Teufelshund

On the subject of these, is it legal to ship a collapsible stock to someone in California? I have someone from there who wants one of mine.

What's a brand new C-stock worth these days? I paid a lot for two of them when I initially bought my two M4s, then found 2 here for a less. So, I have two spares still sitting in the original boxes.

What's a brand new C-stock worth these days? I paid a lot for two of them when I initially bought my two M4s, then found 2 here for a less. So, I have two spares still sitting in the original boxes.

Ditto_____________

LMAO! Glad you guys called him on it...

Thanks Un...you're the best. And I agree with everything you say. Should have mentioned that the iron sights with tritium are for backup only. Fairly improbable scenario needing them...would need to have my primary optic fail, at night, to really need them. But then again, the most probable time I would employ the M4 in anger is at night. Been researching my primary sights for awhile, and since these weapons are so heavy already, have narrowed it down to the Aimpoint T-1/H-1 or a good quality reflex. As you know, weight is an issue for employment or when carrying for long periods of time...cost is not a factor at all, so I welcome your ideas. I've seen a great deal of M4's with the T-1...less with a reflex sight. However, seems a reflex sight would save a few ounces and MAY be more appropriate for a shotgun (more open...less "tube" to look through).

Thanks Un... Just the front and rear part number if it not too much trouble, and the same for the Brownell's part number (did a search there and couldn't find it). And maybe there's some step by step instructions somewhere. Looks pretty straight forward, but as they say, "read the freaking instructions!" Nice car by the way!

Searching the forums, this Meprolite sight seems to be the preferred iron sight for the M4 (if anyone knows of something better, please pipe up...not talking about optics here, just the iron sights). For those who have installed these, what is the model number? I've found ones for the M1S90...they appear to be the same, but want to be sure from someone who's done it. Any instructions on swapping these out too? Thanks much. http://www.amazon.com/Meprolight-Tru-34302-Front-Benelli/dp/B0002INGOC

Here's some pics using my digital scale...as most of you know, Kips tube is about 1/2 the weight of the factory tube. .33 pounds vs. .65 pounds. Also, the C-stock is .05 pounds lighter than the full length stock...not much, but better than being heavier!

[ATTACH]714[/ATTACH] Gents, first thanks for all the great posts here. You've all made some great suggestions for modifications (particularly StrangerDanger, Unobtanium, BigHat, Hookster, to name a few). Just finished the tube install (beautiful, thanks Kip) and C-stock install (thanks HK2000!) as recommended. For those that haven't done more than one of these, the ease of removal varies greatly between one gun and another, so if you get a hard one, its not you! The first tube was very easy...took about 2 minutes. Second one was at least 10 times harder to remove, and after removing it I found out why...at least 10 times more Loctite was put on the threads by the Benelli installer. By the way, out of fear of damaging something, I just wrapped the receiver in a towel and held in my legs, while twisting the tube off with leather gloves. Not the easiest method, but the safest. Anyhow, thanks y'all!

No problem...good info from you in any case. Perhaps I should practice using carrier latch method more...maybe I'm just slow doing it that way.

Since we are being sardonic, I think he said "unload" not "discharge!" And as far as cycling the action goes, yeah, no reason to do it...except for the fact that its faster! Ha. And we already outlined Benelli's technique before you rehashed it again...no one is opposed to doing it that way, including me...its a fine technique. Just trying to help the guy out with an alternative he might like. Try loading and unloading your weapon 50 times in one day (e.g. when conducting speed load drills)...most people get tired of the slower Benelli method very quickly. Besides, the more time spent unloading, the less time you have to practice the important stuff, like loading! And the more practice you get manually working that bolt, the better you will be. And its fun...work the bolt and spit your shells right into your range bag. Anyhow, just one technique. The Benelli manual technique is good as well...and something I do too. Anyhow, is there any reason NOT to cycle the action? Maybe for safe queens. And by the way, it's called the "carrier latch", not "shell catch lever." Sidenote: you can remove the fore-end cap and spring, keep the barrel pointing down, and practice speed loading so that the rounds fall out the end...but that's not that's not the same as loading against spring pressure, so its a bad technique in my opinion.

If anyone has done this, or done it themselves, please provide us with your experience if you can.

Yes, that's the Benelli Manual method. You may already know this, but The FASTEST (and frankly easiest) way to empty is to not use the carrier latch and instead do this: 1) Hold the weapon in your weapon hand (strong hand, or right hand if right handed) with your hand around the pistol grip and index finger on the cartridge drop lever. The buttpad should be under your right armpit. 2) Cant the weapon slightly so you can see the ejection port. 3) Press and HOLD in the cartridge drop lever, and work the bolt with your reaction hand (weak hand, or left hand) using firm, full length strokes. You can unload 9 rounds in less than 3 seconds using this technique. Have fun Crofton!...great choice on the gun. Gets better the more you use it.

Thanks truckcop...good to know.