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The Dave's Metal Works oversized safety is the one I prefer the best. The TTI one is alright and feels similar. I didn't care for the Roth one at all. It was way too big. Keeping your finger off the trigger is certainly the most important thing. However, I use the safety when chambered and slung in the field. Murphy has a tendency to sneak up on you and cause some fluke thing to occur where a buckle for a pack gets into the trigger guard, leaning the rifle/shotgun against a tree/rocks and it dumps over and somehow something ends up pressing the trigger. Reaching for the gun in the dark and your fingers end up in the trigger guard is a huge issue. Add the adrenaline of a hunt or a bump in the night and peoples fine motor skills go to crap. Plenty of injured and dead hunters can attest to that happening. I guess the dead ones can't attest to much. Bumps in the night in the field are pretty common. In your mind its either a Skinwalker or a racoon. Even for a handgun, I'll keep the pistol in its holster to prevent any fumbled fingers getting into the trigger guard in the dark. Be it on my night stand or tent/pack/truck camping.

From a legality standpoint that model can be used for duck hunting (as long as the magazine is plugged so the gun hold no more than 3 shells total). From a performance standpoint the GR sights, short barrel and lack of choke constriction will severely limit its usability for what most hunters consider an ideal duck gun.

Same issue here with two different Benelli shotguns I purchased. Same issue on different computers at different locations.

Sounds like those shells don't have enough dram to cycle properly. Does the problem occur with other heavier rounds? The firearm looks to be relatively new based on the minimal wear pattern around the ejection port. One test you can do is to have someone film the action with a modern cellphone that does slow motion. This will let you see what the bolt carrier is doing during the recoil cycle. You're looking to see if the bolt carrier is traveling all the way to the rear or short stroking, which appears to be what is occurring. Obviously having a clean system with a good lubricant is important. If the action is struggling to overcome friction or fouling, it's wasting that energy trying to do that rather than cycling fully. On lower dram shells, this can be important since you're riding the edge of functionality. Shooting stance and bracing can help. I don't know your shooting skill level, but many people struggle with bracing a 12 gauge properly. They allow their shoulder to roll during recoil which robs the action of energy. You want to be providing a solid base for the buttpad to recoil against. Some guys dedicate shotguns to shooting lower dram loads will install reduced power main springs to permit it to cycle. You'd want to avoid putting full power loads into a gun modified like that. Lighter main springs also provide less energy for cycling the bolt carrier back forward, so they are more prone to hanging up and jamming since sometimes shells need motivation to get chambered, particularly as the gun gets dirtier.

Slugs and buck. 1250fps or greater “they” say. Make sure you clean and lube the new gun before you shoot it.