Tlon

Very cool. Thanks.

So, does the coating add material to the pistons? Does it affect their performance?

Interesting. I've had good luck with Froglube, but I've just started storing my firearms in a safe that's in a less than climate controlled environment (with a goldenrod and two ever-dry units) and have been wondering how FL would protect things. I've seen a number of rust tests on FL. Here's the latest I've come across: http://www.boomershooter.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11116-gun-oil-corrosion-test/ Obviously doesn't trump your own experience but I definitely find the lube and cleaning properties to be great.

I've used it for about a year on my Sig P226 and it's been great. I also used it on my M4, which I've only fired about 50 shells through. It worked flawlessly. I'm a little concerned about the corrosion issue since my safe is in a relatively humid place (and seems to more humid inside than outside, even with a rod and drying agents). Not sure how it will work.

Not sure about the price, but ATI items can usually be bought with a pretty hefty discount. For what it's worth, I had a Mossberg with an ATI scorpion grip and buttstock that worked well. During a combat shotgun class in which we shot about 100 full power slugs, I thought it was pretty comfortable. No bruising, no pain. Someone else in the class had a M4 with the factory collapsible stock and he was in pain by the end of the class and told me his shoulder pocket was black and blue the next day. Might be an option for those who want some recoil absorption, and it sounds like the stock will move more than the three FCS positions, which could be pretty cool. Not digging the forearm, though.

The NRA Press conference yesterday pretty much did that. If anyone was on the fence, they fell off. I almost wanted to turn my guns in after listening to that. Talk about tone deaf and impossibly out of touch with everything that is going on right now. The only hope, I think, is that gun legislation is written quickly and there is a push to rush it through. My guess is that enough people in the House will resist a quick rush to a solution.

I sent them an email yesterday. I spoke with Mitch a couple of weeks ago and he mentioned this was coming, so I'm very excited to see the new grip. Definitely major kudos to Mitch and Mesa for doing this.

Benelliwerks, The scraper and guide rod ideas are exactly what I was looking for. thanks!!! I actually have a few black flat polymer scrapers (for marketing purposes :-) ), so I'll try that next time. The guide rod looks like it'd be perfect for the spring. I'd just been squishing it down one coil at a time. Brilliant! Is there anywhere in particular these can be purchased? I'd also be interested in purchasing your anatomy manual, if it's still available. How do I do that. I have the Marine Corps manual and have read it, but it didn't help with the questions I'd asked I think. There was nothing about the guide rod idea, for example.

Thanks, Steve. Much appreciated.

As I mentioned in another forum post, I'm new to the Benelli world, and frankly new to the semi-auto shotgun world. I have a M4, which I have not yet shot, but I've field stripped, cleaned, lubed, and put back to together. I just wanted to confirm that the pistons are supposed to slide up and down freely? That is, if I turn the gun from up and down from end to end the pistons will slide up and down and rattle a bit. I'm assuming this is normal, but I just wanted to check before I took it out to shoot. Also just curious if there is a trick/easy way to get the bolt arm to line up with the recoil spring when putting it back together. Seems like it took me a bunch of wiggling to get it to get into the socket. I tried both putting the bolt in first and putting the trigger assembly in first. Neither seemed any better. And speaking of springs, is there a trick to getting the magazine tube back into the tube? It was quite a bear to get in there after taking it apart and cleaning out the tube. I used snap ring pliers to remove it and put it back together, but just wondering if there is a good approach here as well. Sorry for newbie questions. Just wondering if I'm missing some tricks to make things easier to get together.

Thanks, Hookster. I wrote to Mesa. It seems like they responded to a number of complaints (grip, loosening, etc.), if not by changing their product (I imagine an expensive proposition), at least with some workarounds. If I could file it down a bit without making it look like I took a cheese grater to it, I think it'd be fine. Definitely like the shorter LOP. It's too bad the factory stock just can't be cut down. If anyone's interested, I can post whatever they respond with, if anything.

Thanks, Paladinjme. I really appreciate the quick transaction!

Thanks, John. Much appreciated. From what I can tell, the Urbino stock grip is smaller. Is that the plastic as well as the rubber? Is there any play or looseness in the rubber when putting the new grip on? Does it line up well or did you have to do any cutting or fitting? Did you glue it on or does it just hold as is? Any chance you might be able to share a photo? Sorry for so many questions. I really appreciate any help. Edit: I was able to locate an old thread in which a few folks said they replaced the stock and gave some basic instructions (just wiggle it off?).

Hi Folks, I just cleaned, lubed, and put together my new Benelli M4. I also installed a Mesa Tactical Urbino stock so I could get the shorter LOP. The problem I'm having is the place where the trigger guard meets the grip. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1779[/ATTACH] The gap between the back of the trigger guard is much larger than the factory stock, but the real problem is that it's also wider and sharper so it's actually annoying to hold my finger on the trigger. Is this normal for the Urbino stocks? If so, can this be ground down without turning the plastic some odd color (what would be the best way to do that?) Also curious about the pistol grip. I've seen that a few people have replaced the Urbino grip with the factory stock grip. Just curious how that's done. It doesn't seem like the parts come off easily. Any help would be much appreciated.

okay, got it. Definitely different than loctite. Does the anti-seize just make it easier to remove them for cleaning? I've heard that some people don't like replaceable chokes because they can come undone. Does this increase the problem (or is that really not a problem and just an internet anxiety)?

Thanks, Hookster! Sorry for the dumb question, but is choke tube anti seize like (or the same as) loctite? And, do you mean put it on the ARGO threads or actually on the choke tube? This is the first shotgun I've owned with a changeable choke, so definitely new territory for me.

Thanks all. I definitely plan to clean and lube it (though it sounds like it will run fine with some sand and spit). Just unfamiliar with the ARGO system so I wasn't quite sure what to do there. I suppose I'll fully degrease it with alcohol and leave it at that. The rest I'll lube well.

Hi Folks, I've been following the the forum for a bit, and having a lot fun learning about Benellis. I had a question about the initial cleaning and lubrication, particularly the pistons and o-rings. On the initial cleaning do I need to take apart the pistons and clean inside there? Trigger group? And, do the o-rings need to be lubed at all? I've seen different opinions on this and the manual just says the gas system must not be lubricated. Any best practices here? In case anyone is interested, I got a NIB M4 from Dick's Sporting Goods at a pretty good price. Right now, they're $100 off the $1699 list price and then if you open a Dick's Charge card you can save another 10%. The price is $1439 plus tax out the door. Many thanks!

Many thanks.

That is amazing. Can I ask what the short Ti tube adds? Any additional shots or is it a weight reduction (or both)? Was the initial 15mo wait just for the M4 to get to the dealer and then the other 9mo for the clearance? Really amazing looking weapon system you have there.