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Planetcat

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Planetcat last won the day on October 30 2019

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About Planetcat

  • Birthday 08/15/1969

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  1. I have a 15 year old one in .30-06 and .300 wm (blued/wood) and a newer one in .338 wm with comfortech stock and black finish. I would say with the right ammo, they all shoot MOA on a lead sled. I shoot non-lead ammo and I've found that most ammo shoots well out of them except Hornady gmx. 165 or 180 grain in the .30 cals and 210 or above in the .338. For range ammo, Federal blue box soft points are very accurate. For hunting, Federal trophy copper works great.
  2. I had a gunsmith cut the barrel down on my .300 Wm R1 from 24" to 20", threaded, and added a muzzle brake with no adverse accuracy issues, just loss of exit velocity. I use it for deep woods bear hunting. It was a blued crio barrel and came out pretty good. I would def have a gunsmith professionally cut and crown the barrel though. A properly machined crown is important for accuracy.
  3. Nice write up. Thanks for sharing your project! Looks good.
  4. I had this happen to my browning shotgun (very common). I removed the stock and forearm, sprayed it with krylon clear matte, and put it in the oven for 30 minutes at 250*. Like new and never got sticky again. A bit radical, I know, but used replacement stocks were cheap and a plenty, so if it failed, I could easily replace it.
  5. I use the Warne maxima split rings on both the benelli rail and a Warne/Browning rail on my .338 R1. When I mount the scopes on them, I tap the butt of the rifle on the floor with the rings at about 5-8 in lbs, then torque to recommended setting. This seats them against the rail slot, and they’ve never moved even on the .338 wm.
  6. Planetcat

    Early day R1

    I have the 20” and 22” barrels for my 15 year old R1. They are both very accurate! I’ve successfully gotten quite a few hogs and deer with the 20”. If you go to the benelli website and shop, they have 20” barrels for the .30-06 and .300 win mag for sale. My recent post with a November hog I got was with the 22” .30-06. 150 yards or so, one shot 180 grain trophy copper ammo.
  7. I don’t have wsm’s, but in my .30-06, .300wm, and .338wm R1’s, I have feeding issues if I don’t push the rounds all the way back in the mag so the bottom is flush with the magazine.
  8. Shot this sow last weekend with my R1 in .30-06. One shot at about 150 yards did the trick. Federal trophy copper 180 grain. Thought I’d share…
  9. My .30-06 R1 is very old, 20" barrel and shoots 165 and 180's really well (1" group max). Federal blue box soft points, Hornady Interlocks shoot the best in 165 or 180 gr. I hunt with copper, and get decent groups with Barnes TTSX and Federal Trophy Copper too. The rifle is not terribly finicky with ammo, but there are definitely ammo's it doesn't like. I found that 150 gr. shoot terrible, no matter what brand. I also have .300wm and .338 R1's and they're all pretty consistent with the .30-06.
  10. Congrats on your purchase. You’ll enjoy that rifle. I bought an R1 .338 win mag in 2019. I’ve hunted with it quite a bit, shot a couple hundred rounds at the range, and clobbered a nice hog with it. They run great, but you need to clean it after shooting and shoot clean, quality ammo out of it. It’s not like an old bolt action you can just let it sit and rust and it’ll still shoot. As an aside, my 15 year old R1 in .30-06 is the most accurate rifle I own. It’s been soaked in rain, dropped in mud, and has over 1,000 shots through it. I would carry that rifle in any situation.
  11. My .300wm and .30-06 prefer heavier bullets, lead ones like fusion, soft points, interbond, etc. in 165 or 180 grains. The copper and Hornady gmx, not as good in any weight. Federal blue box soft points shoot the best in every rifle I own (8 or so).
  12. If you’re positive that the barrel is locked all the way down on the receiver, I would check the overall length of the cartridge and make sure it’s within standard specs. I’ve heard of this happening with 200 grain bullets in .30 caliber cartridges on other rifles. I interchange between .30-06 and .300wm without issue, but typically shoot 165 or 180 grain factory ammo. Now, you said “an older R1”, so it’s very possible the recoil plunger spring is wearing out. My wooden R1 is about 15 years old and I replaced the plunger assembly about 5 years ago after failures to feed with the .30-06. But I’d think it would affect your .308 too. The .308 is very short compared to the .300 though. I’m assuming you’re using .300 wm magazines, since the rounds probably wouldn’t even fit in .308 mags. That’s all I got. ?
  13. If your budget is around $700 and you want a new caliber to shoot, get the barrel. The barrels work great for switching calibers, and if they’re both scoped and sighted in, they will both be at zero when you install it. I just put my .300wm barrel back on. Now I have to go to the range to sight it in. If I had had a scope on it, the zero with the .30-06 barrel would have been very close on the .300. Were it not for an ammo shortage, price gouging, and a big inconvenience for me to go to the range, I’d get more barrels. It's also worth noting that the wood model barrels fit fine on the comfortech stocks. I find myself looking at BAR’s more over the R1. I have a bar shortrac in .308 and it’s a fantastic rifle, very accurate. I do like the new Lupo bolt gun too.
  14. I asked them a couple of years ago and they said they had no plans to. So I ended up just buying the whole rifle. Nice shooter and very accurate. Also, I have a .30-06 and .300 wm barrel for my wooden model but only keep the .30-06 on and haven't shot the .300 in years. I don't like to go to the range to resight it in, but admittedly when I used to swap out the barrels, both zeroed at the same point.
  15. You have to pull out the bolt throw. Just wiggle it while pulling on it and it will come out. Then the bolt won’t be blocked from sliding out the back of the barrel.
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