bambihunter
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Posts posted by bambihunter
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You might also look at the SBE II barrels.
But, if you are not already familiar, there is a difference between the SBE1 and SBE II barrels. The SBE II barrel uses the newer Crio Chokes which have a different thread depth location. The SBE 1 choke threads are at the very tip of the barrel whereas later Benelli's including SBE II have the threads ~3/4: down into the barrel. They are not interchangeable. The II also have a longer recoil lug under the barrel by the ring. If you put a SBEII barrel on a SBE, you'll have to Dremel out the forearm a bit to make it fit or modified forearm can be purchased. Or, if you have a factory SBE 1 slug gun, those already have the modified forearm. The big thing is that they have a higher, more angled vent rib. If you just move to it, then it isn't an issue as you'll adjust to it, or change the shims to make it fit. But, if you intend to go back and forth, it will throw you off every time you switch between them. If you do go the SBEII route, I can link a previous post with pictures of how to modify the forearm.
I don't know if you are still in need of one, but you might try Gunbroker.com. They still show up on there from time to time. I bought one of the HK SBE's and all the barrels as well as the modified forearm shown in the pic below on there. If you look close at the pictures, you can see the difference in the lugs and rib height. I also edited a 2nd picture to point out those differences.
You can find one on Armslist occasionally as well as GunBroker if you are patient. In fact, if you have an account, I did the steps for a search for "Benelli Super Black Eagle" in the shotgun barrels section:
https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli Super black eagle&Sort=13&PageSize=24And, just "Benelli SBE" in the shotgun barrels section::
https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli&PageSize=24&Sort=13&View=1&PageIndex=1Then, when there, log in (if not already), and then click "Save this Search". It will ask if you want to be notified of a listing. Check yes and now you'll get an email every time one comes up for sale. You may need to further edit the filter to suit your needs.
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The same issue that causes the click, often causes a similar issue of firing out of battery. There are several other causes for firing out of battery including the ammo itself, dirty bolt lug, log slots on the barrel, etc but I'd still start with the same steps starting with other ammo options. If I remember right, the click is caused from being further from the locked state and it results in the light, but variable primer strikes and therefore doesn't fire. This is the most common indicator/issue. The firing out of battery issue can be caused by the bolt being closer to the locked position than the click, but still not fully locked. This allows the firing pin to hit the primer hard enough to fire, but with the bolt not locked in place, it thrusts it rearward while there is still pressure in the barrel.
If you're comfortable tearing the SBE down a bit, I'd start with what I mentioned in the post above. First and foremost check the area around where the lugs on the bolt rotate into the barrel. If they are dirty, I use those plastic picks available from most gun stores and also from Harbor Freight.
But, if those are nice and clean, remove the barrel and bolt. Then, remove the buttstock and recoil spring and give the recoil tube and spring a very thorough cleaning. If any cleaning patches come out rusty, then use your preferred rust remover and keep cleaning until the cleaning patches come out completely clean. There are a gazillion posts and videos on the web for the steps to remove the stock and recoil spring.
If it was particularly dirty or you did find rust, then after cleaning it, use a DRY spray-in rust inhibitor/lubricant. I use Jet-Lube 13241 just because we used to use it at a manufacturing facility I used to work at. There are other decent ones out there too. But, always stick with dry lubricants only for both the magazine tube as well as the recoil tube. Wet lube will attract dust, unburnt powder, and during fall bird hunting, dried grasses and other debris. Not a pretty sight. I've made a lot of extra money over the years by buying guns from hunting buddies or friends of friends that were jam-o-matics. I'd give them a good cleaning of the mag and recoil tube, and they'd work great. Most of them had used a wet lube and got clogged up. Some ended up buying the gun back after they saw it working flawlessly again and I told them what was wrong.
If you already have the stainless tube model and/or it is very clean and no rust, then I'd consider replacing the recoil spring. They are inexpensive and many people also take the opportunity to put in a Wolff +25% spring while they are at it. That all but eliminates the related Benelli Click, but it can also cause lightweight (under an ounce) shells not to cycle the action properly. I have a +25% spring, but unless I will be firing 3.5" for an extended time, I generally just use the standard weight. I always use 1 1/8 oz loads in my HK SBE1 and it'll cycle perfectly, even with the Walmart el-cheapo ammo.
If these do not fix the issue, and after trying a few different ammo choices, then have a gunsmith take a look at it. Out of battery on a shotgun is not near as dangerous as it is on a rifle, but can still cause harm to you or your firearm.
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This is not my auction, nor am I affiliated with it in any way. I just know these don't come up for sale all that often and I've got two, that's enough. Anyway, the same seller has two separate listings (and I emailed and he confirmed there are two guns). Just thought someone might be interested. I think these are just as cool as the M4. The auctions end less than 5 days from this post.
The M3 functions better than the Franchi SPAS-12 and does not have a defective safety like it does... They look like real factory M3T's. If someone puts a folding stock on a non-folder, the rear sight won't capture the folding stock without modifications.
If someone on here ends up getting one or both, pics will be required. ?
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Here was the last real one that sold on Gunbroker: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/876253521 It went for $4,875.00
Mine was even more than that but it was absolutely NIB and never even had been transferred before.
If you use the GB auction site, create a saved search with 11711 with 11796 as an excluded word so you don't get a bunch of results. Then, check the notification box to let you know when one is available. I have bought many rare and obscure items this way. I think sellers are trying to confuse new M4 buyers listing the H2O 11711 heading with the 11796.
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Reported your own post. LOL I'll have to remember that in the future in case I say something I didn't mean to.
Oddly, sometimes you can click on the ellipsis (...) on the right side of your post and click edit. Other times, it doesn't allow me to. I don't know why...
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There's a ton of information on the web about the causes and fixes. To name a few, guiding the bolt closed like to do quietly to prepare for a shot. In this case, just let it slam home and it won't be an issue. You can simulate this, ease it down very slowly as described. It will look like it is locked. But, take note of the extractors position. Once eased in, then bump the charging handle forward. Many times on SBE1 and SBEII's, you'll see the bolt head rotate maybe 15 degrees or so which is into the locked breach position.
Another one is the recoil spring gets weak or the tube (if original) gets rusty, or even dirty. Then, if you are shooting high angle shots, especially with lighter loads, there might not be enough force to positively make it close. The fix for this is to first inspect your recoil tube and ensure it is clean and rust free. I highly recommend only using spray dry-lube for both it and the magazine tube. If you do get rust from it when cleaning, if it isn't bad you may be OK. If it is bad, I'd suggest swapping it with the stainless one or that aftermarket sureshot system. I do believe later SBEII guns started getting stainless tubes but I don't remember now. The last II I had was ~10 years ago. I still like my old 1995 HK SBE1 better.
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SD, since you are set up already, perhaps you could alter new ones and sell them on here as well. Could just cut the hole around the same size as the opening. Just a thought.
BTW, SD, do you have a website or anything? Even just a price and type of service list? -
I have loved Limbsaver pads for decade(s). They really do help. But, as they all hit ~15+ year mark, they turn to tar-like substance. They stuck to gun socks, carpet in the safe, etc. Between Remington and Limbsaver, they've probably replaced 40 for me now.
If you've not heard of it, google sticky Limbsaver and you'll find a ton of them. Whether that is still an issue? I don't know. Time will tell...
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On 10/11/2020 at 6:48 PM, RPC said:
I’m no expert in this space but I couldn’t be happier with my CC tube.
If you think it’s necessary, hit up Marcy (or Kip) here- -, in a past bout of back and forth comm Marcy was nothing short of amazing.
*Thank you Marcy if you’re watchingI am positive you mean well, but you may want to change or obscure a portion of the email address. Once the spam bots find it, he'll be flooded from here on. I'd do kip(at)xxxxxxxxxxxxx or something similar.
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In my experience, limp shouldering, or in my case not shouldering at all will always cause it to fire previous shell and not release the next shell at all leaving the bolt closed on an empty chamber. I was doing some testing with my M3T folder without using the shoulder at all. I could resist with my hands and never had a feed issue, but if I just let the gun fire like a pendulum, it would do as described above.
Still, I'd trust SD's knowledge over my anecdotal evidence.
*edit* Never mind, I just saw the M4 in the picture. Gas gun wouldn't likely have the same results as the inertia guns...
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Yes. Not for sale though...
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Be prepared to pay 5 grand for the 11711.
On 10/9/2020 at 2:07 PM, sykotik said:Ill have an 11701 h20 in CA in the next couple weeks brand new in box
The 11711 and the 11701 are only H2O in name only. The difference with the former being NP3 and the latter being Cerakote finish. The 11711 was also sold from the factory with all the full "naughty" options like functional collapsible stock, full length extended mag tub, etc. To build a configuration like this you'll have to get 922r parts to stay compliant. That said, it will still be much cheaper to build one out exactly the same as the 11711. Might as well, then one isn't putting wear and tear on a somewhat rare original.
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One main difference is the built in sling mount goes around the receiver extension so you know it isn't going to fail. QD mounts are usually solid, but I doubt one could match the others' strengths.
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On 9/30/2020 at 12:55 AM, geno0506 said:
Also I asked a question about the packaging, he said once they received it, they have to open the box and verify something, I forgot exactly what he said! Does that sound about right! He asked for my FFL, I gave him their number and he said it would be shipped today to the FFL!
Yes, that sounds right. The FFL's need to verify the serial number on the firearm itself. Sure, the number on the box usually matches but not 100% of the time.
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I have always thought the 922r law was thought up by one of the major aftermarket suppliers here in the USA. It has benefited them tremendously.
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If it is just for some range time with your M4, I'd just get some cheap factory type choke. If you are thinking of hunting with it, then consider a Tru-Lock or extended Carlson's. Maybe even a Black cloud.
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I've tried quite a few over the years Clack. What I started with, I have went full circle and I am back using. It is a spray on. I am fairly sure it is moly based. It is used by machinist for their machines. My brother-in-law used to swear by the stuff so he bought me a case of it. I'll have to dig it out.. I have also used the Otis spray in a pinch and I'd say it rates right up there.
I don't like any of them that resort to a loose powder after use. Some of the graphite based ones do this.
I will use wet lube to break in new guns or ones that I'll be shooting a lot in a short period of time then cleaning. After that, or ones like CCW or hunting guns that often don't get cleaned immediately or will likely sit where dust can ingress, I only use dry. For shotgun magazines - 100% ONLY dry lube. As I eluded to before, I have bought many guns from fellow waterfowlers that hated that SOB gun because it was a jam-o-matic. I've had several buy it back after they see how well it shoots with proper maintenance. The money I have made on just buying and selling Benelli's alone that just needed cleaned and lubed right has afforded me more Benelli's. ?
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Not sure. Perhaps decades ago only the high brass shells were loaded hot and that's where that started. I don't know. I just know on cheapo skeet loads, it went purely by weight for my SBE. All of my other Benelli's that are inertia shoot 7/8oz fine. I don't skeet shoot with my M4 as it is not built for that, or would it be easy to use for it.
Also, as far as lubing I personally use it sparingly and use only dry lube in the magazine and if it is going to be cold and/or dusty, I use it for everything. Nothing like getting up early, driving 45 minutes to get to my hunting spot. Break ice all the way out, set out decoys, birds finally in the air, and the oil has gelled up so I have an expensive single shot... True story and more than once...
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Not to disagree with Clack's recommendation. But, for what it's worth, back in the day I was always told to use high brass shells 1 1/8th oz load with my original HK SBE. I found the brass height itself not to make any difference. However, I had to shoot 1oz loads or heavier. With 7/8oz loads, it would fire, eject, then close on an empty chamber because the bolt wasn't pushed back far enough to trigger the mag release. Since I shoot 3.5" during waterfowling, I never went to reduced power spring that would have remedied those light weight shells.
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Good point. Though you didn't say, it sounds like you are after the "tactical" version of those. Here's a real nice M2 tactical. Less than 5 hours left: https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/879697530
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I guess that is one theory. It doesn't seem logical that ANY gun company would lobby for additional firearm laws. Most of these, once they go on the books, they don't come back off unfortunately.
Personally, I think it was due to the flood of Soviet Bloc weapons that entered the US around the time of the fall of the Berlin wall and ultimate collapse of the USSR. They were pouring into the US like crazy back then. You could buy an SKS for $75 and an AK for ~$175 IIRC. With the restriction of number of US parts required for the gun to have certain features, it stemmed the tide for a while.
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For some reason it won't let me edit my comment like usual...
M2's on Gunbroker: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search?Keywords=benelli m2&Sort=13&PageSize=24
M4's on Gunbroker: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search?Keywords=benelli m4&Sort=13&PageSize=24
Right now is certainly a "sellers market" and you'll pay a premium on top of the already premium price of these top of the line shotguns. It will stay high well past the elections. I'd think it will taper off some next spring as the follow-up panic buying eases. If you want something to shoot now, perhaps look at one of the "non-tactical" models as they are going cheaper than the rest. If you think you'll ever want to hunt with it, you might even consider a Super Black Eagle as it has a 3.5" chamber so it can shoot 2.75", 3", and 3.5" mags.
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The 14" M2 will take a lot of extra work to purchase. It would be what is referred to as a "short barreled shotgun" or SBS for short. Those require a NFA stamp, additional and more thorough background check, and a wait of 8+ months. This is the exact same process as would be needed for full-auto, short barreled rifle (SBR), cane guns, pen guns, etc. This is not the kind of experience I'd suggest for your first firearm.
You are on a Benelli forum, so you know which brand of firearms we are going to suggest for your first one. I would suggest a couple of things.
First, research if there are any restrictions in NY. I know there is in NYC, but don't know for the entire state. Next, I'd see if a local gun store has either in stock. At least you can pick them up and handle them. Ideally you'd want to shoot them to make sure the recoil and overall feel is right for you. Many states have various shooter forums where people can find and meet others with the same interests. If the local gun store doesn't have one, you might be able to try them this way.
Esthetics aside, the M2 and the M4 use different systems internally to cycle them. The M2 uses Benelli's famous Inertia system and the M4 uses a more conventional gas system. The gas system (comparing apples to apples) will be the softer recoiling of the two, but they do take more time to clean. The inertia guns have a shorter recoil pulse and some equate that to more recoil. This is negligible at 2.75" and in my opinion, a minor difference at 3" shell.
WANT TO BUY BENELLI H20 11711 NEW IN BOX
in Benelli
Posted
The 11794 isn't what he's after. Those are Cerakote whereas the 11711 are NP3. They were also quite rare due to their configuration that really shouldn't have been able to be sold to us mere mortals (civilians).