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Muzzle Brake


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Has anyone had a muzzle brake installed on their R1? I have a 300 Win Mag R1 and want to get a muzzle brake on it not so much for recoil but to help with keeping on target on follow up shots. Since the R1 has a cryo treated barrel I was not sure that installing a muzzle brake would be an option due to the machining needed. I spoke with the folks at Mag-na-port and they use a low voltage EDM to port the actual barrel that will not affect its metalurgy. So, that's an option; however, I really wanted a Vias muzzle brake. Anyone with any experience here? Thanks, Glenn

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For what it's worth ... I have a muzzle brake on my .300 Browning BAR w/BOSS system. Works fine; BUT ... be prepared for horrendous deafening noise with each and every shot. In all my years of hunting I can't remember really hearing the gun go off ... until I shot the BAR. If you hunt with hearing protection ... and I never met someone who did ... you might get away with a brake. Personally, I think whatever you're going to gain in "muzzle jump" staying on target ... you're going to lose three fold between the "ports" which are aimed down & back sending a substantial shockwave stirring things up around/under you and the disorientation factor (whatever the degree) in the hellacious roar. I find myself pulling my hat down over my ears everytime I see a deer these days. LOL One of these days I'm going to get around to buying the unported BOSS piece for using in the field.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Follow up...


According to the folks at Vias Muzzle Brakes machining the end of a cryogenically treated barrel would be fine. Not a problem.


OK, so now I'll call Benelli tech support and see what they say about warranties and such...


To be cont'...




P.S. Thanks for the info Butch-M.

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  • 1 month later...

It's Done!


I got my beloved R1 barrel back today from Ron at Vais muzzle brakes. Took a little over 3 weeks including all the shipping time. It looks great! Very clean install. Removes and installs easy -- in fact, the gun kinda looks naked without it now. I can't wait to shoot it this sunday. Total cost with to and from shipping $260.


Butch is right, the holes in this thing point in every direction including down. Which means prone shots low to the ground are gonna be a little tricky. Up here in Michigan it usually snows so maybe it wont be an issue. Thing is for me, I do most of my hunting either in a blind (sitting) or walking around.


As far as the noise increase is concerned: I always wear hearing protection when hunting -- I keep my ear plugs just slightly outta my ears (they are like walkman headphones) and if I rock my head side to side they slide right in just before I shoot. Slick eh?


Now of course Benelli had to come out with the comfort tech version which makes this whole muzzle brake exercise kind of a mute point. Then again, I wonder if the comfort tech system would provide as much reduction in recoil as a brake?


Gears turning...


Hmmm, I'm going to find out if the stock and hand grip/fore end are available for retro fit. I'm thinking a field comparison is in order here. Well, time to send out a few emails today and see what turns up.


To be con't.



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Photo of my Rifle sportin' its new look, eh? OK, hold on.


Scrambling for camera...


Not found.


Um, here's a link to the Vais site that has a few photos of the brake. Hope this holds until I get my digital thinga ma-giggy located.




BTW I didn't get to shoot today. Rain delay. So, I did the next best thing and went to Cabela's instead. No sign of any new R1 Comfortech's. The two guys behind the gun counter I spoke with had no idea when they might get it. Hmmmmm.


Aw shucks...

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Got a reply from Cabela's about the availability of the comfortech stock and fore grip. Seems like they are up for grabs. Also asked about sights and the comfortech R1. below is what they said:


"In speaking with the manufacturer, the Benelli sights are available. The cost of this item is $129.99, the stock cost is $209.99, and the forend cost is $154.99 plus $13.95 shipping and handling. However, we are unable to do a special order for an F.F.L. gun."


So, it seems that they can not get the R1 comfortech but can get the grips. Hmmmm. Maybe they got mixed up. I'm not sure. I have yet to get a response back to the email I sent Benelli cust support about the comfortech stock. Maybe I'll just call.


Nelli girl, you got any input on this? Do you know when the R1 is going to be in stores or if the comfortech stocks are available?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So to replace your wooden R1 Stock with the new synthetic Comfor-Tech stock would be $365?


Please find your camera and post a few pictures, too. I'm very interested to see your results.


One other thing...I verified with BlackStar in Texas that cutting flutes or installing a muzzle brake on a cryo-treated barrel does not change any of the cryo properties.

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  • 2 weeks later...



I got a reply from Benelli customer service from the email I sent 3 weeks ago. AND...


The comfort tech replacement parts are NOT available! They said check back in December.


It did seem a little off that Cabela's said they were available and not the gun as of yet. It's likley the gun is not available on-line but if you went into the store they'd be able to quote a price. Still, the grips are a no-go for this season.


Anyway, I have a very rare weekend off and I am heading out to the range to break in my Rifle and find out which round shoots best. I can hardly wait.


I'll let you all know.



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  • 3 weeks later...

Update - Field test,


So, two good trips to the range with the new muzzle brake and I have to say it does work reasonably well. It imparts a definate reduction in recoil without a huge increase in noise. There is still muzzle climb though. Here's what I did and what happened -- I wanted to make a good comparison so I did the same thing both trips.


Before sighting in as a pure test of recoil and noise:


1) First, I shot 4 rounds in quick succession with the thread cap on and no muzzle brake.


Yeah, if you do not plant the 300 Win Mag squarely in your shoulder it's going to kick good enough to cause some discomfort. Other than that, a pure joy to shoot.


2) On the second trial I fired off another 4 shot volley with the muzzle Brake. Before I even pulled the trigger I made double sure I had my hearing protection fitted correctly and checked the buttstock for firmness on my shoulder.


To my surprise the noise was not that much louder. Subjectively the recoil was about one-third to half. Much like a .270 with a good recoil pad. It is interesting to note that muzzle climb was somehat reduced, but still very present with this particular muzzle brake.


I then repeated the above test at the end of my session after sighting in and trying various rounds for accuracy. This one was to see how quickly I could get back on target with and without the muzzlebrake.


1) 4 rounds in quick succession threaded cap on, muzzle brake off.


It takes a few moments in-between rounds to recover from a 300 Win Mag shot to get back on target accurately. (By "accurately" I mean within 2"-3" at 100 yards shooting as fast as you can. Realistically, my shots would likely be much closer considering I "still hunt" in very dense woods where 25-50 yard shots are typical. Therefore, I'm willing to accept 2"-3" at 100 yards as accurate for 2nd, 3rd, and forth shots.)


2) Muzzle brake on same 4 round volley.


Much better. Faster on-target time and better accuracy; however, muzzle climb is still there and is now the limiting factor. You must pull the barrel back down on target and that takes precious moments. Enought time to miss the opportunity for the 2nd shot and that's significant.


The reason I wanted a muzzle brake in the first place was primarily for quicker follow up shots. Second a reduction in recoil. This particular muzzle brake (a Vais Arms model) has relief ports 360 degrees that allow for reduced recoil. This dissapates the muzzle blast in a full circle plane perpendicular to the end of the barrel. Many muzzle brakes feature a discharge pattern that helps with muzlle climb. They do not discharge straight down, only to the sides and top.


Obviously, true reduced recoil via a muzle brake in and of itself helps with follow up shots but the pattern of discharge plays a significant role with a 300 Win Mag.


Maybe I'll thread and plug the bottom ports on the brake to see if I can sacrafice a bit of recoil reduction in favor or less muzzle climb. Ok, so before I do that I'll write Ron at Vais arms and see if that idea gives him a heart attack. His muzzle brake really is a work of art.


I now wonder if the comfortech system that reduces Felt Recoil vs a reduction in True Recoil speeds up follow up shots any better than a muzzle brake. I wish someone here would go buy one and gives us all the answers to the test!


To be Continued...



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  • 2 weeks later...

Update non-symetrical muzzle brake:


So, after thinking it over and having serious second thoughts about plugging the downward facing port holes to reduce barrel climb, I contacted the manufacturer of my muzzle brake (Vais Arms--the same brake Lazzeroni Arms uses).


This is what I wrote:


"I'm wondering if a muzzle brake design without port holes facing down would help with muzzle climb (and follow up shots with a semi-auto), particularly with a magnum caliber rifle. Also what about the concern that ground debris is being kicked up etc. by downward facing port holes as in your brake design?


I suspect that a non-symmetrical port configuration would hurt accuracy, despite any advantage in muzzle climb decrease. If I'm on track with this, barrel harmonics would be much more dynamic and unpredictable in a non-symmetrical brake design.


Ron Bartlett replied:


"You are exactly right about leaving the ports off of the bottom of the brake---it destroys accuracy. Also, several of my customers shoot prone with rifles we have installed brakes on. They simply put a piece of carpet or a matt under the muzzle to keep the dust down."


OK then, I'll keep my very symetrical muzzle brake and deal with the climb issue thru practice. I'm off to the gun range again on Sunday. This time I'm taking along a Limb Saver Barrel De-Resonator. It is sapposed to do the opposite of what a non-symetrical muzzle brake would do: which is decrease vibratory resonance and increase accuracy. This ought to be fun!


Get back with you folks with the results later.



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Experiencing a bit of a learning curve on the reply to your posting. Sorry about that. Anyway, that's a crock about asymmetrical muzzle brakes negatively affecting accuracy. Of course that is the answer you would get from a manufacturer who doesn't make an asymmetrical muzzle brake. I have a Holland QD (Quick Discharge) asymmetrical brake on my 378 Weatherby - it is awesome. It reduces recoil to the point where the rifle kicks less than a lightweight 270 Winchester. Virtually eliminates muzzle jump. I average 0.60" - 0.75" groups with the gun, and the 378 Weatherby shooting 270 grain Barnes Triple shocks is hardly a target rifle. Another fine asymettrical brake is the JP brake, this brake is butt ugly, looks like the end of a howitzer. However, it is if anything more effective at reducing muzzle jump than the Holland. I have had this on the 378 Weatherby, a friend of mine has one on his 340 Weatherby. I once watched a jackrabbit explode when my 270 grain Barnes TSX hit it at a range of 140 yards - the rifle does not leave the rest when shooting. This combination gets 0.6" groups consistently - the rifle has a custom Krieger barrel, 2 lb. trigger, Nightforce scope, etc. My friend one-shot 5 animals recently on a trip to New Zealand with his JP- braked 340, including a 250 yard shot on a 386 class Red Stag. I would say these brakes increase accuracy rahter than decrease it. If you want a great brake that looks good and elimates muzzle jump, check out the Holland QD - great company to do business with.


[ 10-18-2005, 12:23 AM: Message edited by: surfdog ]

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