Evolution
-
Posts
587 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
26
Posts posted by Evolution
-
-
It's possible that those instructions as regards to chokes and shooting slugs "for all Benellis" are only related to those that are made for the civilian market and do not pertain to the military M1014.
Someone here posted a link to the manual for the M1014 awhile back and I wonder if there is anything in there pertaining to shooting slugs through them.
It's my understanding that the end bore diameter is a modified choke size.
-
I'm fully aware that M4's made for the civilian market use have choke insert barrels. It is the military model barrels that do not have an insert choke barrel.
That is what I said. I made no reference to civilian M4 barrels not having an insert choke.
I know that they do.
I also wondered aloud if they possibly don't preclude the use of slugs in the MILITARY barrels BECAUSE they are not insert choke barrels.
The M1014 barrel is not made to accept an insert choke.
-
My my....such strong emotion. I think that you should check your facts, the military model M4 which is known as the M1014 does not have an insert choke in the barrels.
-
1
-
-
I was thinking, maybe they don't preclude the use of slugs in the military barrels because it's not an insert choke barrel like the regular M4 barrels are.
Could it be that their thinking is you could blow out the choke insert with too much constriction?
-
Yeah...Iv'e thought about this from time to time also. I don't have a military barreled M4 but, do they include a warning with those so equipped guns that it is not safe to shoot slugs with them?
From my understanding those military heavy walled barrels are made as modified choke.
As for me, I use an IC choke in mine for both slugs and buck. I tested accuracy at 25 yds with both a Mod and IC choke with the slugs I use and noticed no difference in accuracy from the bench at that distance.
So....I just go with what they recommend.
-
One thing to be aware of if you replace the 5 rnd mag tube with a seven. That is that you will need to replace two more of the OEM Benelli parts with US made parts to stay 922R compliant. A total of three parts must be replaced with US made parts, the 7 rnd mag tube can count for one of them.
Mag follower, trigger, hammer, trigger housing. are a few others to pick from. There is a complete list of elidgable parts here; https://freedomfightertactical.com/pages/922r-faq
The IWC mount is a good one, I use it and I think it's the only one available for the M4 at this time. It's made for the Surefire Scout series of lights and keeps a very low profile mounting them. IDK how other lights can be mounted on it with the same results.
You can screw a short PIC rail onto the mounting boss and then attach a different type of light to it using a PIC rail clamp but, thats more bits and pieces and you won't get the benefit that you do mounting a Scout light directly to thr boss.
As for a shell in the chamber, I don't ever do it. I keep one ghost loaded. If I don't have time to rack one intp the chamber if something goes bump in the night well, I guess I'll just be dead.?
-
As usual, outstanding job on the tutorial....I read thru the whole thing even though my M4 came with the correct recoil tube installed for the collapsable stock..
-
Nice work...definitely not for the faint of heart. I was admiring the Vickers sling that is on the H20 in your pics and figured out that the pattern is Kryptek Typhon and thought one of those would compliment my H20.
Turns out that BFG is phasing out that pattern and the padded portion of the Vickers sling is no longer available in Kryptek Typhon. Too bad about that because I think it's a very cool pattern suited well to either a black or silver gun.
But at least I was able to purchase an unpadded version complete with the silver triglides!
-
4 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
I almost never use the constant on feature of these lights. You should be moving, briefly illuminating the area, then back to off. Move and repeat.
Good point. Safer to use the momentary function when in area clearing mode, I suppose. Do you know if all the models of the SF tape switches have the momentary function, or just some of them?. It's not clear on their website.
-
Another question for ya..is it necessary to trim the tailcap shroud off the 600DF with the IWC mount?
-
35 minutes ago, Jolly Roger said:
Yep, when you have all three in front of you its a no-brainer. The poly one is...well its plastic. The OEM aluminum one is rough and crudely cast...The A&S is high quality and precision made. It puts both the plastic and oem aluminum guards to shame.
******************************************************************************
Plastic guard kinda reminds me of Glock (and thats being kind)
OEM aluminum guard reminds me of Hi-Point
A&S guard = Full custom 1911
...and Im not a A&S fanboy, just calling it as I see it. Honestly I dont care for the built in ramp on the A&S guard, I think its useless and looks dumb...
Well said. One major standout I like about them is that it's machined from a piece of billet aluminum and every single edge on the piece is broken- a very nice touch. Then there's the superior finish and blah, blah, blah...?
-
9 minutes ago, les_garten said:
Was there a problem after the first hundred?
Not that I know of Les. But IIRC, there was some whining about something later on in production but I think that was more attributable to "operator error."?
-
Depends on your point of view. As for myself, when it comes to critical firearms parts, such as parts that bear stresses, or contain other critical moving parts with pins and springs, I don't like polymer. But, obviously millions and millions of people do.
I wouldn't own a polymer framed handgun, but then, I don't like striker fired guns either.? They probably switched the M4 to polymer trigger housings because it's cheaper and faster to produce.
I have one of the first hundred of the A&S trigger housings produced for the M4. It's a superior product to either of the OEM housings.
-
Ha ha....you need a little finesse for this job.... not use a 90lb jackhammer to crack an egg.?
-
I have a FFT NP3 plated tube. Back when I bought my H20 model they were the only people providing that finish. It has been fine all these years.
CC makes a superlative product according to reviews but, you'll have to wait out a few moons before you get it.
-
All you needed to do (and it sounds like you still should) was carefully sand or file off some material from the curved portion of the stock that butts up to the rear and follows the contour of the trigger guard. The stocks are a moulded item and as such more often than not, they require a little fitting in this area in order to gain enough clearance room for the trigger housing to drop in. Rounds down range won't help the situation.
-
1
-
-
My forward sling plate never had any slop in it.Once the snap ring is installed in front of it there was no play fore and aft, it was tight to the point of having drag when I rotated it the eigth inch or so that is allowed due to the barrel cutout.
-
23 hours ago, Scout_21 said:
Instead of the Hayl rail and its set screws I'd wait for the Briley m4 handguard that will be coming out soon
http://dissidentarms.com/index.php/product/benelli-m4-m-lok-handguard-briley/
Just check out the hayl rail instructional video... I don't want to keep putting in and removing set screws when I want to clean
I'm not a fan of any of the aftermarket hand guards that have ever been made so far but, having to remove and reinstall tiny set screws any time you want to have a look at something or clean it, is a deal breaker for me all by itself.
-
4 hours ago, tekguy said:
I'm not so worried about the trigger safety. I'm more worried about drop safety. I have no kids or people in and out of my house. I keep my striker fired weapons ready to fire and my 1911 cocked and locked condition 1 but I also know those have at least some type of drop safety. Does anyone know if the M4 is "drop safe"? I would think that being a US Marine weapon, bouncing around in Humvees that they would be drop safe to an extent but I dont know the mechanics of the M4 and I don't want to be That guy. But now that I have the tube and spring coming it really does not matter as much to me, as I can keep 6 in the tube and one on the carrier.
The M4 is not "drop safe". When the safety is engaged, it merely blocks the trigger from being pulled. The sear or the hammer for that matter, is not captured in any way to prevent the hammer from falling should the gun receive a violent blow. I never keep a round chambered, I maintain a full magazine and one on the shell carrier when in home defense mode.
-
2
-
-
FYI...you might want to keep the mag spring as a spare, it's supposed to be the same as they use for the 7 round mag.
-
4 hours ago, Sigma05 said:
What Limbsaver butt pad did you order to go on the field stock? Did you get the Noveske adapter setup, or one that was directly compatible with the field stock? Have you had a chance to try it out?
This is the butt pad, Same one as for the fixed pistol grip stock. http://www.nokick.com/Precision_Fit_Pad_Benelli_M1_Tactical_p/ls-10403.htm
The Noveske item is the sling plate that replaces the OEM sling plate in the stocks. On one side of it is a QD swivel receptacle.
https://www.noveske.com/products/benelli-qd-sling-plate
I put all the parts on the field stock that Iv'e had for a while and....I just can't get used to that thing. The grip area for the hand just cocks my wrist in an uncomfortable angle for me when my finger is on the trigger. Iv'e given up on thoughts of using the thing. The fixed pistol grip stock is for me.....
-
I think the military wanted a barrel without a screw in choke tube just because the don't want to deal with something like that in combat conditions.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, Nickthedog said:
Do Benelli shotguns come oiled & lubricated from the factory? Or do I have to totally disassemble it & do it?
IMO, any brand new out of the box firearm should be broken down to at least it's major groups and thoroughly lubed before it's taken out and shot for the very first time.
Iv'e seen some guns being pretty dry NIB from the factory.
-
I wonder which is louder inside a house, a short barreled AR or a 12ga? My money is on the AR. Piercing noise those things make.
New Benelli M4, Refuses to fully load 7 rounds
in Benelli
Posted
The length of the shell is actually derived from the measurement of it before it is crimped down or rolled over the load.
Since the shell has to be fully expanded and cylindrical to allow the wads and shot column to pass through without any excessive pressure peaks, the crimped section (whether rolled or petaled/folded) has to be completely cylindrical.
Thus the chamber length is the actual “measurement” of an “Uncrimped” shellcase. ( actually, the chamber is fractionally longer than the factory made shell case)
I think that the reason some people have trouble fitting 7 in the mag tube has to do with the variance in the length of the springs, and how many coils each spring has. That, coupled with the variance in the length of the shells from maker to maker can tolerance stack.
They are not all made to exactly the same length, the length can vary from spring to spring.
I highly doubt that you can did any damage as you say, trying to force that 7th round in.
You could buy a couple springs, or clip a coil or two off of your existing spring and try that.
I'm not a fan of the idea to remove the mag spring retainer as a possible solution.