Unobtanium

You do realize that Benelli hand-fits their FCG's in some cases, yes? That said, the clearances DO exist for a reason, as SD has stated. This is why I have stuck with the ORIGINAL plan...OEM aluminum TG. My cousin, an old drag-racer/dirt-track racer, and mechanic (He was running low 11's at 120+ in the 70's...with pictures and time-slips to prove it that I've seen.) told me one time of Chrysler getting ahold of a Mercedes transmission "back in the day". They reverse engineered it, and made their own. Removing a lot of "tolerance slop" and using coatings on the parts and in general, making it super awesome! Well, the damn thing wouldn't even shift when they put it in a vehicle. Not all slop is bad slop. Benelli pushed the M1014 through some pretty damn intense testing at Picitinny, and I am loath to depart from their formula on critical parts. Safety buttons are not critical to function as long as they work. The weapon can even be fired without one, just no safety option. Things like shell lifters, and tolerances within the trigger pack, ARE critical things. I have opted to go OEM original, here. ...and yes, OEM original DOES have resistance to cocking the hammer with the safety on, and Benelli does touch upon it during their armorer courses, or at least, used to.

Lightly used M300C scout light (300 lumen) mounted on IWC Benelli M4 mount (mounted on the left side from shooter's view). Less than 1 battery's run-time, no flaws or idiocy, original Scout mount not included. $250 shipped CONUS.

Can be. I had an FFT trigger group that wouldn't even release the hammer a few years ago.

H&M can probably do a qpq finish cheaper and faster than np3.

Glock has cease and decists sent to some aftermarket companies for calling parts for a glock, "glock parts" for example, "glock 19 trigger" needed to be labeled "trigger for glock 19". Companies are very protective like that. Aside from that you should be fine.

What is the weight of the oem aluminum spacer?

I guess the OEM is a problem then, too, because every M4 with a metal trigger guard I've had recently has done it. Benelli teaches this in their armorer course.

Polymer offers a bit of flex, and a bit is all you need.

Is one metal and the other polymer?

Cocking the weapon with the safety on is physically difficult and not recommended.

This is normal. I have now had 3 OEM benelli metal trigger guards in the last month. ALL 3 behave as you say in your OP. Further Benelli addresses this in their armorer course, based on older posts on this forum.

Yes, but it does it with a lot of unnecessary background noise which opens the pistons to debris, exposes the hands to vented gasses, and in general is very elaborate compared to simply making a set of improved HG's with an MLOK slot at 11 and 1 that are of quality polymer with a grippy texture, etc. for $65/set.

I purchased this item. Jerhelo had excellent coms, and shipped the item quickly. It was as described. I would not hesitate to buy other items in the future from this seller.

Not bad, really. I would have liked to see "wings" at 11 and 1 though, that would allow hardmounting of a Scout or similar. The M1014's handguard is SHORT, and some people will want to push the light out there. Where do the set-screws interface? The barrel-hanger, or the barrel proper? Are they front only, or rear also?

Exactly. It's not sexy as Ti, but it IS MORE functional. It is also lighter, and the off-axis weight of the CH during cycling will be even less. Beretta's 1301 Tactical Charging handle is a very good profile. Many 3-gunners use a similar profile to it from aftermarket companies, as well, such as Briley, etc. It also eliminates the issues of machining and sourcing quality grade 5 or 7 Ti, lowers cost, streamlines production, and so forth. It's honestly the technically best solution that only neglects "But it's not Ti" type mentalities.

Clone the oem shank out of 4140, heat treat it and phosphate it, but right after the shank leaves the carrier, profile it to have and retain a polymer handle moulded to it. Use whatever polymer is good for the process and durable and pick a good shape and dimension. The weight will be minimal, mass production possible, price low, durability and structural integrity should be great.

Here is the view from my bedroom windows (got a downed tree and some other stuff to burn. Beer and hotdogs!):

I did. I bought it before I bought my house, which I was not planning to buy. I foresaw myself having more land than I do (6.15 acres), and 2-400 yard shots possible. That said, I now have a maximum range of 95 yards on my property. I chose to buy a house by the river instead of going with a larger plot. Naturally, the land by the river (bass fishing, kayak-able, year-round spring fed) commanded a premium over "just land", and so I ended up with less. It led to me creating Project M1014...again, but I was not satisfied with that. It's just not "special" enough for me, and I've winnowed things down pretty much to "special" guns, such as my Hodge Defense MOD 2, my Gray Guns custom P226 that Torie and Bruce built for me, and so the M1014 got the axe, too...but that Aimpoint and that M300 scout on a shotgun...that was video-game fun/effective! So, I have another project in the works. I will unveil it when it's finished. In the mean time, here's a picture of the house I bought taken from about 1/3 of the way into the front (back?) lawn. Included is a satellite image for reference. It was perfect for me. 1600sf, Well water, hardwood downstairs, carpet upstairs, vaulted 18ft ceilings, construction 2006, screened in porch, neighbors not too close, very rural, yet 35 min from work, right on the river (see satellite), and 10mb/s uncapped internet (nothing impressive, but for where it is!?), and a large detatched garage with concrete foundation, electric door, etc. I pretty much had to buy it, but again, it relegated the SR25 to the..."but what for?" pile, especially as there are no ranges within hours of me that are beyond 100 yards.

I had an SR25 upper for sale for the last week or so. I had dropped down to $1375. Then I said...screw this, and bumped the price UP to $1475. yesterday I got a rather committed buyer, and another guy pissed that he wasn't first, and claiming seconds if the first falls through, at $1475. That shotgun is just looking for a buyer, same as the SR25 lower was. Price won't matter as much as buyer. Bump it back up to what you had it listed at and get a few hundred more. It's worth it. Just need the right buyer, because the WRONG buyer won't even take it for $1450 shipped, and the right one will for $1850 without blinking.

Nah, man, stop that. Hold firm on your price, and you will get it. It was not out of line.

I keep feeling like everyone misses the boat with M1014/M4 handguards because they try too hard. What do we want? Something that plops down in place of the OEM's and allows us to mount a light, ambi. You know what I would do, were I King for a day? I'd make a handguard that was identical to OEM in shape, and material, except the texture of the currently "ribbed" area (haha...) would be the same texture as the S&P M&P2.0 grip area, and the very end at 11 and 1 O-clock would have a metal-backed MLOK slot, and be "flared" so as to be able to mount a light with a 1.4" or smaller bezel without contacting the barrel. The MLOK slot would be accessed from the back, with the handguards removed from the shotgun, as an admin task. It would accept Magpul MLOK accessories found here: https://www.magpul.com/mlok People could bolt whatever light, and however they wanted that light, on-to said handguard. I would supply also custom fasteners/backers made of metal to interface with the metal insert of the back of the MLOK in a solid fashion, as a way to hard-mount Surefire and Streamlight Scout lights, and that dimension is what I would base the 1.4" or smaller bezel off of. At 1.4", the bezel of a Scout IB light would clear. Any other hardware (forward extensions, 1913 section, etc.) would create further stand-off for those who had other plans. It would be so simple. So easy. So damn un-complicated to do this. To stop trying to make it look like a cheese-grater. To stop trying to figure out how to put a VFG on it. To stop all of this **** that noone asked for...and simply make OEM quality and interface handguards with a simple parallel flare at the muzzle end on either side, with an MLOK slot and embedded stainless plate. But no. NOONE wants to do this. They all want set-screws, and "remove 2 bolts to take it apart for cleaning the SG" and all this other stuff. I wish I had the time, capital, and machinery to do what I just said above. I'd create an entire empire out of 1 product. Then I'd adapt it to the 1301, M1, M2, etc. Ever notice how a company that does only ONE THING, but does it flawlessly and in a "less is more" way, somehow always ends up as an empire? Geissele made a trigger. LaRue made a mount. So on. I'm sorry for the rant, but it seems things keep getting more and more complex with these handguards, reaching their ultimate zenith with the B&T and the like.

I like how you cup it in your hand.

But still no pictures

I'll be in for 1 or 2 if it happens.