Coloradoryan

Well I guess I will start the big fight... There will be no noticable difference in your shot string or pattern from going from a 24 to a 28 inch barrel with the same choke. It used to be you needed more tube to burn all the shotshell powder, therefore back in the day a 24 inch barrel shot slower than a 28 inch barrel which effected things. That being said, there may be a PHYSICAL difference between the 24 inch barrel and the new 28 that might effect the pattern slightly, but the result is not from a length change; more likely different forcing cone lengths, and differences in the manufacturing process. ( My montefeltro and my beretta both with the same modified choke and 28 inch barrels shoot different patterns, the beretta was tighter) All things being equal your shotstring is effect by the velocity, forcing cone, and choke. Steel shoots a tighter pattern in both string length and pattern since it isn't deformed by the compression in the forcing cone or choke. Benelli claims that by crio treating their barrels that can get a little denser patterns ( 13%) due to predictable barrel harmonics, a slicker surface, and the extended crio chokes. ( I think it has more to do with the extendable choke than the crio treatment but thats just me) What you may find with the barrel length change is its easier to hit targets a little further away because of the increased sight plane of the 28" barrel... Do not confuse this possible increase in accuracy with a change in the shot string. Anyways, a lot of people may cry BS, especially those from the old school so expect to hear different opinions.. [ 06-10-2005, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: Coloradoryan ]

Yes, the Serial Number ( non- Kelloggs number )obviously shows you, but when you are in a duck blind with 5 guys and 5 guns where the light isn't the greatest, you might have a bit of a problem trying to read the serial number on a camo gun. I think Waylon is looking for a fast indicator so he can identify his gun quickly when all five guns might be leaning up together or somthing. Kinda like putting a peice of red tape on your luggage when you fly so that when your bag comes off the conveyer at your destination you dont have to sit there and read all the name tags.

While this ISN"T the one listed, I would imagine it's something similar. It just gives more surface area to the otherwise small bolt release button( easier to find when not looking, and easier to press with gloves on ). This model you have to actualy drill a hole in the button and then thread it for the set screw . Pretty easy to do, but some people might not have the ability to install it. The one listed in the post says no modifications. I have already asked for a picture of it and the buttplate kit they sell for the comfort tech stocks.

Ha, you know the Winchester X2 grenade launcher is faster!!!

1. You could switch to extended chokes. ( stands out fast, and can improve performance slightly) 2. You could change out the fiber front sight to a differen't color/larger diameter, but the factory one is pretty nice though. 3. If you are shooting with a sling, a custom sling or if you have the sling off you could put something like an inch piece of white string tied through the sling mount ( just so you could identify it fast ) 4. Even a small red sticker under the butt pad, or on the bottom of the stock. ( for after shooting to identify its yours) Most of these would work for quick identification purposes. But if you are looking more to accessorize than just to identify.. this is the wrong list. There are a variety of sights availalbe in differen't colors and diameters. You can get a chrome bolt handle cheap enough from brownels. They even sell a chrome trigger ( but it would have to be installed ) Being that it is a camo hunting gun, most accessories I can think of like a speedloader assist bracket and stuff like that just wouldn't look very good on it. There are a variety of custom finishes and various platings that could make it look really trick but that defeats the camo thing. You can also buy a home plating kit like a plug-n-plate for like $30-35 bucks and plate some small parts your self in nickle, gold, copper, black chrome, etc.. Also, in another post in this forum there is mention of a button clip that makes it easier to close the action for like $15 with no gun alterations ( says its easier for gloves, might be right up your alley )

The grass is always greener on the other side..... If the gun is really kicking you that hard, and your shoulder is giving too much it will slow down the cycling a little bit due to timing of the inertia system. Your SBE I am sure proably had a much stiffer recoil spring to handle loading the 3 1/2 rounds which probably closed the bolt a little faster also. Speaking of which did you ever clean the tube that houses the recoil spring in the stock, all guns when they come from the factory have a heavy lube/ rust preventitive on them everywhere so they can sit in storage till sold ( of course Benellis dont sit on a shelf long before they sell ). If your spring tube has any of this crap in it, the friction slows the spring movement by quite a bit. Dissassemble it and remove the spring and plunger and run some cleaner and cleaning patches through it till they come out perfectly clean, then clean the spring and plunger assembly throughly ( dont half a$$ it ). Next take some super light oil like benelli oil and rub a little on the plunger side walls and stick it back in. Get your hand a little oily and handle the spring till it has a real light coat on it and put it back in and reasemble the stock. Any friction in the recoil spring assembly, guide rails etc.. will slow down the gun as will too much oil, or too heavy of oil. As far as the recoil.. That was nearly 10 years ago man! Your an old man now and the recoil is reminding you of that . Get out there and shoot that bad boy and your shoulder will toughen up, if it doesn't.. another good thing about a Benelli is it doesn't lose much in resale value! As for the X2.. I shoot the Super Sport mostly which weighs in at 7.3 pounds, to shoot a comparable Winchester X2 model it weighs 8 pounds 4 onces So I am afraid THAT gun would only SLOOOOOW me down... [ 06-09-2005, 01:27 PM: Message edited by: Coloradoryan ]

Thats not the sale price, they are that much all year long! ( $15.22 I believe :0) ) Who hates Walmart, they need to be slapped!! Anyways, I will admit it, I shoot the crap out of those because they are so cheap and I have never had a single jam, or missfire with them. I have shot many thousands of them without any problems. A friend and I shot up 700 of them last weekend through his beretta 390 and my benelli super sport. ( Practicing up for an event ) I buy the good stuff for hunting, but for busting up clays they seem to work great for us even out at the longer 50-60 yard shots.

I have a couple of friends who use them for hunting pheasant, duck, and goose and love them. I saw that you said your 870 rusts on you ( and that you are from California ) but you didn't say where it was rusting up ( outside or action ). Since the Nova encases the reciever in a one peice polymer design this will prevent any external rusting of the receiver or water seeping in between the stock and action. To be honest I don't know if the barrel of the Nova ( on the Black Model ) is a matte blued finish, or if it is a spray and bake like KGI Gunkote or something similar. ( all my friends have the camo versions) Some of the other members like tucker or Benelli Girl would more than likely know. The camo finishes provide a waterproof finish to the barrel due to the coating they get before they do the film dip trasfer process of the camo pattern. Since you are in California, you are probably going to have to take a little better care of any gun that you buy since you may be exposed to higher salt content and humidity levels. You may find that when your shotgun is not going to be used for a while you need to clean it very well ( including the trigger assebly), and keep the action pieces and inside of the barrel well oiled. (remove the excess oil before you go shoot it, by running a couple dry patches through the barrel, and blowing out the action peices with an aircompressor and wiping them off afterwords ). Hope that helps some....

Thats correct, only cast on, and cast off with the factory shim set. I guess you could "improvise" and add a little more wedge... A good shotgun fitter should be able to tune any additional cast if you need it. They employ a highly technical process of bending stuff...

Its very easy, pop the recoil pad off and this exposes the only nut required to make any changes to cast or drop. To adjust drop remove the nut completly and slide the stock off and swap out the front shims you want for drop, these are indexed with letters like C, A, B Z indicating what degree of drop( cross refrenced in your supersport manual on page 84. As far as adjusting cast, the back spacers are indexed with an SX and or a DX. SX meaning cast on for lefties and DX meaning Cast off for right hand shooters. I am assuming it is the rear spacer that is confusing you. Which ever impression ( SX or DX )is twords the top of the stock when installed inticates the cast status. For example If you have spacer lettered C ( 60 degrees) in the front and you want Cast off simply align the rear spacer so that C DX is on top ( twords the top of the stock where you can read it )and tighten down the nut. If you want cast on, filp it over where C SX is twords the top and tighten down the nut. Each rear spacer has 4 differn't settings ( two letters indicating the drop amount, and the option to have those letters in a DX or SX configuration.) Be sure to match both spacer letters. Meaning what ever spacer you have in the front ( A,B,C,Z) make sure the spacer in the back matches that letter also. Like I said, with the but pad off looking at the spacer,you can read from left to right on top of the spacer what the current configuration is. ryan Oh and I forgot to add, that on the front spacer ( receiver side) there is actually two spacers one for drop indicated be a single letter( the A,B,C thing) and another one that simple says SX or DX ( its reversible and you just flip it over for one or the other) make sure that when you put your front spacer in that you put that front cast spacer in the correct position also ryan [ 05-31-2005, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: Coloradoryan ]

Yeah the X2 and the browning gold ( built on the same platform) are both faster and benelli should drop the speed claim so we can stop poking them with a stick about it. Of course to push even the limits of the Benelli action you are going to have to break 15-16 pigeons in 2 seconds to overcome its cycle limitation of aprox .13 seconds. I guess once I get that good I will dump the benelli and switch over to the x2 also. ;0)

Sdkididaho, here is one guys humble opinion. First, steel shot sucks… However lead shot is banned in most states when hunting duck or geese ( lead poisoning of the water). Steel shot is faster out of the barrel; but it looses inertia faster and doesn’t have the knock down power of lead at further distances since steel is less dense then lead. ( This is based on the same shot size when comparing steel vs lead. ) I blasted several pheasants out of the air with #6 steel shot and watched them get back up and fly away again laughing at me. ( apparently pheasants in eastern Colorado are bullet proof ) anyways, I switched to lead and the problem has been aliviated! To be fair I don’t hunt with dogs, so my shots are a little further than most pheasant hunters. Couple things you need to know about steel shot, that you might not know that are IMPORTANT. To get the equivilant shot power out of steel vs lead reduce the shot size number by two. For example if you are hunting with 6 shot in lead, if you switch to steel you need to shoot 4 shot in steel to produce the same result as a 6 shot in lead. Steel shot shoots tighter by aprox one choke size since steel pellets don’t deform like lead does. This means that shooting lead through a modified choke = modified pattern. If you shoot steel through a modified choke it is actually a full choke. ( just always add one choke size when using steel ). IC=M, etc.. Most owners manuals will tell you not to shoot steel through a full because it will over choke and blow the pattern apart. I hunt upland game with an emphasis on pheasant, very little duck or goose and Turkey on occasion. For Pheasant I use #5 in lead with Modified when the birds are skiddish and jumping far away, and I swap to IC when they make you step on them to get them to jump. When forced to use steel because I was to lazy to buy ammo early and now all the lead is gone, I will use #4 steel through an IC. Doves, I go with lead and will very #7 to #8 depending on the manufacturer of the ammo I choke to suit the situation All through a benelli, and all 12 gauge ( Supersport or montefeltro depending on mood).

Turkey, im not sure if you are asking if porting a Benelli will make it shoot softer like a gas gun, or if porting a Benelli has similar overall effects as porting a gas recoil gun. Either way here is some info on porting a shotgun, they may or may not be useful to you. First, the primary reason for porting a shotgun is usually to control muzzle rise for faster recovery between shots when shooting at multiple targets and not to reduce recoil; although some felt recoil is reduced due to the lower gas pressure. ( This is typical of guns designed for clays ). Second, porting a semi auto is much different from porting a pump, or an over under gun. On a gas operated gun there is a certain amount of gas pressure required to cycle the action. Porting, backboring, lengthening the forcing cones, overboring, and even cutting down the barrel length can drastically effect the reliability of the cycling as all these things actually reduce gas pressure. Imagine a high pressure water pipe with water shooting out of the end, if you poke holes in the hose, you are reducing the pressure of the water coming out the end. If you enlarge the hose on the inside, the water pressure also drops. You can end up with a gun that short cycles the action. A Benelli ( non-argo system ) does not use gas pressure quite the same way. Benelli’s use gas pressure to simply drive the gun back into your shoulder at a certain velocity, the velocity of the gun carefully interacts with the mass of the bolt carrier to cycle the action when resistance is met ( your shoulder ). My point is that if you upset the balance randomly, the Benelli can have cycling problems also. Guns like the Supersport had the internal barrel dimensions matched to accomedate the porting from the factory to operate reliably. There are other downfalls to porting also. It’s much louder You lose 50-150 FPS in velocity It’s dirtier. Moral of my lengthy story, is don’t aftermarket port or modify a semi-auto shotgun barrel unless you have the specific need to do so. If you do decide to modify it, send it to a pro, just because Brownells sells a barrel jig for $57 doesn’t mean all you need to do is clamp it on and start drilling. It can be done but other considerations may need to be addressed such as opening the gas ports to offset the reduction in pressure, or some springs may need to be changed also.... If you were asking if porting your Benelli will make it shoot as soft as some gas guns like a Beretta 390, or 391 it won’t. In fact nothing can be done to make a Benelli intertia gun recoil quite as soft as those guns are capable of. ( Although my super sport comes pretty darn close ) That’s not me talking smack, its simple physics in the designs. ( both have advantages and disadvantages ) I like Benellis for entirely different reasons, ( quality, simplicity, fewer parts to wear out, looks, easier to clean throughly, and much better balance compared to many other semi autos ). Ok, i gota quit talking now... before I start getting hate mail! Take care turkey! [ 06-06-2005, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: Coloradoryan ]

Hey Guy, what custom aluminum adapter are you refering too? Is it a new Graco product? Also, here is a link to a site that may have your GEL pad in stock for your SBE2. http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=4150zSUPER%20BLACK%20EAGLE%20II&MC=

Just ordered a new super sport and am wondering if there are other barrels that will fit. Seems the specs should be similar. I would like to have a nice non-ported barrel that doesn't involve using a hacksaw. Thanks! [ 05-09-2005, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Coloradoryan ]