M2_shootr
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Posts
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Posts posted by M2_shootr
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Wowzzzzzers
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On 10/26/2023 at 4:18 PM, nyc71 said:
Thanks, ironically neither one looks like the picture. I replaced the optics on both, Cerakote the Titanium, replaced the Briley handguard, & Mesa Tactical stock.
Ha……ain’t that the way it goes? Post up some new pics
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On 10/27/2023 at 5:32 PM, Tc110813 said:
I'm assuming it would be illegal for me to buy such an item if I live in the US from Canada? Otherwise I feel like everyone would be doing it lol. That's crazy...
No. It’s that most Canadian dealers don’t want to mess with the import BS.
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Lookin good…..
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What needs done?
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On 10/10/2023 at 9:23 PM, Benellirook said:
I'm going to have to try to clean it out again and will look for the burs and shiny spots you mentioned. So frustrating that this happened.
Any update on this?
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I once had an old, abused and neglected Mossberg a friend gave me. It was smooth as butter,
Then I cleaned it. All that gunk is why it was so smooth.
Disassemble and look for burs and shiney spots.
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20 hours ago, cas said:
This is the standard line in the gun world. Repeated often. But take and use this information sparingly. It may very well apply to some types of springs of a certain level of quality, but people read it and take it as gospel about all of them.
From my line of work, I've learned it's far from true.
Ok….then educate me
Ive seen spring manufacturers state a coil spring, under pressure, come loose some strength over a long period of time. But is this 5% in ten years? How much is some? How long is a period of time? They all so state loss of tension due to cycles
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^^^ +1
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Thanks
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21 hours ago, SuzukiGS750EZ said:
I don’t have a vast amount of shotguns I’ve got so I’m curious if the trigger can be improved on or if that’s just how it is.
Yes……FFT, Briley, and even the Geissele hammer improve the trigger over the stock bits
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I’m really not sure.
no real way to understand when a spring will fail. Over the years, with different shotguns, the mag tube springs are all I remember changing -
I wonder how it even got through QC. This one might have been skipped over, it certainly wasn’t test fired
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I have a Geissele hammer along with FFT trigger and sear. Trigger pull was reduced by 1 pound 13 ounces.
I’ll admit, my original intent of replacing those parts were due to chasing 922 total. The Gazeley hammer was used because of earlier FFT hammers being deformed with use. I’m not sure if the FFT hammers are still an issue but the guys Isley hammers are, as far as I know, no longer produced
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Trigger Springs, at least coil springs in this case, loose tension from cyclic rate, not compression.
Even in the Marine manual, I’ve never seen a replacement time change on springs
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What ^^^ he said…..
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4 minutes ago, SOCOMguy said:
Too late now, but for future reference, MAPP torch is quite a bit hotter than propane, have to use caution with MAPP on thin or delicate parts.
Joe
Yep……would not have been my choice at all
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6 hours ago, RxArms said:
Ya some discolouration on the annodizing looks like.
cerekote is your best option. If you do get it painted make sure to request a low gloss/matte sheen of your colour choice. In my view you have the option of just painting the receiver black, or painting the whole gun.
If you want to keep costs down I would start with just the receiver and see how you like it. The Benelli m4 Is made up of several shades of black and dark greys, so a black painted receiver might just fit in nicely I think.
This pic I attached. The bolt release tab and the charge handle are cerakote low gloss/matte graphite black. You can see the comparison to the receiver colour. I hope this is helpful!
Then there is what I call “Air Force blue”
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Great to hear you got it off…..they can be a pain
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On 9/19/2023 at 3:56 PM, M2_shootr said:
sorry, I just now saw this. Are used to Forstner bit in a drill press. The stock body was supported by an epoxy to sit nicely in the vise.
Once it was poured out, I switch to the other side and did the same. And then you some JB Weld and filled the cavity. The cups were then pressed into position
Damnit……typos
stock body was supported by an epoxy bed. I made to support it in the device while drilling.
Once the left side was drilled out, I flipped the stock and repositioned to drill the other side.
and then use some JB weld to fill in the cavity and to seat the QD cups
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You could use a riser for a Sig carbine stock. would need to install some captive nuts though
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As Steve mentioned, drawl the shirt, Forstner bit and install a Noveske QD
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sorry, I just now saw this. Are used to Forstner bit in a drill press. The stock body was supported by an epoxy to sit nicely in the vise.
Once it was poured out, I switch to the other side and did the same. And then you some JB Weld and filled the cavity. The cups were then pressed into position
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Not all have removable chokes. Are you sure your barrel does not have a fixed choke?
Looking to buy M4 collapsible stock
in Benelli
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I’m a fan of your work……for the m4 as well as x95