Teufelshund

On the subject of these, is it legal to ship a collapsible stock to someone in California? I have someone from there who wants one of mine.

What's a brand new C-stock worth these days? I paid a lot for two of them when I initially bought my two M4s, then found 2 here for a less. So, I have two spares still sitting in the original boxes.

What's a brand new C-stock worth these days? I paid a lot for two of them when I initially bought my two M4s, then found 2 here for a less. So, I have two spares still sitting in the original boxes.

Ditto_____________

LMAO! Glad you guys called him on it...

Thanks Un...you're the best. And I agree with everything you say. Should have mentioned that the iron sights with tritium are for backup only. Fairly improbable scenario needing them...would need to have my primary optic fail, at night, to really need them. But then again, the most probable time I would employ the M4 in anger is at night. Been researching my primary sights for awhile, and since these weapons are so heavy already, have narrowed it down to the Aimpoint T-1/H-1 or a good quality reflex. As you know, weight is an issue for employment or when carrying for long periods of time...cost is not a factor at all, so I welcome your ideas. I've seen a great deal of M4's with the T-1...less with a reflex sight. However, seems a reflex sight would save a few ounces and MAY be more appropriate for a shotgun (more open...less "tube" to look through).

Thanks Un... Just the front and rear part number if it not too much trouble, and the same for the Brownell's part number (did a search there and couldn't find it). And maybe there's some step by step instructions somewhere. Looks pretty straight forward, but as they say, "read the freaking instructions!" Nice car by the way!

Searching the forums, this Meprolite sight seems to be the preferred iron sight for the M4 (if anyone knows of something better, please pipe up...not talking about optics here, just the iron sights). For those who have installed these, what is the model number? I've found ones for the M1S90...they appear to be the same, but want to be sure from someone who's done it. Any instructions on swapping these out too? Thanks much. http://www.amazon.com/Meprolight-Tru-34302-Front-Benelli/dp/B0002INGOC

Here's some pics using my digital scale...as most of you know, Kips tube is about 1/2 the weight of the factory tube. .33 pounds vs. .65 pounds. Also, the C-stock is .05 pounds lighter than the full length stock...not much, but better than being heavier!

[ATTACH]714[/ATTACH] Gents, first thanks for all the great posts here. You've all made some great suggestions for modifications (particularly StrangerDanger, Unobtanium, BigHat, Hookster, to name a few). Just finished the tube install (beautiful, thanks Kip) and C-stock install (thanks HK2000!) as recommended. For those that haven't done more than one of these, the ease of removal varies greatly between one gun and another, so if you get a hard one, its not you! The first tube was very easy...took about 2 minutes. Second one was at least 10 times harder to remove, and after removing it I found out why...at least 10 times more Loctite was put on the threads by the Benelli installer. By the way, out of fear of damaging something, I just wrapped the receiver in a towel and held in my legs, while twisting the tube off with leather gloves. Not the easiest method, but the safest. Anyhow, thanks y'all!

No problem...good info from you in any case. Perhaps I should practice using carrier latch method more...maybe I'm just slow doing it that way.

Since we are being sardonic, I think he said "unload" not "discharge!" And as far as cycling the action goes, yeah, no reason to do it...except for the fact that its faster! Ha. And we already outlined Benelli's technique before you rehashed it again...no one is opposed to doing it that way, including me...its a fine technique. Just trying to help the guy out with an alternative he might like. Try loading and unloading your weapon 50 times in one day (e.g. when conducting speed load drills)...most people get tired of the slower Benelli method very quickly. Besides, the more time spent unloading, the less time you have to practice the important stuff, like loading! And the more practice you get manually working that bolt, the better you will be. And its fun...work the bolt and spit your shells right into your range bag. Anyhow, just one technique. The Benelli manual technique is good as well...and something I do too. Anyhow, is there any reason NOT to cycle the action? Maybe for safe queens. And by the way, it's called the "carrier latch", not "shell catch lever." Sidenote: you can remove the fore-end cap and spring, keep the barrel pointing down, and practice speed loading so that the rounds fall out the end...but that's not that's not the same as loading against spring pressure, so its a bad technique in my opinion.

If anyone has done this, or done it themselves, please provide us with your experience if you can.

Yes, that's the Benelli Manual method. You may already know this, but The FASTEST (and frankly easiest) way to empty is to not use the carrier latch and instead do this: 1) Hold the weapon in your weapon hand (strong hand, or right hand if right handed) with your hand around the pistol grip and index finger on the cartridge drop lever. The buttpad should be under your right armpit. 2) Cant the weapon slightly so you can see the ejection port. 3) Press and HOLD in the cartridge drop lever, and work the bolt with your reaction hand (weak hand, or left hand) using firm, full length strokes. You can unload 9 rounds in less than 3 seconds using this technique. Have fun Crofton!...great choice on the gun. Gets better the more you use it.

Thanks truckcop...good to know.

Thanks Un. Yeah, I understand it depends at great deal on the gun (that's why I specifically mentioned M4), and even individual guns. But, before I buy some slugs, it would be great to get some benchrest smoothbore M4 accuracy test data from some hard chargers who may have tested different slug brands themselves, i.e. "I shot consistent ___ inch groups at 100 yards with ___." (And before someone says "training is the most important" yeah, I think we know that! ) In regards to choke recommendations, I was surprised that you made the Modified choke recommendation along with IC. I am absolutely not saying you are wrong...just that everything I've read, seen and heard recommends IC or Cylinder for smoothbore slugs (I am ignoring rifled chokes). For those shooting Brenneke...I have personally spoken to the senior tech rep at Brenneke, who told me that their slugs are most accurate through a Cylinder choke. Haven't called Federal yet...if I hear something different, will post.

Antoine, thanks for the great stock! Great doing business with you...great price, fast, new, perfect. Thanks bub.

Thanks BM4...good info as well. Too uncertain given the info you guys provided...ain't gonna do it, especially since I've discovered the LOP at mid-position is the same as my HK's.

Thanks Tony! That is exactly the kind of intel I was looking for. The factory mid position may be best anyhow...right after I posted this I laid my other weapons down on my work space side by side. The LOP & eye position with the mid position setting is about the same as that for my MR556s and HK416s (.22LR). This helps when moving from one weapon to another. Thanks very much for your great post!

Gents, been doing some research on smooth bore slugs. Looking for the most accurate slug available for non-rifled barrels (and since the gun makes a difference, I should point out that this will be for my M4's). This Brenneke round looks promising. Has the tightest advertised group I've been able to find listed (for non-sabot for smoothbore rounds). I know that doesn't mean it will shoot what they claim, but its a starting point. Some of the other slug manufacturers don't list any specs at all. It has some good reviews for accuracy and barrier-blind capability, and also is fairly clean/little lead fouling because of the painted surface And thanks for all the great info you guys have been putting out. Huge help with my M4 mods. "BRENNEKE SPECIAL FORCES SHORT MAGNUM Due to overwhelming demand for a shotgun slug offering maximum penetration and stopping power, BrennekeUSA is offering the Special Forces Short Magnum, a 12 gauge, 2-3/4-inch round, loaded with a massive 1-1/4-ounce slug. Based on Brenneke’s highly popular Heavy Field Short Magnum that generates muzzle energy greater than many centerfire rifle cartridges. The SFSM is capable of five-shot groups as tight as 2.95 inches at 100 yards, 1.4 inches at 50 yards. For more information, contact brennekeusa.com" http://www.brennekeusa.com/cms/special_forces_short_magnum.html

Not quite...of the 3 major religions, Christianity predates Islam by over 600 years. And before Mohammad and his followers started killing or forcing the conversion of their neighbor "infidels", the predominant religion of the entire Middle East and North Africa was either Christian or Jewish.

Thanks for posting all this info fellas. Wrote Surefire today about trying to get them to produce a hand guard for the M4 like they have for the M1/M2. I doubt I'll hear anything back...of course, they probably won't do it because they'd be competing with their own M4 product.

Has nothing to do with "tacticool", as you say. Its for the obvious ergonomic reasons as I stated...having the same eye relief/ length of pull, etc. with or without body armor. Can one manage without doing so? Of course. Would an extra adjustment make for better employment of the weapon? Of course as well. And yeah, I think we all understand that we need to be careful when making such modifications!

Gents, looking at my M-4 C-stock, it appears that it would be very simple to use a dremel tool to add anther stock position indent on the tube. Lots of smart guys here...anyone tried that? Would be handy for small adjustments, like when wearing body armor.

Has anyone tried to add an additional adjustment point to the collapsible stock? It would be nice to have a position one inch or shorter than the mid-point on those occassions where you are wearing body armor. Looks like you could just notch the metal to add an additional slot for the stock to set on.