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Planetcat

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Everything posted by Planetcat

  1. I have a 15 year old one in .30-06 and .300 wm (blued/wood) and a newer one in .338 wm with comfortech stock and black finish. I would say with the right ammo, they all shoot MOA on a lead sled. I shoot non-lead ammo and I've found that most ammo shoots well out of them except Hornady gmx. 165 or 180 grain in the .30 cals and 210 or above in the .338. For range ammo, Federal blue box soft points are very accurate. For hunting, Federal trophy copper works great.
  2. I had a gunsmith cut the barrel down on my .300 Wm R1 from 24" to 20", threaded, and added a muzzle brake with no adverse accuracy issues, just loss of exit velocity. I use it for deep woods bear hunting. It was a blued crio barrel and came out pretty good. I would def have a gunsmith professionally cut and crown the barrel though. A properly machined crown is important for accuracy.
  3. Nice write up. Thanks for sharing your project! Looks good.
  4. I had this happen to my browning shotgun (very common). I removed the stock and forearm, sprayed it with krylon clear matte, and put it in the oven for 30 minutes at 250*. Like new and never got sticky again. A bit radical, I know, but used replacement stocks were cheap and a plenty, so if it failed, I could easily replace it.
  5. I use the Warne maxima split rings on both the benelli rail and a Warne/Browning rail on my .338 R1. When I mount the scopes on them, I tap the butt of the rifle on the floor with the rings at about 5-8 in lbs, then torque to recommended setting. This seats them against the rail slot, and they’ve never moved even on the .338 wm.
  6. Planetcat

    Early day R1

    I have the 20” and 22” barrels for my 15 year old R1. They are both very accurate! I’ve successfully gotten quite a few hogs and deer with the 20”. If you go to the benelli website and shop, they have 20” barrels for the .30-06 and .300 win mag for sale. My recent post with a November hog I got was with the 22” .30-06. 150 yards or so, one shot 180 grain trophy copper ammo.
  7. I don’t have wsm’s, but in my .30-06, .300wm, and .338wm R1’s, I have feeding issues if I don’t push the rounds all the way back in the mag so the bottom is flush with the magazine.
  8. Shot this sow last weekend with my R1 in .30-06. One shot at about 150 yards did the trick. Federal trophy copper 180 grain. Thought I’d share…
  9. My .30-06 R1 is very old, 20" barrel and shoots 165 and 180's really well (1" group max). Federal blue box soft points, Hornady Interlocks shoot the best in 165 or 180 gr. I hunt with copper, and get decent groups with Barnes TTSX and Federal Trophy Copper too. The rifle is not terribly finicky with ammo, but there are definitely ammo's it doesn't like. I found that 150 gr. shoot terrible, no matter what brand. I also have .300wm and .338 R1's and they're all pretty consistent with the .30-06.
  10. Congrats on your purchase. You’ll enjoy that rifle. I bought an R1 .338 win mag in 2019. I’ve hunted with it quite a bit, shot a couple hundred rounds at the range, and clobbered a nice hog with it. They run great, but you need to clean it after shooting and shoot clean, quality ammo out of it. It’s not like an old bolt action you can just let it sit and rust and it’ll still shoot. As an aside, my 15 year old R1 in .30-06 is the most accurate rifle I own. It’s been soaked in rain, dropped in mud, and has over 1,000 shots through it. I would carry that rifle in any situation.
  11. My .300wm and .30-06 prefer heavier bullets, lead ones like fusion, soft points, interbond, etc. in 165 or 180 grains. The copper and Hornady gmx, not as good in any weight. Federal blue box soft points shoot the best in every rifle I own (8 or so).
  12. If you’re positive that the barrel is locked all the way down on the receiver, I would check the overall length of the cartridge and make sure it’s within standard specs. I’ve heard of this happening with 200 grain bullets in .30 caliber cartridges on other rifles. I interchange between .30-06 and .300wm without issue, but typically shoot 165 or 180 grain factory ammo. Now, you said “an older R1”, so it’s very possible the recoil plunger spring is wearing out. My wooden R1 is about 15 years old and I replaced the plunger assembly about 5 years ago after failures to feed with the .30-06. But I’d think it would affect your .308 too. The .308 is very short compared to the .300 though. I’m assuming you’re using .300 wm magazines, since the rounds probably wouldn’t even fit in .308 mags. That’s all I got. ?
  13. If your budget is around $700 and you want a new caliber to shoot, get the barrel. The barrels work great for switching calibers, and if they’re both scoped and sighted in, they will both be at zero when you install it. I just put my .300wm barrel back on. Now I have to go to the range to sight it in. If I had had a scope on it, the zero with the .30-06 barrel would have been very close on the .300. Were it not for an ammo shortage, price gouging, and a big inconvenience for me to go to the range, I’d get more barrels. It's also worth noting that the wood model barrels fit fine on the comfortech stocks. I find myself looking at BAR’s more over the R1. I have a bar shortrac in .308 and it’s a fantastic rifle, very accurate. I do like the new Lupo bolt gun too.
  14. I asked them a couple of years ago and they said they had no plans to. So I ended up just buying the whole rifle. Nice shooter and very accurate. Also, I have a .30-06 and .300 wm barrel for my wooden model but only keep the .30-06 on and haven't shot the .300 in years. I don't like to go to the range to resight it in, but admittedly when I used to swap out the barrels, both zeroed at the same point.
  15. You have to pull out the bolt throw. Just wiggle it while pulling on it and it will come out. Then the bolt won’t be blocked from sliding out the back of the barrel.
  16. The Benelli store on their website should have them. I recently saw the .308 barrel listed there.
  17. I have a 15 year old R1 in .30-06 with wood stock, blued barrel. It has the 20” barrel and is extremely accurate. I also have it in .300 win mag and .338. The .30’s are old and have the crio treated barrels which never change poi even when extremely hot. The .338 is newer with the black barrel and not as accurate. Something changed since the original barrels were made. My point is that the R1 pro looks a lot like the original and I would buy it if I were looking for another .30-06. Given how much Italians like the .30-06, I would bet the entire platform was Originally based on that cartridge. I also have a BAR shortrac in .308 which is very accurate. Both the R1 and the Browning are finicky about ammo, but can be extremely accurate once the right load is had. They both favor heavy bullets for me, seem to dislike the copper stuff. Unfortunately, my socialist State requires me to hunt with copper. Didn’t directly answer your question, but those are my observations shooting the R1’s a lot in the last 15 years.
  18. Thanks. It’s been a ridiculously expensive trial and error process. The Hornady 185 grain gmx’s aren’t terrible either. The 225 grain barnes and trophy copper are all over the paper. The Hornady’s are really pleasant to shoot, but not as tight groups as the barnes 210. I’m not a small guy or recoil sensitive, but maybe the extra recoil on the 225 grainers are just past my shooting ability. Two of my hunting buddies just bought Weatherby Mark V’s in 6.5-300. They are getting really accurate results with the Weatherby ammo in 127 grain barnes LRX. An amazing rifle and cartridge. I hate shooting with them, because the boom and concussion from that rifle with the muzzle brake on is horrific. Lol.
  19. Ok, finally got it dialed in using 210 grain barnes vor-tx ttsx ammo. Shooting sub-moa, so I’m goin to stock up on that ammo. Also, for entertainment purposes, here’s a 150 lb. sow I shot with the .338 R1 at about 150 yards. Back i February. This was using the 200 grain Hornady sst ammo. Needless to say, there was no tracking involved. The shot was clean, quartering away behind the shoulder, so no meat was wasted nor did the overkill bullet obliterate her.
  20. You sure its not the recoil spring in the tube in the buttstock? The spring part appears to be the same for all R1’s, and I can’t believe the recoil spring constant is the same for your .308 as it is for my .338 win mag.
  21. Does it matter that much, since the safety is just a button on the trigger assembly?
  22. I was actually thinking that. Does your R1 have the comfortech stock? My .300 has the wooden stock and recoil with 180’s is quite sharp. My .338 has the comfortech, and it soaks up the recoil some. They are finicky on ammo. If you really want to shoot 180’s (I would), I’d keep trying other stuff. Then go down to 165’s.
  23. That seems unusual, but not impossible. My .300wm and .30-06 R1 barrels love the 180’s in most flavors. Maybe try 200’s, since it’s a moose gun? I’ve also had good success with 165’s, like fusions, blue box, and hornady interbond and interlock. All 3 of my R1 barrels hate copper and other non-toxic bullets however. Once you find the happy load for it, you will be satisfied. It can be an expensive experiment though.
  24. My .300wm is threaded for a muzzle brake, but now I’m entertaining the idea of a supressor on it.
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