearmor rig and if it interferes or not. If so, take it off and leave it off until you figure out what's going on with your M4. BTW - I have had 3 M4s now, each one fed Walmart Bulk Pack with no issues. I have heard others have had issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Your warranty is fine. Why the barrel won't pull free is odd. I assume you have take. Off the magazine cap and loosened the knob on the front of the SideArmor rail. I'm wondering if the fasteners holding the rail to the receiver are installed correctly? If the screws are too long, and entering the barrel, they could be binding the barrel. Try backing the screws out several turns each, and try to pull the barrel. Look at the Sidearmor instructions and see if you're supposed to use the washers from the factory rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 (edited) It was the screws in the receiver. Mine didn't come with any washers though. I just used the factory screws with locktite. Edit: Should I file down the screws? Your warranty is fine. Why the barrel won't pull free is odd. I assume you have take. Off the magazine cap and loosened the knob on the front of the SideArmor rail. I'm wondering if the fasteners holding the rail to the receiver are installed correctly? If the screws are too long, and entering the barrel, they could be binding the barrel. Try backing the screws out several turns each, and try to pull the barrel. Look at the Sidearmor instructions and see if you're supposed to use the washers from the factory rail. Edited March 30, 2013 by notrabmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 No filing of screws. Check your factory rail. It probably has the washers stuck in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Dang I hope that didn't gouge your barrel or worse your bolt. After you locate your washers and re-install, make sure to do so without the barrel or bolt in then feel inside the receiver to make sure nothing is protruding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Found the washers in the original rail. The bolt was slightly scratched, but it is not damaged at all. Thanks again everyone. I don't know what I would do without this forum haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 1 more question though. How do you take the barrel off with the sidearmor rail system on? Do you just turn the knob? Are you supposed to use loctite on all 8 screws (5 on the receiver, 3 in the front clamp)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 The barrel is probably fine. At worst, there is a small mark where the screw made contact. The mark would be concealed when installed anyway. You should be torquing the rail screws to 16-18 inch pounds. You want to tighten them like you do the lug nuts on a car. Don't just crank one down and move on. Put each one in loose, the. Start snugging them up. Blue locktite is recommended. I would also wire brush the fasteners clean, then prep them and the receiver with locktite primer. Guessing at the torque needed is dangerous. Either it will be too loose and shoot loose, or you risk stripping the fine aluminum threads. You won't be happy if you strip the threads. You'll have to find a gunsmith to install helicoils. Those SideArmor rails put a lot of weight and strain on those five finely threaded holes. They get shocked each time you fire the weapon since it is bound to the barrel. If you could watch the weapon fire in slow motion, you'd see the entire top rail flex. What did you add the SideArmor rail for anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Use locktite on the five receiver threads, and the two Allen head screws that clamp to the barrel. You shouldn't put locktite on the knob screw. The knob screw is what you loosen to remove the barrel from the receiver/top rail. When you reinstall, you tighten that knob back down to support the front of the SideArmor rail. Check the knob periodically when shooting, my old SideArmor rail had a tendency to shoot loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Wanted the side saddle, a mil spec rail, and I planned on adding a flashlight. I know your set up you made is perfect for a flashlight, but I am definitely not handy enough to do it. Will do on everything you told me. The barrel is probably fine. At worst, there is a small mark where the screw made contact. The mark would be concealed when installed anyway. You should be torquing the rail screws to 16-18 inch pounds. You want to tighten them like you do the lug nuts on a car. Don't just crank one down and move on. Put each one in loose, the. Start snugging them up. Blue locktite is recommended. I would also wire brush the fasteners clean, then prep them and the receiver with locktite primer. Guessing at the torque needed is dangerous. Either it will be too loose and shoot loose, or you risk stripping the fine aluminum threads. You won't be happy if you strip the threads. You'll have to find a gunsmith to install helicoils. Those SideArmor rails put a lot of weight and strain on those five finely threaded holes. They get shocked each time you fire the weapon since it is bound to the barrel. If you could watch the weapon fire in slow motion, you'd see the entire top rail flex. What did you add the SideArmor rail for anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Did you look at he Velcro 3gunner side saddle? They weigh nothing when shells are removed. A true spec top rail is a good choice if you're going to mount something. I like the lightweight carriercomp of the FFT copy. Mounting a light is tricky. I've struggled with it on the m4 for 9 years. I've thought about building some of the mounts I made to sell, but I wasn't really sure if anyone was interested. I sent the set I made off this morning to be professionally Cerakoted so they will look better! Pay close attention to how much weight you are slapping on the M4. It's easy to turn it into an overweight pig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrabmas Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Did you look at he Velcro 3gunner side saddle? They weigh nothing when shells are removed. A true spec top rail is a good choice if you're going to mount something. I like the lightweight carriercomp of the FFT copy. Mounting a light is tricky. I've struggled with it on the m4 for 9 years. I've thought about building some of the mounts I made to sell, but I wasn't really sure if anyone was interested. I sent the set I made off this morning to be professionally Cerakoted so they will look better! Pay close attention to how much weight you are slapping on the M4. It's easy to turn it into an overweight pig. The weight feels pretty good so far, I would consider the other ones if I hadn't spent $350 on it haha. I feel obligated to use it because of the cost. The only think I really have left to add is an Aimpoint Micro t-1 and a surefire x300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I hear ya. I've had to back peddle on a bunch of purchases over the years. The T1 is a good choice for an optic. I just got mine back from painting this week. The X300 Ultra is the one you want. They're cheap and 500 lumens. Careful when using the momentary activation when you're actually shooting. The switch can jam your thumb. The same occurs with the Scout series. One thing I didn't like with the SideArmor was how far the weapon light hangs away from the rail. What I would recommend trying is take the M4 out stripped down near stock and compare how it handles and shoots between the two different weight profiles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 That picture perfectly demonstrates what I don't like about rail attaching everything. So much wasted space, added bulk, snag hazards and just aesthetically objectionable. The thorntail may help slightly. Of course the options aren't always better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 The thorntail would be a big improvement over the LaRue or factory thumb screw mount. Another issue I had was mainly due to my truckasaurus hands was how the rail would crowd my hand placement. I'm told that the gen2 and gen3 weigh even more than the gen1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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