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Why not buy a R1?


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I'm looking to upgrade my centerfire rifle section, and am leaning very heavily towards the R1 in .30-06. I am intrigued by the Browning BAR Longtrac Stalker in .30-06, mainly because it's cheaper, and still looks space age...


I love the looks, feel, and operation of my SBE2, and am really drawn to it's twin.



If they were the same price...


Is there any advantage to the BAR over the R1 Comfortec? How about the R1 over the BAR?


Thanks for your opinions.

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I'll let you know in about two months.

I had an R1, and it was OK, but I didn't like having re-zero after disassembly and cleaning, and the gas system fouled heavily with just a few rounds.


I now have a Shortrac Stalker and our general season begins Saturday.


At the range, thus far, the Browning is slightly more accurate, but it hold zero after cleaning, which is important to me.

I don't want to have to go back to the bench after a rainy day or two of hunting.


I'd give a slight edge to Benelli in the quality of fit and finish, but it's not enough to justify the price differences.


I'll also point out that critical parts may be easier to come by for the Browning should they be needed in a hurry.

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The Benelli is built on the principal of the M4 shotgun with twin gas tubes and plungers. I too am trying to decide on Benelli or Browning.


What it the deal with the Zero after cleaning? I thought the barrel was intergral with the upper receiver which is what the scope is mounted to. In theroy the scope should always be in alignment with the barrel even if you pull the barrel off for cleaning.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...


What it the deal with the Zero after cleaning? I thought the barrel was intergral with the upper receiver which is what the scope is mounted to. In theroy the scope should always be in alignment with the barrel even if you pull the barrel off for cleaning.


I was wondering the same thing. Does anyone have any input? How often (after what activities) will I need to re-zero if I get the R1?

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The torque in the barrel nut affects the barrel harmonics (how it moves and flexes) when the bullet is sent through it.


These are the same harmonics that BR shooters try to minimize with bull barrels and Browning allows the shooter to tune with the BOSS system.


Other than at the receiver, ANY connection between the barrel and any other part of the rifle can increase the chances for inaccuracies as the metals and other materials expand and contract with temperature changes or slight variances in torque and pressure.


For a rifle, it's usually best to have a free-floating barrel. That is to say that nothing touches the barrel forward of the chamber.


Some lighter weight barrels do OK with a single light pressure point, but it's usually a trial and error affair.

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Thanks tucker.


I'm new to hunting. I just started bird hunting this year, and want to go for pigs and deer later.


I say this because I don't know how many times I will need to zero my rifle/scope in a given year, no matter which rifle I get. I already have a single shot .25-06 with a Bushnell Elite 4200. I wanted to upgrade to a semi auto, just in case the zombies attacked. Haven't shot/zeroed the .25-06 yet...going to the range sucks around here...(don't want to have to zero a whole lot of times in the year...)


I have heard to check it with new loads or after traveling when the scope could have been moved. And then just every so oftern to make sure your'e still good.


Will more than this be required with the R1?


Unfortunately, I started buying guns young, and with military type scenarios in mind, and can't break down and buy a bolt action...I want to be able to get some 10 round mags (for the .30-06 R1 for example) and take on some enemy position ( unlikely, I know...), and also be able to hunt with the same rifle. But some mind numbing maintenece and accuracy issues will not work for me. Unfortunatley, I do not like any other semi auto "hunting' rifle except the R1.


...am I doomed to get a bolt? I do like the ultra light bolts, kimber, weatherby, etc. I think it would be a good partner with my 9 lb single shot. (one for the stand, one for walking) If I get a bolt it will be an ultra light, in the same price class of the R1...I just havent come to terms with paying that money for what I percieve is less capability...


Bolts would require less maintenance, but kick more, and have a slower fire rate, but your'e shots would in theory count more....I don't know anymore...


I wish the R1 was perfect...


Sorry for rambling, just thinking out loud...anyone have advice for a new hunter?



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If you want a higher capacity, reliable, semi-auto that can be used for both hunting and for fending off small armies of zombies, then the AR platform sounds about right to me.


You can get an AR rifle in just about any caliber these days.


Here's a quote from the DPMS website regarding caliber choices.

"204 Ruger, .223 Remington/5.56x45mm, 7.62x39mm, 6.8x43mm SPC, .243 Winchester, .308 Winchester, .260 Remington, .300 Remington SAUM and new in 2008, .338 Federal and 6.5 Creedmoor."


If you can't find happiness in there somewhere, then you're a lost cause ;).


All of their AR's are well-built and accurate; before and after takedown.


The R1 is a decent hunting rifle.

You can probably comfortably disassemble and re-assemble the weapon and shoot non-dangerous game (rules out zombies) out to 250 yards without too much concern for subtle shifts in zero.


I really like my new Browning BAR Shortrac Stalker, but it's just a 5 rounder.


Buddy of mine hunts with a HK model 940 in 30-06 that he bought new in the early 80's.

That thing is easily the most accurate and relieable semi-automatic sporting rifle I've ever been around.

He's got a three round and two ten round mags. for it.


I keep telling that he needs to put it in a safe somewhere, because it's value goes up every year, but he just keeps pluggin' whitetails with it.

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