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NJgunner

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Posts posted by NJgunner

  1. I have a M2 which I keep for home defense.

    I would like to keep it with the hammer down on an empty chamber and the magazine full .

    I have not been able to do so however, because the magazine can only be loaded with the hammer cocked. I have triedcocking it on an empty chamber, loading the mag. , then releasing the hammer on the empty chamber , but when i do this and try to rack a round into the chamber, the shell will not load .

    Am I doing something wrong? , is there a problem with the gun ? Is there any way to the gun work as desired ?

     

    What does it matter if the hammer is cocked or not if your leaving the chamber empty? Besides for your homedense your weapon should be fully loaded ready to go! You never know if you will forget to load a round into the chamber, besides that makes alot of noise, if someones into your house you want the element of surprise if you plan on using your weapon against them....better have a light on that shotgun too

  2. Where i hunt white tail, a 50 yard shot is almost out of the question. There are hardly any spots to be able to shoot that far.

     

    I heard Brenneke makes good slugs, thinking about trying those.

     

    If your that close I would just use 00 buckshot on a full choke. What area you from?

  3. I just blasted my tube with it and shook it around and let it drain and and accepted that it was gonna splatter and leak for a bit. I gun-scrubbered it out first though, wanted to get all the packing grease out first.

     

    Maybe that was the issue I still had packing grease in it. I broke it in with alot of buckshot and never had problems but i put a few hundred rounds through the gun and started having problems pheasant hunting. I beleive all the jams were when shootin in the air hence the gravity issue with the bolt. I never knew to lubrication that part though so maybe it just got dry. Ill let you guys know how I make out with these low brass 1oz loads hopefully sunday. Thank you all for your help

  4. Use a heavier load. Putting a heavier spring in that weapon will just make things worse. If anything, put a reduced spring in it for firing weak loads. I would leave it alone and modify your ammunition choice.

     

    Ok im gonna try it now that its lubed up better. Do you think depressing plunger with a screwdriver and spraying it out then using a 20gauge cotton swab to make dry and putting about 6 dropsof clp around the tube is sufficient lube?

  5. What does your ejection pattern look like when you shoot the pheasant rounds and it DOES eject? (Distance/O'clock angle from the port)?

     

    The shell doesnt eject and it would get stuck sticking out sideways in the gun. I sprayed cleaner with the plunger depressed and then used a 20 gauge cotton swab to clean recoil tube i then put about 6 drops of clp around the tube and worked up and down with the screwdriver...I may take it apart completely and clean it all out although i shouldnt really have to its only been through one hunting season...after benelli told me to oil it more pheasant season was over but buckshot fired fine in it.

  6. I've been using Wolff springs for many years.

     

    All my Benellis have fed whatever I give them, factory springs or Wolff springs, so I can't really say if the Wolff springs are 'better'.

     

    I buy the Wolff springs just because I heard they were good. They seem to work fine.

     

    U have a SBII?

  7. I have a SBII that went through one hunting seasons. I broke it in right but pheasant hunting with high brass I had some problems with jamming and not fully ejecting only the first round. Benelli said to oil the recoil spring tube but by then pheasant was over. No problems shooting buckshot. Has anyone replaced their spring with the 25% extra power spring from WOLF?Is this better than stock and can I still shoot low brass?

  8. No need to switch out due to springs...springs get worn from expanding and contracting constantly, think of a car that sits there for years its fine. If your used to handling shotguns you should be familiar with the safety in other words if your going to remember to cock the bolt you should be able to remember about the safety. You could just leave safety off, you could always get a glock .45 or XD then u dont have to worry about that problem =) or actually now that i see it, go back to your 220...gotta use what your comfortable with, I hunt with a shotgun so im constantly aware of safety and have never failed to disengage it in the field while trying to fire at game. hope this helps

  9. I see no reason to ever use anything but a full or tighter choke. The shot pattern on a shotgun is already incredibly wide compared to a rifle, I don't see why anyone would want to make it even wider. As I see it, all a loose choke does is decrease the effective range of your weapon, and make it so you have to aim even less. It can be said that a loose choke lets you hit more targets at once, say birds, if they are right above you, but hey that's what 7+1+1 is for (just kidding I know you can only use so many rounds blah blah blah). :)

     

    Lots of people will disagree with me I'm sure, but I've never used anything other than a full choke in my 10k rounds and I don't see why I ever would. I never use steel shot.

     

    Oh, and anyone who says you can't fire slugs through a full choke, or that doing so will damage your barrel/threads, has never tried it. I don't shoot many slugs ... I've probably put 300 or so through my m4 with full choke, but my threads look and feel like new.

     

    Shoot a pheasant at 20 yards with improved and then full. Improved will have a better pattern and at full choke 20 yards you wont have much left of the bird.

  10. So far... my M4 has only hit the shooting range. But I'm interested in hunting deer and various birds with it. Any advice on choke tubes?

     

    I have an SBII that I use for skeet, deer and pheasant. For pheasant I use improved because most of your shots are close. Ill switch to modified if its raining and birds are more likely to be running and shots are taken at further distance. For deer strictly full choke, you need to be able to hit 55yards! Hope this helps, I didnt know m4's had interchangable chokes because the website says "C". Also that is an 18" barell right? 24 or 26 would be ideal, I would pattern it depending on what you use. Hope this helps

  11. I wouldnt listen to that guy, have a gunsmith check it out if benelli cant help you...make sure its properly cleaned and lubricated then goto gunsmith....its a firearm you just dont go filing away at things

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